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OnceFired
05-24-2015, 11:19 PM
Hey all

Thought I'd post about this, since I had no idea what I just found could happen.

As many of you know, I tumble my brass in a cement mixer and recently upgraded to using steel pins. I wanted to run an experiment with the water used to clean the brass. After many weeks of sitting there un-used, the experiment is now seeing the light of day.

Here's the history of it.

I cleaned a full 5 gallon bucket of 223 brass using the following recipe:


Hot water (boiling from the stove - approx 2-3 gallons)
Hot water from the tap (remaining balance of 5 gallons or so)
Citric acid (from Walmart - about an ounce)
A couple drops of standard Dawn
Approximately 15 lbs of steel pins
Note that I cleaned about half of the brass per load so it took 2 loads to get it all done (pins work better with higher ratio of pins to brass)


I kept the water from the wash cycle in two 5 gallon buckets. That included a little bit of the rinse water too, but for the most part I did not keep the rinse water. It was easy enough to dump the cold rinse water into different buckets, so that's what I did.

So, what I have in two buckets is highly concentrated dirty brass water, which is high in citric acid content and likely has quite a bit of lead particulates as well as gunpowder residue, and a little soap.

The water was kept sealed in the 5 gallon plastic buckets for probably 2-3 months. Outdoors in full sun.

My plan was to use a biosand filter to clean the water up. My experiment was to see precisely how clean the filter could make the water.

I have one bucket that I have begun filtering already, and I have kept the other one on hand. I want to get that water tested before I run it through the filter, then test the filtered water after 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 passes through the biosand.

On to my point...

Interestingly, both buckets developed a very viscous, slimy almost fatty substance that floats on & just beneath the surface of the water. I have no idea what that might be. It looks nasty and feels worse, but it doesn't smell at all. Apparently it also coated the sides & bottom of the bucket, but when the water was disturbed that part quickly broke apart into sheets which then tore apart into tiny filaments.

But those filaments it definitely clogged up my top bucket that allows water to dribble out a small hole in the bottom before it gets to the top dispersal plate of the actual filter bucket. I'll post photos tomorrow so you can see what I mean.

The layer floating on top of each bucket did not break up easily. I ended up using a paint strainer bag to get the goop out of the dark brown water. I used latex gloves during the whole thing so I wouldn't get anything unknown all over my skin.

So my question is - what IS that junk? I have seen water go stagnant before of course, but it grew a paper thin film of algae not this really thick slime.

I imagine the highly acidic and nitrogen-impregnated water was a bit of a primordial soup so I don't know what to expect from having that in a petri dish so to speak. But, I expected to be testing what was essentially dirt dissolved in water, and instead I got a bit of a surprise.

I read a study that biosand filters do a fantastic job of filtering out lead & other heavy metals, and wanted to test the theory. I got something I hadn't planned on, which was both cool and odd.

Anyone have some knowledge they could share?

OF

possom813
05-25-2015, 12:18 AM
I have no idea what it could be, but hopefully someone does. Subscribing for knowledge.

Rory McCanuck
05-25-2015, 03:40 AM
It's just a mold that grows in citric acid.
Scoop it off and carry on.

SGTM9
05-25-2015, 07:11 AM
My guess would be that it is a mold or the dishsoap has separated out of the water.

Teddy (punchie)
05-25-2015, 07:47 AM
I would say mold of some type. Most chemicals have a natural enemy. Waste left over by one of them. Someone that works around chemicals can explain better.

kens
05-25-2015, 07:56 AM
I use citric acid and dish soap to clean my brass, but mostly do not tumble. It is amazing just how clean the brass is with a overnight soak in citric acid bath. They are not perfect, but look good enough for hand loads & boolits.
However, if you do soak overnight, THEN tumble, you get them looking perfect in about 5 minutes of tumble.

Doughty
05-25-2015, 09:35 AM
It's just a mold that grows in citric acid.
Scoop it off and carry on.

This could be a great break through. How many cavities does it have and what caliber? :kidding:

mattw
05-25-2015, 12:38 PM
I made a mix once... the vapor melted the gasket in the lid over time. Is th gasket still there?

mold maker
05-25-2015, 03:22 PM
I understand the project, but not the reason. One of the reasons we use citric acid and a few drops of soap is, it's cheap. Unless you have a very limited water supply, I can't see the point.
When I first started using a cement mixer I also read that you could reuse the cleaner. Time slipped by a couple weeks and my mix also grew the snotty greenish slime. I simply poured it out and started fresh. I saw no point in having kool aid growing yuck, sitting around.
I have since noticed that the citric acid, in contact with iron does strange things. For instance I missed some dirty steel cases, and tumbled them with the brass. As soon as the brass was exposed to air it darkened. Then in sunlight it turned olive drab. It polished to a bright brass in cob and NuFinish, but meant an extra amount of time processing.
You might look at your mixer for bolts or exposed iron.

Mk42gunner
05-26-2015, 12:54 AM
Sounds like a light scum of verdigris (the green stuff that grows on brass) to me. I remember getting a scummy film on the surface when we used to use bug juice to clean brass, mainly the fittings on a fire station, in the Navy.

Bug Juice= the Navy's version of Kool-aid. Mixed strong, the ascorbic acid will cut the verdigris from brass and copper relatively fast.

Robert

ReloaderFred
05-26-2015, 11:38 AM
Citric acid is made from citrus, mostly lemon rinds. In fact, you can make lemonade from citric acid, preferably before you use it to clean brass....... Citrus is a "vegetable matter", meaning it will rot or mold.

What you're seeing is the mold that grows when citric acid is left in water over a period of time. Anyone who has tried to reuse citric acid solution, and left it sitting over time, has experienced this.

