What a mess and a pain in the butt!

[mugsie]

Is there a better way of changing calibers with a Lyman Lubesizer 4500? The sizer die is all gunked up, it's a pain to remove, can't clean the inside effectively, then once the new die is in place getting the top nut on, what in the world would have possessed their engineers to cut such fine threads into the damn thing, is virtually impossible. There has got to be a better way![smilie=b:

[Scrounger]

Now you know why so many of us use the Lee Sizer System!

[Kraschenbirn]

If your L4500 doesn't have a heater, you might try using an electric heat gun to melt the excess lube off the outside of your sizer die. Also works pretty well for cleaning up around the retaining nut threads before you install the next (different caliber) die.

I've never used an 4500 but I've got two 450s and, with clean threads, have never had a great deal of difficulty with the die retaining nut...and I've got fairly large hands.

Bill

[beagle]

I keep a can of mineral spirits on the bench. When I remove a die, I drop it in as well as the small retaining ring as I ordered up a bunch of spares. After my sizing session, I wipe off the gelled lube with a paper towel and store them in marked 35mm film cannisters (usually free for the asking from Wally World photo shop). Same with the retaining rings. The clean rings seem to start a lot better than one that's coated with goop./beagle

[BigGun]

mineral spirits is the way to go,let the die soak for a few minutes, or clean lube off
with parts cleaning brush. I let my dies soak, then blow dry with compressed air.
when installing a different die in sizer, i put the retaining nut on the die, the o-ring
on the die holds the nut and helps line up the nut with its threads in sizer frame.
Biggun

[VTDW]

Mugsie,

I had the same problem the first two times I changed dies but after a couple of times I got the hang of it. Sorta by the seat of my pants thing.:mrgreen: You can move the sizing die a bit when attempting to install the locking nut and you can also use a flat of some sort to gently put pressure on the nut using the ram to apply the pressure while you screw it in.

You can also put the sizing die in the nut and try installing it that way. Sometimes that works extremely well if the lube helps stick the die to the nut. Sorta like BigGun said.

Another thing, do you know the trick about 'setting' a nut? That is when you purposely turn the nut backwards until you feel it set/sit. That is the point where the starting threads of the nut and bolt are aligned. Try it with a nut and bolt and you can feel it.

Oh yeah, rightie tightie...leftie loosie:mrgreen::mrgreen:

Dave

[Freightman]

The turning the nut backward is a tried and true way to start a nut in a lot of things. I work part time in a archery shop and I cut the arrows and glue in the inserts in, one brand of arrows have an internal insert that is hard to get the point to line up and screw in. Had a Doctor buy some and the next morning he was back and not happy "^7*&^% things are no good can't screw in the points" said he. Well not saying a word took arrow and turned it backward which made a little pop when it seated and screwed the point in. You have heard the advertisement as "Priceless" the look on his face was and he never said a word just stomped out.

[AZ-Stew]

Freightman,

Are you aware that archery is the only sport where you can't try it until you've nocked it?

Mugsie,

As others have noted, various solvents will remove the lube from the sizer dies. I've always used lighter fluid. That's what was on hand when I started casting and I never broke the habit. I always throw away the thin plastic tube Lyman sizer dies come in and use small pill bottles to store my dies.

Changing dies and replacing the die nut is relatively simple. I'll elaborate a bit on the advice others have given. Start with a clean die. Even wiping the die with a dry paper towel will remove most of the lube (I've always used alox and beeswax) that's stuck on it from the previous session. Place the die nut on the sizing die and push the die down into the sizer. Put the Lyman nut wrench on the nut and push down on the top of the nut with the thumb of your other hand while turning the wrench. I've always been able to get the nut to thread in immediately using this method.

Regards,

Stew

[jonk]

Agreed. PITA. That's why I try and cast up a LOT of one diameter at a time, so I won't have to change for a bit.

[Shepherd2]

Hopefully you got the heater with your 4500. If you did plug it in 15 or 20 minutes prior to removing the die. The die comes out easily and it should be warm enough to wipe off easily with a rag or paper towel.

[monadnock#5]

I'm sure that waiting for the heater to warm the unit up makes die removal and insertion easier, but I'm not patient enough for that.

I stick the box end of my wrench under the lifting pin and drive the old die out. I drive the new die in by hand as far as it will go, then seat it fully with the ram, with correct top punch in place to keep the die square with the casting. Then I put the retaining nut in place, and while putting slight pressure on it with the ram, I start it in with the open end wrench. When the threads are well engaged, I finish turning it down with the box end of the wrench.

FWIW, my suggestion would be to ding the Lyman wrench, and use the real thing.

[38 Super Auto]

I keep a can of mineral spirits on the bench. When I remove a die, I drop it in as well as the small retaining ring as I ordered up a bunch of spares. After my sizing session, I wipe off the gelled lube with a paper towel and store them in marked 35mm film cannisters (usually free for the asking from Wally World photo shop). Same with the retaining rings. The clean rings seem to start a lot better than one that's coated with goop./beagle

Beagle, this is good input. I have found small prescription bottles are also the right diameter to store die.