Anyone know about small electric motor repair (sewing machine/Serger)

[Artful]

Wife's 905 Husky/Viking quit and the shop says no replacement motor available - I'm thinking maybe simple like brushes but before I touch it I would like to know if I'm out in left field.

[MtGun44]

Don't know that specific machine, but a quick look at the motor should show
if it is a DC brush type. Look for identical opposed threaded caps on one end, usually
plastic with a screwdriver slot.
If so, brushes are the #1 suspect. Should be able to find something close and then
modify to fit if you are handy. Carbon brushes are easily filed down to size to
fit. Dealer may have a brush set, even if whole motors are not available. Bearings
are the next candidate. Cleaning up and polishing the commutator if you replace
brushes should be done, too. These little motors are not too complex. Usually
bushings or occasionally ball bearing assys at ends. Ball brg assys are std items,
can be bought once you have the size. Bushings often are just dry and need
cleaning and lubing.

Bill

[Dhammer]

There is a sewing machine shop out of Toledo Ohio, I forgot name but that's who might be able to fix or get you parts. Not hard to find them on them on th net. Owner will go out of his way to help you figure it out, trouble shoot etc.

[Blacksmith]

The Amish, harness makers etc., take regular sewing machines and replace the electric motors with air motors to make them comply with their religious beliefs. (they compress the air with diesel compressors; no electric motors or gasoline engines?)

[Artful]

Don't know that specific machine, but a quick look at the motor should show if it is a DC brush type. Look for identical opposed threaded caps on one end, usually plastic with a screwdriver slot.
If so, brushes are the #1 suspect. Should be able to find something close and then
modify to fit if you are handy. Carbon brushes are easily filed down to size to
fit. Dealer may have a brush set, even if whole motors are not available. Bearings
are the next candidate. Cleaning up and polishing the commutator if you replace
brushes should be done, too. These little motors are not too complex. Usually
bushings or occasionally ball bearing assys at ends. Ball brg assys are std items,
can be bought once you have the size. Bushings often are just dry and need
cleaning and lubing.

Bill
pic of part doesn't look like externally replaceable bushing caps
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/motor-husqvarna-viking-411000092.aspx
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/411000092.JPG

Dhammer does this sound like the place?
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines

3631 Marine Rd,
Toledo, OH 43609
(419) 380-8540 - Bob is the main guy to talk too it seems...

[Artful]

The Amish, harness makers etc., take regular sewing machines and replace the electric motors with air motors to make them comply with their religious beliefs. (they compress the air with diesel compressors; no electric motors or gasoline engines?)

being the foot control is electronic I'd rather not get that deep into it :brokenima

[gew98]

Don't know that specific machine, but a quick look at the motor should show
if it is a DC brush type. Look for identical opposed threaded caps on one end, usually
plastic with a screwdriver slot.
If so, brushes are the #1 suspect. Should be able to find something close and then
modify to fit if you are handy. Carbon brushes are easily filed down to size to
fit. Dealer may have a brush set, even if whole motors are not available. Bearings
are the next candidate. Cleaning up and polishing the commutator if you replace
brushes should be done, too. These little motors are not too complex. Usually
bushings or occasionally ball bearing assys at ends. Ball brg assys are std items,
can be bought once you have the size. Bushings often are just dry and need
cleaning and lubing.

Bill
If you have a brush motor.. the brushes need to be seated...not with a dang file...oi !. Cleaning/dressing the commutator on such is not a simple task for those that have not been versed in such. If your stator is a permanent magnet...well some more variables of failure.

[gandydancer]

My wife has the viking model # I forget. got all the parts we needed on ebay. :grin:

[Dhammer]

Yup, that's him. He's a wealth of knowledge.

[Cmm_3940]

pic of part doesn't look like externally replaceable bushing caps
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/motor-husqvarna-viking-411000092.aspx
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/411000092.JPG

Dhammer does this sound like the place?
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines



3631 Marine Rd,
Toledo, OH 43609
(419) 380-8540 - Bob is the main guy to talk too it seems...

It looks like if you remove those long bolts running the length of the motor, the case will separate at that seam in the middle?

If it were mine, I'd exhaust all options on getting the proper replacement, but then if there was none, I'd certainly attempt to bubba something up before abandoning the machine altogether.

[Artful]

Yeah, I didn't want to tear into it without knowing if there was a better choice first. I tend to agree with Bill it's probably bushings or bearings, and as the wife said it was running slow before it just quit on her I think that's the best guess.

