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View Full Version : Seating stems in seater dies - how to make them fit



Blackwater
05-30-2015, 01:29 PM
Just thought of this and apologize for not posting it sooner for some of the newbies here. My CRS disease is the only thing I have that's getting stronger, it seems. Anyway, we all WILL, if we haven't already, encountered the results of the fact that nose designs for cast boolits varies much more than the Jbullets' do. This sooner or later will result in our finding that the seater stems in our seater died leave rings or other marks on our boolits. The solution is really simple. It's been long ago and I can't recall where I learned it, but all I did to prevent those nasty, ugly and sometimes problematic rings is to cut a little piece of relatively hard plastic so it'd fit the top of the seater stem, use some glue I can get to release afterward, or just enough bees' wax to hold it in effectively (just enough to form a vacuum if the boolit's tip tends to stick and try to pull it out from the stem) and readjust the stem's depth so it seats the boolits at just the right OAL to crimp and feed in whatver guns were involved in the issue. This could come in handy when loading the WFN or WLN types, too. New stems can be made, of course, with broad and flat tips for seating flat nose boolits of all types, but this is a quick stop-gap method to get us through some initial loadings of new to us boolits.

Seater stems for pistol dies usually come with both one for SWC and one for RN types. When loading JHP's, I usually if not always just use the RN seater. It tends to let the bullet's point slip and slide into better alignment, and tends less toward flattening out the HP's usually soft points or opening up the often tender slit portion of the front of the bullets' jackets.

In reloading, it's ALWAYS the "little things" that make the difference between frustration at the range or really bad results in defensive situations that make very a significant difference in outcomes. Like the computer principle "Garbage in, garbage out." Maybe it's not "garbage," exactly, but the more thought and care we put into our loading, the better the results we'll inevitably get. It's that way in all we do, really, and the current trend to say, "That's good enough," CAN sometimes bite us in the butt, so .... it really takes very little actual TIME to do things with care. It just takes a bit of attention and thought about the details, and we get sometimes MUCH better loads for our boolits. FWIW?

Anybody got any more little tidbits of wisdom or info that we might all benefit from regarding seater stems??? I know some of you must have some good input here.

borg
05-30-2015, 01:57 PM
Hot glue.
Can be removed when done and don't have to worry about it pulling the boolit out.

GOPHER SLAYER
05-30-2015, 02:10 PM
When I had my lathe I would drill out the seating stem and fill the void with JB Weld. I would then put the bullet I wanted to seat in the tailstock and run it into the seating stem. I would let it set overnight and pull the bullet out of the stem. It was easier to remove if you put a little grease on the nose of the bullet. I have some seating stems that I modified that I have been using for years. I don't see why you couldn't do the same trick with a drill press.

borg
05-30-2015, 02:26 PM
Trouble is, is that you have to get a seating stem for every boolit you load, I'm cheep :popcorn:

Blackwater
05-30-2015, 02:51 PM
:lol: Me too. And there's always stuff laying around I can press into use. Sure wish I had a lathe, though. I've used them, and love 'em, but they're spendy, I wouldn't use them often, and I really don't have the space for one. Sometimes, being "wise" in one way is less than fulfilling in ohters, but at least we and others can "improvise and overcome." That's always a good thing, and this is just something I thought a lot of newbies might find interesting and useful.

gloob
05-30-2015, 09:26 PM
I can fit most (all?) my Lee pistol seater stems into a 1/2" hand drill. I order spares from Lee Precision for 2-3.00 each.

I hog out the inside with a Dremel tool and a carbide bit. Just fit the bullet to it and keep working until it is close. Then switch to Dremel with a stone or a diamond coated bit when I get close. Then emery cloth on a stick. For some of my hollowpoints, I will even put some valve grinding compound on the bullet and push it against the seating stem while I spin the drill.

For some of my bullets, I use a custom seater that is shaped to not even touch the nose, at all. There's not a whole lot of real estate on a Lee seating stem, so this leaves just a little ring on the outside of the stem to touch on the ogive.


Trouble is, is that you have to get a seating stem for every boolit you load, I'm cheep
I'm cheap, too. When you find the CHEAPEST bullet that shoots good for you, but the nose gets deformed while seating, $3.00 and 30 minutes for a custom seater is being a cheap skate!

David2011
05-31-2015, 01:38 AM
One other thing I ran into recently and posted: make sure the seating die body screws down to touch (single stage) or almost touch (progressive) the shell holder/plate. If it doesn't there will be other problems. Letting the shell holder come up against the die body assures that the distance from cartridge face to ogive is consistent.

David

44man
05-31-2015, 07:52 AM
JB Weld, Accra Glass or Steel Bed always works.

Shiloh
05-31-2015, 09:12 AM
Hot glue.
Can be removed when done and don't have to worry about it pulling the boolit out.

Make sure it is dead straight before you mold. If not, easy to redo.

Shiloh

Geezer in NH
05-31-2015, 09:30 AM
One other thing I ran into recently and posted: make sure the seating die body screws down to touch (single stage) or almost touch (progressive) the shell holder/plate. If it doesn't there will be other problems. Letting the shell holder come up against the die body assures that the distance from cartridge face to ogive is consistent.

David
Won't that crimp excessively in conventional dies?

lesharris
05-31-2015, 11:33 AM
All the remedies above will work. A cheap fix I have used in the past was a shipping/packing peanut placed between bullet nose and seating stem. A non permanent fix that is easily removed. Les Harris

Echo
05-31-2015, 12:09 PM
I read somewhere about crumpling a small wad of Al foil into the cavity of a G die for sizing boolits, but haven't used it yet. Couldn't that work in seating? Maybe not - maybe not accurate enough o ensure centering...