Hope this helps.

Fred

OnceFired
05-27-2015, 08:50 PM
Odd, I replied to this thread a day or so ago, and it's not showing up. Mods - did we lose a post in here?

OK, I promised photos. Here they are.

Biosand filter setup
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8799/17992348809_66c241770c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tpVusv)Single stage biosand filter (https://flic.kr/p/tpVusv)

There are really only two buckets involved. The bottom 6 gallon bucket is just being used to raise the one with the spigot off the ground. The top one is the feeder bucket - with a single 1/16" hole drilled into the center. That restricts the inflow to the main filter bucket. The second bucket has a bunch of 1/8" holes in the top to bring the water in a slow, spread out fashion. It takes about 45 min to 1 hour for 5 gallons to drain from top to middle bucket.

Dirty wash water
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7774/17557974003_907bebaea1_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sKxcXH)Dirty wash water from brass cleaning (https://flic.kr/p/sKxcXH)
This is the 1st and 2nd bucket dump after the tumbling with SS media + citric acid was done. This is not diluted with rinse water. It is however, several months old. And this is the pic AFTER I scooped the mold out.

Leftover mold
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8829/18174991752_4cf7c3d810_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tG4zQL)Mold filaments suspended in water (https://flic.kr/p/tG4zQL)
You can still see the filaments/strands/sheets of mold floating in the water. This is after I used a paint strainer as a sieve on both 5 gallon buckets.

The mold
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8848/18179721121_ebe0124b68_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tGtPHB)Mold (https://flic.kr/p/tGtPHB)
It's dried out for a couple days and looks more like something else at this point. But I pulled out a good pound of the stuff while it was sloppy & wet. The sides of the bucket and the bottom were also lightly coated with a sheet of it.

OnceFired
05-27-2015, 09:20 PM
@mold maker
Yes, what I am planning for is a lack of water. More specifically I am working with a strong desire to re-use the local supply as much as possible before returning it to the earth for its final recycling phase. This is a test for when I am handling much larger volumes of brass in a rural setting much more dependent on a well / rain-water catchment.

NOTE: The clear water visible in the open bucket is NOT the filtered dirty wash water. That is from rain water I used to rinse the filter AFTER having filtered the first ~4 gallons of brown wash water 3x. Unfortunately, the very dark brown color remained in the dirty wash water after 3 passes through the filter.

So, determining what I need to do (if anything) to get the heavy coloration out is one item on my to-do list.

I did also measure the chemical properties of the dirty wash water raw, using a standard 6-way pool water strip from HTH. The results:

Total Hardness ~200ppm
Free Chlorine ~0
pH ~7.5
Total Alkalinity ~80ppm
Cyanuric Acid ~30-50ppm

I had found a study on a website managed by Centre for Affordable Water and Sanitation Technology (CAWST) by Lesly J. Mamani Paco in Peru back in June of 2011. Lesly found the biosand filter did an excellent job of removing lead among other things. I wanted to test the results and see if I could replicate the effectiveness for my purposes. I'd link to the study directly, but a (free) login is required to get the PDF.

I have not measured the lead presence yet. That's on the list. Right now I just wanted to see if the biosand filter was working. It appears it is at least moderately so, but the coloration of the water is definitely not improving. So I have more tests to do.

OF

Rory McCanuck
05-28-2015, 12:40 AM
You're in Texas, with lots of sunshine, I presume?
Maybe a solar powered distillery?
It might not clean all of it, but it would certainly concentrate the sludge.

Here's one to get the creative juices flowing.
http://www.motherearthnews.com/real-food/passive-solar-water-distillation-zmaz02aszgoe.aspx

OnceFired
05-28-2015, 11:22 PM
Yup, sunshine and land we have lots of. I hadn't thought of a solar distillery.

Reading up on it makes me think it may not be a good option. The distillery would have to be huge to handle even a single 55-gallon drum filled with dirty wash water simply because of the rate of condensation. Might work, and would have the benefit of being largely maintenance free, which the biosand filter does not offer.

I'll look into it further - thanks for the tip.

OF

dudel
05-29-2015, 08:53 AM
Have you considered using a precipitant on the waste water? That would settle the sludge out quicker and leave less for the biosand to handle.

Geezer in NH
05-29-2015, 07:53 PM
Sorry to OCD to me. I dump cleaner water and rinse water geesh!

I call it sludge flush it take some etoh and FORGET about it.

GSM
05-29-2015, 09:45 PM
Might be part of the answer: "The water was kept sealed in the 5 gallon plastic buckets for probably 2-3 months. Outdoors in full sun." "Free Chlorine ~0"

Most likely developed anaerobic conditions. No chlorine to kill any bugs, no oxygen, food source (carbon), and warmth from sunlight on dark colored buckets.

Not sure about the biosand filter approach. If I recall, they were dependent on the formation of a biological layer on top of the sand (schmutzdecke) for organics removal. The sand, depending on its gradation, was used for straining (another form of removal). You have to have a regular and constant flow of nutrients onto the bio layer in order for it to be somewhat effective and to maintain the live culture that breaks down the waste matter.

OnceFired
05-30-2015, 09:59 PM
@GSM
Ya, the biosand filter needs to build up its organisms to be most effective. Otherwise it's a super strainer and that's it. That's what I'm in the process of doing, and I don't think the organisms have grown enough as yet.

I didn't want to just go adding chlorine to a soup that I didn't know what adding more chemicals would do. When I tested the water and got the pH, I added a big spoonful of baking soda to even it out. It didn't even fizz, so it was already pretty neutral overall. At least I knew what THAT should & shouldn't do.

We'll see - i have plenty more tests I can run.

OF