Not impressed with VIKING - HUSQVARNA service center - only thing scott did was unplug the existing foot pedal and plug his in and when unresponsive - declared the motor dead and that part was no longer available. Seems like more of a "we will be happy to sell you a new machine" shop to me.

[montana_charlie]

pic of part doesn't look like externally replaceable bushing caps
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/motor-husqvarna-viking-411000092.aspx
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/411000092.JPG

If you go back to that website and just search for motors, you will find several that externally resemble yours ... some with surprising prices.
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/motor-w-o-bracket-janome---newhome-m1025.aspx
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/motor-janome-660623009.aspx
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/motor-viking-s325-sewing-machine.aspx

One that fits several brands of machine ...
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/motor-riccar-r1500-sewing-machine.aspx

and this expensive one from Viking ...
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/motor-viking-s325-sewing-machine.aspx

I only browsed through 5 pages of their motors ...


Then, turning to eBay ...

Viking brushes
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Brush-for-most-Viking-Machine-4114870-01-2pcs-/280470724131?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item414d5b9e23

And, a couple of 'universal fit' motors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alphasew-Sewing-Machine-MOTOR-with-L-Bracket-NA35L-Universal-Fit-Singer-Viking-/321512160352?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4adb9e3c60

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alphasew-Sewing-Machine-MOTOR-with-K-Bracket-NA35K-Universal-Fit-Singer-Viking-/321573441404?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4adf454f7c

Same motor, different brackets. With the bracket removed, the shape looks about right.

[Artful]

Thanks montana_charlie (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?1278-montana_charlie)
I'll have to do a little more research but that my be the best solution

[MaryB]

It is a 120 volt AC brushless motor... and the original is unobtainium I found the part number and searched on it. I would disassemble it and clean the bearings, they collect lint and stuff and get sticky. Might get some life back out of it.

[Artful]

MaryB - where did you find specifications for it?

[MaryB]

Parts list and the pictures(told me not brushed, no brush caps) http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdamadoma.com%2Fpublished%2FWG%2Fs how.php%3Fq%3DREFNQURPTUFEQg%3D%3D-9a31971b%26file%3DMjExOA%3D%3D%26W%3DFL&ei=xMZGVZPNMsnEggSXx4AY&usg=AFQjCNHXGdrwgcNYQCBFwRyOfe7G-ibRSA&sig2=Csvnbx0ezmLg1UfJV7JXrA&bvm=bv.92291466,d.eXY&cad=rja

[VintageRifle]

I will look in our parts bin at work. May have something. I know we tossed out a few of these over the years. May have kept a motor.

If you try a universal type motor, make sure you find one with the correct shaft size for the motor pulley.

It's been awhile since I have had one apart, but check the front cover to make sure it is closed all the way. I seem to remember a safety switch that has to be pressed when the door is closed. Not positive, but something to check.

Took a look at the parts list. This switch must be activated by the front cover being fully closed: 2141008-180 Front cover switch ***'y.

The control board my also be faulty.

[Artful]

OK, with support from the group - I've partially disassembled the 905 viking serger and found it has a motor made by YDK Model YM-63A 110/125V AC 50/60Hz 1.0A TW
also on second line has CM E 50190 LR 43045

Shaft is 5/32 inch or just under 4mm or 0.1565"
- by length sticking out of the motor housing of 19.9mm or 0.7830" or 25/32nd's but only the part where the pulley rides is 4mm from the motor it come out a larger size with a cross pin to engage the pulley.

And it does have brushes (two) - rectangular 0.1720 x 0.1550
which has .4295 in length left - almost willing to bet were 1/2 inch originally - shaft doesn't appear to have any wobble against the axis and end shake isn't to bad and manually turns smooth by finger pressure so think it's the brushes.

[Multigunner]

Originally Posted by Blacksmith View Post

The Amish, harness makers etc., take regular sewing machines and replace the electric motors with air motors to make them comply with their religious beliefs. (they compress the air with diesel compressors; no electric motors or gasoline engines?)

They wouldn't have to use an engine to compress air, a hand or foot pump or one of those old style hard hat diving outfits that run a compressor by turning a large wheel would provide plenty of air pressure.
A guy in Scandinavia built a compressed air powered car that he recharges each night by simply leaving air tanks partly full of water out side over night. When the water freezes the ice expands compressing the retaining air in the tanks. I suspect he uses banks of tanks to get maximum pressure. The car is only used to drive to his mail box and back, perhaps a mile or so from house to the road.
At his farm its normally warm enough to melt the ice during the day and well below freezing at night for several months of the year.

Hand pumps used for precharged pneumatic rifles can provide several thousand PSI.

