Ladle pour vs pot pour

[pwdr_burn]

Hello ALL,
I recently bought a used Lyman mould from Ebay #31141 and it came to me with some burrs. After carefully removing them (under magnifying lenses) I started to pour some bullets. I poured two different moulds to compare one to another. One was a new #311291 the other the used #31141 (not the 311041) mould. I am pouring wheel weight material out of a Lee pot.
When I pour from the pot into the #311291 mould the bullets come out great. When I pour into the #31141 mould the bullets dont fill properly and I had some flash out issues. At first I thought the mould ruined but gave pouring from a ladle a try. IT WORKED to my supersize! Bullets filled out fine and no flash issues. I thought maybe it was a temperature issue ( I had the setting around 8-9) so I lowered it to around 5-6. The same issue occurred.

Does any one have an explanation for this?

[rsrocket1]

The speed of the liquid coming out of the spout, whether ladle or pot, is based on the pressure of the liquid behind the opening. If you are using the ladle that looks like 3/4 of a ball with a spout, the weight of the lead behind the spout is a lot less than that which is behind (above) the spout on the pot.

I have a feeling that if you adjust the pot screw, you can match the flow rate and pressure of the Lee pot to that of the ladle and get good fill out and no flashing (I assume you mean vent line flashing and not "fins" which is due to not closing the mold properly). But, if the ladle works well for you and you are happy with the speed of your production, go for it.

[country gent]

Experimenting tells alot with diffrent moulds. SOme like to be angled to the stream some up against the spout some dribbled down on side of the sprue plate some like a full fast stream. Several things to look for are 1) blocks closing comletely look for light between blocks when closed with same tension as casting. 2) alighnment pins not in a bind or set to long. 3) dirt or build up on faces look very carefully around pins and holes sockets for pins. 4) sprue plate is free and not binding on stop pin. 5) Check handles to insure free easy movement and correct alighnment. There are several little tricks to consistency. Do everything the same way (as the mould likes). Experimenting with lloies can make a big diffrence, Alloies rich in tin tend to flash fin faster than others. Try diffrent techniques to see what helps. Steve Brooks mould site recomends a couple light taps on the mould hande block to insure completly closed moulds. I use this also. Set blocks on a flat surface or rail when closing. I use the edge of the paint pant I drop bullets into. This gives some pre alighnment to blocks when closing and helps guide pins into sockets saving wear. Cut sprue with a solid even push of the whacker I use a small plastic cap hammer for this, Its easier to get the Push type blow and the shape of the hammers head allows me to hook the sprue plate to close it. As to finning flash high heat high mould temps high tin contents can all contribute to this. Vent lines that are deep or been reworked or warped blocks also.

[frnkeore]

The speed of the liquid coming out of the spout, whether ladle or pot, is based on the pressure of the liquid behind the opening. If you are using the ladle that looks like 3/4 of a ball with a spout, the weight of the lead behind the spout is a lot less than that which is behind (above) the spout on the pot.

I have a feeling that if you adjust the pot screw, you can match the flow rate and pressure of the Lee pot to that of the ladle and get good fill out and no flashing (I assume you mean vent line flashing and not "fins" which is due to not closing the mold properly). But, if the ladle works well for you and you are happy with the speed of your production, go for it.

I second this. If you have the 20# pot, you can adjust it. If you have the 10# pot, it's much harder. I've found that if you take the RH screw out of the wire handle, it will slow the pour and if you hone your technic, it will cure it. I used the 10# pot for 30 years, until I got my 20# three years ago. They are the best, you can also ladle out of them.

If they are fining with pressure pouring, back your temp off, until it just quits but, keep your casting speed constant.

Frank

[pwdr_burn]

Thanks for the advise I have recently recast-ed and tried different temperatures without any luck. I held the mould just below the spout on the pot and this worked well. I was able to make quite a few boolits with this technique.

[bangerjim]

Adjust your flow rate in the pot.

If you really want to get it to work, use pressure casting.....put the pot spigot right down in the sprue. Works ever time for me on those few "tricky" molds I have. Not needed on every one of my molds but it works 100% for all of them. Perfect fill due to the lead head pressure forcing it down and into every nook and cranny of the cavities.

banger

[DrCaveman]

Ladle has been working great for me with a few moulds, better than bottom pour ever did

Tilt the mould about 45*, put the ladle nipple into the sprue divot, tilt them flat together. After about a half second, tilt back to 45* and move on to the next cavity, repeat. I have almost no sprue puddle, perfect fillout, and wait time is reduced by about 5 seconds before i can drop the boolits. Best part is that the mould stays at temp the whole time

I should have tried ladle pouring much earlier in my casting life

[gwpercle]

The truth is, no one way, method or trick works for every mould. You have to cast with them , try this or that until you find what works with that mould. Some days what worked yesterday doesn't work today. After a few years, when you've paid your dues you still wont have all the answers.
Sort of like women...just when you think you've got them all figured out, they do something unexpected.
I will tell you this, I cast with 1 and 2 cavity moulds and have discovered a open top pot and Lyman ladle, with the little side spout, give me the best results.
Gary

[TXGunNut]

The truth is, no one way, method or trick works for every mould. You have to cast with them , try this or that until you find what works with that mould. Some days what worked yesterday doesn't work today. After a few years, when you've paid your dues you still wont have all the answers.
Sort of like women...just when you think you've got them all figured out, they do something unexpected.
I will tell you this, I cast with 1 and 2 cavity moulds and have discovered a open top pot and Lyman ladle, with the little side spout, give me the best results.
Gary

Exactly! Early in my casting career I noticed some of my Lyman moulds weren't too impressed when I added a bottom pour pot to my casting equipment ensemble. I can't explain it but can only surmise that old school designs have old school ways. That's something I can understand, lol.

[gwpercle]

Exactly! Early in my casting career I noticed some of my Lyman moulds weren't too impressed when I added a bottom pour pot to my casting equipment ensemble. I can't explain it but can only surmise that old school designs have old school ways. That's something I can understand, lol.

Not sure if it's the design or what, I find the Lee moulds, these are new designs, are just as temperamental as the old Lymans, new Lymans and the one RCBS mould I have...just seems to me like each mould has it's on way and it's up to us to discover what they like....I have discovered some like to be filled front hole to back and another mould likes it to go back to front...I have no answer to that! should be all the same! None of my single and double cavity moulds liked that new bottom pour pot I bought for them.....they just refused to accept it....had to go back to the old Lyman ladle, they just loved it to death. The bottom pour just sits there, all lonely, nobody to play with.
Gary

[TXGunNut]

Buy some 6-cav Lee or 4-5 cav NOE moulds for that bottom pour, can assure you they play well together. ;-)