How to remove bolt from Bubba'd 71/84?

[upnorthwis]

A friend of mine inherited a 71/84 Mauser that he would like to shoot in CBA Military matches. The problem is that the chamber has some dings in it that stick and gall the brass very badly. Would like to clean this up but the bolt does not come out with the normal procedure. The bolt retaining washer is missing, washer screw appears to have been cut off, also missing lever on left side. Have tried to remove bolt by moving the bolt retainer spring (my term) on left side with a screwdriver till pin is outside receiver. Thought that would have worked, but no. What is going on in there that I can't see to get this bolt out?
139801

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Verrrry interesting! I think you're going to have to remove the action from the stock so you can get at the bottom of the receiver. Could be the trigger/sear is preventing removal.

I've got a pair of these stored away as projects that I got on the cheap maybe a dozen years ago. One of them had the magazine tube rusted into the stock so badly that I had to cut the stock in half where the tube enters the front of the receiver to get it apart. The nice newly made walnut stock I bought didn't have the hole drilled for the tube, so I've been trying to make up my mind whether or not to drill one or retrograde to a 71 model. The second had the chamber sleeved to (?). I tried three times to get a chamber cast with cerrosafe, but the casting would not release, indicating something similar to what you're talking about--a very rough chamber. Sure wish I would have bought one of the mint condition specimens that were for sale back in the good old days. They're out of sight price-wise now.

Anyway, I think if you can get the action out of the stock you'll be able to solve the problem. Best wishes.

[upnorthwis]

WOW! Peter and Wilhelm must have been on a bender the night before they designed this one. Finally got the bolt out. That broken lever on the left side moves two parts at the same time to remove bolt. Had to use Break Free and screw driver to move the other part. Now that I've got it apart I think I'll do some actual restoration. Also, it looked like it hadn't been cleaned since the turn of the 19th century.
Thank you.

[Glockamole']

Hey guy's I'm a noob on this forum. I appologize ahead of time if I've posted in the wrong area.
I've got a 71/84 that's really nice with a perfect bore and I'd like to shoot it. I've got some orig. C-I-L 11mm that I'd rather keep than shoot. Does anybody still make the loaded ammo or brass?
Thanks for your input.

[elk hunter]

Try Buffalo Arms. I bought 11 mm brass from them several years ago. It appears that their loaded ammo is out of stock at this time.

http://www.buffaloarms.com/43_Mauser_Black_Powder_Ammunition%20_it-158048.aspx?CAT=4443

[upnorthwis]

I made brass from .45-90 WCF. Relief on base can be turned on lathe. I tried to shoot one without the relief, doesn't work. Brass may not be required to be trimmed. Mine fit with just truing up the neck. Back die up to have shoulder hold base against bolt face for fire forming. The Lee die expands the neck to a size that you only have to bell the case mouth. I like mine a little tighter than that so I sanded .0005 from expander. Mold is Lyman 446110 that cast to size (.446) so you could just pan lube. I cast one batch at 9 BHN and another out of COWW. COWW works better in my rifle. Tried the usual starting out powders like 4198, RL7, 4227 with and without filler. Shot one foot groups at 100 yds. In desperation tried 27 gr. 4895. Had a three shot 1-1/2" group. It chronoed only 900 fps. Will be doing further testing with 4895. I also have original PP Black powder rounds. They are way to collectable to shoot.

Update: Worked up to 33.5 gr. 4895. Chrono = 1130 fps. Will now be using a wad on all these loads due to hangfires when I forget to raise muzzle, even with 4895. Have to blow unburned powder out of chamber or next shell will not go in. Now it's time to see what they do on the target.

[justashooter]

Numrich markets a replacement for your broken lever that is an as cast part and requires a little bit of fitting. this part is too delicately designed. the wood is very thin under it, as well, so be careful not to split the wood.

[ascast]

yuo must remove ALL of the front band, bayo lug stuff to remove stock. if you dont, you will crack it back to the mid section

[ascast]

I suggest you do a chamber cast before going nuts on brass and bullets there is variation in bore etc and a lot of variation is dies sizes.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Bertram make cases, which are pretty good but expensive. The .45-90 is likely to be .500 to .505 in head diameter, which is unlikely to be dangerous, but still isn't quite what you would like in the 11.15x60R Mause round, for which .516 is the commonly published diameter. The German 6.5x68R case, as made by RWS, is probably a better bet, at .519in. in unfired examples I have just measured. They are expensive too, but some of the most durable of all brass.