[Artful]

VintageRifle, checked switch by pulling wire off controller board - put a meter on it, with cover open no pass thru with cover closed it does pass current so that seems to be OK.
And thanks for your help :D

But how to check circuit board? :idea:

I'll reassemble the motor and pass some current to see if it spins up.

[Artful]

No joy in mudville - it didn't spin - may still be brushes - so hope for a cheap solution still is alive. :lol:

[VintageRifle]

Unfortunately, I do not have any info on testing the board.

[Artful]

Well I figure with direct to motor supply and no action that the board is probably OK.

[bangerjim]

That looks like a standard motor you can get from Grainger locally.

And yes it WILL have brushes!!!!!!! Small motors like that have decent HP, something you cannot get from a standard shaded pole non-brush AC motor. It has brushes (normally not replacable from external brush caps as said above) and is a universal AC/DC motor....probably 1/10 or 1/5 HP.

I have used the Grainger motors to make tool post grinders for small metal lathes in the past. You may have to do some "fittting"

High RPM (10 to 12K) and variable speed with the foot control, normally a wire-wound rheostat. Most makers do not go to the expense or trouble of solid state controls. Not needed.

Call me if you need some more info.

bangerjim

[rush1886]

If you are close enough to a reasonable population center, try Johnstone Supply. Over the years, I've been able to replace many small motors, thru them.

[Artful]

Went to Grainger's site and did an on-line chat with Aiden gave spec's but only motor that comes close is too big around the YDM motor is oval/flattened body 2 1/2x2 and 5 inches long - the smallest they have is 3 3/8 inch diameter round.

[montana_charlie]

If the motor won't run, you can only improve things if you mess with it.
So, I would be looking under that rear cover for brushes to replace.

While opened up, a shot of compressed air over everything and a drop of ATF on each bearing ...


(Don't forget Post #12.)

[bangerjim]

Went to Grainger's site and did an on-line chat with Aiden gave spec's but only motor that comes close is too big around the YDM motor is oval/flattened body 2 1/2x2 and 5 inches long - the smallest they have is 3 3/8 inch diameter round.

Well, as usual, they have changed their offerings. I bought a motor just like the one you pictured several years ago with thier Dayton brand on it.

Good luck on your search. There has to be a service shop here in the Phoenix area that can either fix it or sell you a compatible motor. Yellow Pages is your friend.

[Artful]

Well called Bob in Ohio - says he will check but don't hold out hope if local Viking Service Center can't get one. Also called a couple of places that work on electric motors - pool pump's etc. but they won't do small motors - got a recommend for ...
Arizona Armature services
4641 s 33rd st, Phx (602) 276-4434

So going to take it down for him to look at.

[reg293]

You can get new brushes here. http://drdanessmh.com/vikingsmmotors.html

[lbaize3]

Motor quit on my leather sewing machine. Replaced it with a $125 sewing machine motor off ebay. Works great. Bought another motor off ebay and converted my Sears belt sander single speed into a variable speed sander.

[VintageRifle]

Didn't have one in the shop.

[MtGun44]

polish the commutator with 400 grit wet or dry backed by a wooden stick to keep it flat, and spin
the rotor in a drlll press or lathe. Find correct cross section replacement brushes or if impossible,
get some slightly oversized and carefully dress down the sides to get them to proper dimension.
Carbon is soft and easily cut. Once he move smoothly in their holders and bushings are cleaned
and lubed (soak oilite type in hot oil for an hour or more) with about 10 wt oil, you should be good
to go. May need to solder the old lead to the new lead if the connectors are dramatically different.
No magic, clean, polish, lube as needed.
If the commentator is really worn, you may need to cut down the insulator between the segments
just a touch, usually a piece of hacksaw blade used very carefully will work for this.

Bill

[Artful]

Motor needs rewound per the shop - $82

[Artful]

Motor back in the machine and it's alive! - now to give to wife to test it.

[daniel lawecki]

There is also Lachmiller - Coolidge on 5115 Lewis Ave Toledo Ohio 43612 (419) 475-2121 They repair all kinds of motors. Iv'e used these guy's for the last 20 years they are the best.

[jlw]

I have a used-but like new - motor that you are looking for. Mine is from a Kenmore Serger.

[44man]

I have fixed sealed bearings that got dry by peeling the seal out with a large safety pin. Flush the bearing clean, dry and pack new grease in. You can put the seal back with your fingers. Most times the bearings are still good. Grease just hardens.
I hate bushing motors they use in cheap fans. I take the fan outside, spray soap all through the motor and flush with the hose. Take the motor out and take it apart, a while in the sun dries it. Oil the felt and bushing and put it back together. Water does no harm.