removing wording on a ruger pistol barrel

[Whiterabbit]

So, looks common. That most folks draw file the "banner" off. Is this better than setting up in a lathe to do it? I'm pretty sure if I do it in a lathe I'll end up with a band from flipping the barrel around to profile it. If I do it with a draw file, the barrel is lopsided. And it would be my first draw file project (thus: risky for a good job)

So how do you think I should go about it? lathe and risk putting a band around the barrel, gapping the EJRH, etc, or do it with a draw file and spend the time shoeshining the barrel round-ish again, like most seem to do?

It would be a foregone conclusion, but the barrel is coming off anyways for other reasons. So this project isn't a "barrel has to stay on the gun" project.

[scb]

Anytime the barrel is thinner on one side then the other the barrel can bend as it's being fired. The thinner area will heat up quicker than the thicker side. When this happens the POI will change. If it's a hunting rifle and repeat shots are not common it probably wouldn't be much of an issue.

[Whiterabbit]

it's a revolver barrel.

[lakeparkv8]

I would suggest a good gunsmith! Let him be responsible for your gun.

[Whiterabbit]

What would a good gunsmith do? (please don't say barrel replacement)

[Nobade]

I have drawfiled lots of them. If you do it right it's not noticeable unless you start measuring with calipers to see the barrel's not round anymore. You do need to spread it out and feather the edges and not just cut a flat. Polish and blue as original and you're set.

-Nobade

[buckwheatpaul]

Years ago I had a Super Blakchawk barrel shortened to 4-5/8" which also cut the wording in half. The gunsmith removed the barrel and turned it...and recrowned it....looks great....

[Artful]

Jeez, I'd just leave it - doesn't bother me any.

[cheese1566]

I'm in the same boat. I had Volquartsen shorten, thread, and re crown my MK2 Ruger 22LR barrel from 5.5" to 4". Now I have half the roll mark printing on the barrel. Volquartsen used to do it but no longer offer the service.

I read on other forums that some draw filed while others used sandpaper. I read the sandpaper ( wet /dry in increasing grits) isn't that bad as the imprint isn't as deep as you think.

I am thinking of chucking my receiver/barrel in the lathe and using the sandpaper method with some initial draw filing.I won't try cutting it with a bit as I don't have the proper fixture to center it true and don't want to risk messing up the new fresh crown and threading. I plan on cerakote afterwards anyways so no high polish or bluing is necessary.

[Nobade]

If you turn the barrel, you better have your taper attachment set very precisely since they do have taper on them. And what are you going to do about the sight? That's a very difficult way to do it, fraught with possibilities for failure. I wouldn't do that myself.

-Nobade

[KCSO]

We always removethe barrel and turn it to do a good job. I actually prefer to remover and re install the front sight to do the job really right. I use a shear cutter for the final thousand for the smoothest finish.

[Char-Gar]

I have several Ruger single actions from which the instruction manual was removed from the barrel. The barrels were draw filed and then cross polished with abrasive cloth shoe shine fashion. With the eye you cannot see any out of round. I consider notion of heat warpage to be pure conjecture without any basis in fact.

[DougGuy]

If the roll mark is very deep, it will raise ridges inside the bore behind every one of the words on the outside. I'd be more intent on removing THOSE than worrying about the outside!

I will confess to something though, and I don't know how this works but it just works, if you can't afford an old Colt and want one, or if you had a few and let them get away (like I did! DOH!!) and can't afford to replace them, or if you just want a neat gun that has the looks and feel of the Old West, get one of the Ubertis and leave the Ruger be. It certainly scratched my itch!

[rondog]

Fine gunsmithing tools required......

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/garage/DSCN1243.jpg

[Whiterabbit]

Sweet, I got all those gunsmithing tools!

Thanks guys. Looks like I get to try my hand at draw filing and bootstrap sanding for shaping (instead of polishing)

[GrantA]

I haven't done a barrel (yet) but have done a little draw filing, get a 10-12" single cut file and make sure to go the right way. If pulling towards you the tang goes in your left hand, pushing away tang in right hand. Keep it flat and at 90° to the work piece. It's amazing how well it works

[Whiterabbit]

Thanks for bumping this thread, it's a reminder. I just put in the brownells order for the steel EJRH, internal parts to tighten up the action/retime, and get the frame inserts just to eliminate the need to make a set to pull the barrel. Looking forward to this project.

[KCSO]

First you remove the bare after putting on a witness mark. Then you tig/mig all the writing a little at a time so as not to warp the barrel. Then you chuck it in the lathe and bring it back to proper dimension and polish and blue. Then while it's out you ream an polish the forcing cone till it' dead smooth and then replace the barrel if it is stainless or re blue and replace. Are we getting close to the cost of a new tube yet????

[Whiterabbit]

well, I think we are looking at filing the lettering out, then feathering the flat spot out to avoid making the barrel look oblong. From folks who have done this, they suggest it will not look off. That the lettering is not that deep.

That saves the trip to the TIG welder and lathe.

New tube from Pacnor is the cost of the blank + $50 (or $100, I forget) and you get two barrels.

[matrixcs]

Fine gunsmithing tools required......

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/garage/DSCN1243.jpg

I think you forgot the all important pipe wrench.. never can tell how tight that thread is....

[cheese1566]

146139146140

I dont think mine turned out too bad. I draw filed, then "buffed" with various strips of wet/dry paper like I shining shoes.
Then sandblasted with 100 garnet, then cerakote.

[GrantA]

Nice work cheese!

[Whiterabbit]

well, got it done. First true draw filing. I used a fine file which was technically a mistake because it took a very long time to do. But no worries about going too deep, THAT is for sure.

You were all right. Can't tell visually.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

If you have a lathe turn a brass rod, the first inch to land diameter and another three inches or so large enough to be a light driving fit in the rifling. Then drive the barrel onto that rod, keeping it in place in the lathe if you aren't sure of the concentricity of your chuck, although the use of a collet should ensure it. You now have the barrel centred on the bore, and if the first touch of the tool is on one side only, you have the chance to do it better than Ruger did. For some revolvers the Browells (or occasionally ordinary Unified) barrel threading die makes a good lathe fixture instead, but for the Blackhawk that is an expensive item.

Then when you are finished, check that the brass rod enters the muzzle. If it is looser there, you have a good lap for working on the tightening of the bore in the barrel thread area, which is sometimes found in Rugers.

If you have to do it by hand, drill a hole fractionally larger than barrel diameter in a piece of aluminium or hard plastic. The less smooth the hole, the better. Cut it longitudinally to make a half-round trough, then use it with abrasive paper, starting with very coarse, and there is little chance of producing flats.

[Whiterabbit]

It's a non issue unless you have two left thumbs. Feathering out with the file and using gravity (rather than pressure) to do the cutting when drawfiling produces no visual effect unless you are looking straight down the muzzle and studying. Once the EJRH is back on, I bet even that won;t be visible.

Since I had to recut the crown, I put it back on the lathe and reindicated it. For grins I checked the outside while I was at it. My Ruger instruction manual was cut DEEP (as far as I can tell), and at the end of the day I am only out of round by .005". you can feel it with the lathe turned on, but not when spinning the barrel in your hand.

My conclusion is that draw filing is a very effective way to remove the ruger stamp. Dunno if I would do it on a rifle barrel, but it's really a non-issue on a pistol barrel.