Bedding revolver grips?

[wonderwolf]

I have a Charter arms .44 special I've been working up loads on. I recently got a set of grips from one of the overseas sellers on ebay that offer some VERY nice grips for most major mfg guns at a great price. Anyways after my last range session of only 40 rounds I've noticed a crack starting at what could be a natural break point in the wood. I'm thinking relieve the inside of the grips all the way down the spine and sides and bed with acraglas? and gently repair the crack with acraglas as well? maybe even a brass pin?

Thoughts? 140972 140973

[Petrol & Powder]

If it is close to breaking off, I would suggest separating the loose piece and using a little epoxy to re-attach it. Place a small section of wax paper between the grip & frame, re-attach the grip and clamp with surgical tubing. The repair will likely be stronger than the original.

[jcren]

I had a set of pearl grips for my wife's 38 that had slop in the inleting. Coated frame with Vaseline and filled gaps one side at a time. Snug enough to have to wiggle them off.

[nicholst55]

I have a Charter arms .44 special I've been working up loads on. I recently got a set of grips from one of the overseas sellers on ebay that offer some VERY nice grips for most major mfg guns at a great price. Anyways after my last range session of only 40 rounds I've noticed a crack starting at what could be a natural break point in the wood. I'm thinking relieve the inside of the grips all the way down the spine and sides and bed with acraglas? and gently repair the crack with acraglas as well? maybe even a brass pin?

Thoughts? 140972 140973

I think that you could easily repair your grips with Acraglas. I would follow P&P's advice, and allow that repair to fully cure, and then bed the entire grip to the grip frame. Follow standard precautions, and apply release agent twice to the grip frame. It shouldn't take more than about a tablespoon of Acraglas (I'd use the Gel for this application) to do the job.

[country gent]

Another area to be sure of is most revolvers grip frames have opening directly into the lock work. Be double sure to have them all pugged off with tape or clay securly so no epoxy can migrate into action tying it up. Double coat everything with release agent. rough up grips inletting and maybe remove a little to make room for epoxy. If 2 piece grips precautiions need to be taken not to glue the halves together also.

[bedbugbilly]

Nice looking set of grips. I've looked at some on flea bay and they do offer some great looking grips.

As a former "cabinet maker" (I owned a custom cabinet shop/millwork shop) the one thing that I wonder about these grips that are sold is just how tight of a control they have on moisture content of the wood when worked? And, many of the more exotic "tropical wood species" have their own characteristics that sometimes are a little unique over the species we are used to working with here (i.e. walnut, cherry, oak, etc). All that said though, a lot of people buy 'em, like 'em and use 'em and I'm not "knocking them" . . . just saying that such things as seasoning checks, splits, etc. could develop due to the nature of the species.

Petrol & Powder gives a good suggestion as far as repair. If they fit the frame well (as far as the back of the grip to the grip frame) then epoxy should work just fine and it should be stronger than ever. The biggest problem will be if you can get the split that is starting "spread" enough to get the epoxy worked in so there is a layer of it "in" the crack rather than "on" the crack. If you can't, it may be necessary to repair it from the "inside" with epoxy or similar. If a small surface crack is still evident after repair, rub a little "filler" (the same shade - as is used to cover finish nails in trip work) or even a little beeswax worked in. You may know it's there but 99.9% won't. Good luck!

As an "after thought" . . check and make sure there is not something putting pressure on the grip at that point that may be contributing to the split. Those look like they "wrap" the frame (I'm assuming 2 piece) so is there any area "pressing" against the frame or at the upper grip frame "cut" that combined with the tightened grip and "shock" of shooting is putting undo pressure on that area? If there is, relieve that area of the grip so it doesn't have pressure on it from the frame.

[44man]

I have fixed hundreds of cracked stocks with Accra Glass and I defy anyone to find it. Good stuff and will never break. I spread the crack without breaking it more and stuff the epoxy in HARD. Put wax or release on parts where it could stick and wrap tight. Tubing works but hard to find so I use inner tube strips.
Yes, you might have to refinish after.
The stuff has even worked on oily, exotic woods but cleaning with Acetone will give a better BITE.
I use threaded brass rods in some guns but NEVER where they will show. On those rifles with tang splits I use steel rods into the stock and relieve a little so the tang does not impact wood again.

[wonderwolf]

Thanks a lot for the input guys, right now the crack is just a hairline. I'll have to check and see if my acraglass is still good I know its almost 14 years old. might be time to order a new kit.

bedbugbilly- when I received the grips they did not fit right away, I had to relieve a the spine area a bit but it could be that I didn't do it enough and its caused a pressure point just like you mentioned, From the inside I think I'll remove more material and bed the entire spine on both sides to make sure they are "bomb" proof as I really like these grips as the slick wood doesn't pull up my shirt when carrying like rubber does.

