keeping mold hot ?

[oneokie]

Am trying to make good boolits with a Lee single cavity mold. Have tried all the things mentioned here except the use of a hot plate.
Today the wind was about 30 mph across the pot/mold, wrinkled noses on boolits. Pot is on highest setting temp wise. Other than using a hot plate, do I need to try my casting on days that the wind is not blowing as much? Move everything inside?
Am open to any and all suggestions.

[dromia]

Make a wind shield?

Move inside?

Turn the pot up?

Cast faster?

Dip the mould in the melt before pouring each boolit?

Combinations of these and other suggestions, find one that keeps the mould warmer between pours, seems to me I'd want to be inside where the ambient temp was higher.

What's your alloy temp in the pot? If you drop some lube in does it ignite after a few seconds?

[corey012778]

I have to cast out doors. (better half orders) I found a place that the house blocks the wind on one side of me and a line of pines block me on the other. but yesterday did not matter. come from the directions that is not covered.

if you can move it indoors.

[bigbird1]

I do it in the garage and keep the doors open a little:-D

[bullshot]

I also cast in the garage with the door open about two feet. I also put a fan behind me to blow across the lead pot and out the door.

[44man]

I have a garage window behind my bench and strap a cheap fan over it to blow the flux smoke out. I don't worry about the lead itself.
You will never make good boolits with wind blowing on the mold. The temp changes too fast between boolits. Why not build a 3 sided box around your casting spot? Something you can move around, fold up and put away. Just need to anchor it against the wind when in use.

[wiljen]

+1 on the garage and fan setup. Even in the garage, I use a hotplate to pre-heat my molds.

[pumpguy]

You might also try cleaning the mold. If it has any oil or other contaminant in it, it will wrinkle up your boolits.

[38 Super Auto]

I added a hot plate to my setup a few months ago. I couldn't find a used one, so I got a new GE at WallyWorld for $18. I use it to preheat ingots and my mold. It alloys me to replenish the pot as I am casting. I drop 1 or 2 lb. ingots in as the lead level drops in the pot.

On high, it's hot enough to melt lead. I keep it just under the melting point. It insures that the ingots are completely dry when I add them to pot.

[dmftoy1]

Ok, here's a stupid question . . .how do you know when it's "done" when using a hotplate? With the Lee molds they have you dip corner for a few seconds . .can you "overheat" a mold on a hotplate? (I'm guessing yes)

[jonk]

Never had that problem with a single cavity; with the 6 cavity yes. Even pre-heating on a hotplate often doesn't do it and need to use the propane torch. If you are sure it is a temperature problem I'd say that your set up, not the equipment is to blame- too much heat lost to wind. A wind break should do the job I'd think.

[VTDW]

Ok, here's a stupid question . . .how do you know when it's "done" when using a hotplate? With the Lee molds they have you dip corner for a few seconds . .can you "overheat" a mold on a hotplate? (I'm guessing yes)

Yes you can but what does it matter? You just wait for the mold and lead in the cavities to cool. Beats the heck out of casting too cold. Besides, you can adjust the heat on a hot-plate.

Dave

[cbrick]

I also put a fan behind me to blow across the lead pot and out the door.

The fastest and the easiest method of oxidizing your alloy is to blow air accross the top of the pot. Oxygen in contact with the melt is what oxidizes the alloy, the more air in contact with the melt the faster the oxidation.

Rick