[44man]

Thanks a lot for the input guys, right now the crack is just a hairline. I'll have to check and see if my acraglass is still good I know its almost 14 years old. might be time to order a new kit.

bedbugbilly- when I received the grips they did not fit right away, I had to relieve a the spine area a bit but it could be that I didn't do it enough and its caused a pressure point just like you mentioned, From the inside I think I'll remove more material and bed the entire spine on both sides to make sure they are "bomb" proof as I really like these grips as the slick wood doesn't pull up my shirt when carrying like rubber does.
Warm the Accra Glass so it flows again. It can crystallize but is not bad.

[Tackleberry41]

I found some similar grips on Ebay, said Thai made, so imagine many sold on Ebay are imports. As said may be issues with the wood. Something made here they probably put some more care into picking the right wood, drying it properly. Overseas they don't tend to care to much. I have seen people in places do some beautiful hand work with wood. But most just use whatever is cheapest. I used to build guitars and the garbage the Chinese were sending over here, laminates of often 10 pieces, bet it sounds really good that way. But lots of mistakes can be covered by paint. There was a wood they were using in guitars for a while, called it one thing, when in reality it wasn't even close. There are no trees in China, they import all their wood.

I was told recently that acraglass is sort of ancient technology, that theres way better to use now in its place.

[wonderwolf]

I found some similar grips on Ebay, said Thai made, so imagine many sold on Ebay are imports. As said may be issues with the wood. Something made here they probably put some more care into picking the right wood, drying it properly. Overseas they don't tend to care to much. I have seen people in places do some beautiful hand work with wood. But most just use whatever is cheapest. I used to build guitars and the garbage the Chinese were sending over here, laminates of often 10 pieces, bet it sounds really good that way. But lots of mistakes can be covered by paint. There was a wood they were using in guitars for a while, called it one thing, when in reality it wasn't even close. There are no trees in China, they import all their wood.

I was told recently that acraglass is sort of ancient technology, that theres way better to use now in its place.

Any methods off the shelf at the big box stores? and possibly cheaper than acraglas? I didn't realize how expensive it has gotten to replace heh

[44man]

Any methods off the shelf at the big box stores? and possibly cheaper than acraglas? I didn't realize how expensive it has gotten to replace heh
Not hardly, might be old but nothing has been so good.

[Char-Gar]

To fix the crack Acraglas thinned with mineral spirits or Acragel will work. Acraglas is a much better bonding agent that Acragel.

Drill couple of small holes, on the crack, from the backside, about half way through the grip.

Fill the holes with Acraglas and using a small hardwood dowel pin the same size the hole, pump the Acraglas into the hole until it starts to ooze from the crack on the outside.

Use a big rubber band warped tightly to hold the crack close while it cures.

Leave the dowel pin in the hole and let it all harden.

Cut off dowel pin after all is cured and clean up both sides of the grip.

Refinish as needed.

Without the grips and handgun, I could not say if the grips need to be bedded. If they allow the handgun to slip in the grips, something needs to be done to tighten things up. Rather than the mess of bedding, I use small strips of aluminum HVAC duct tape on the gun frame to make hard contact areas. These can be removed if you change grips and they are no longer needed.

I agree with bedbugbilly that the wood is mostly likely of poor quality and poorly dried.

[Tackleberry41]

Tried to find some info on when acraglass first came out, but presume quite some time ago. Technology changes. Friend was bedding a rifle, he was using I will say the Devcon titanium stuff on it. Says its better than acraglass.

I used marinetex recently on a mosin, its a mosin, and I could order and wait on some acraglass, or use marine tex I already had. Haven't seen any issues with it, had a can of release agent on the shelf.

Some mention JB weld, but the PSI rating is about half what marine tex is. Imagine in some instances wouldn't need much strength. JB has a newer 'marine' version out, but is only a little stronger then the original.

When it comes to gluing wood to wood, I have not found where you need anything more than standard wood glue. I have glued guitars together with titebond and forget about getting it apart easily. Yes steam works but not many of us use steam with our guns.

[44man]

Wood glue is good but I have had too many stocks brought with a sad glue repair because they did not know how to use it.
I made much furniture with Tite Bond and Gorilla glue with no screws or nails, good stuff.
If you are working with thin wood like the wing covering on a model airplane, put glue (Tite Bond or Elmers.) on both pieces and let it dry. The use a covering iron to heat the covering of wood, the glue will soften and bond so it will never come apart. Makes it easy to cover all the curves.