Cabine Tree Hardness Tester

[ejcrist]

Just wanted to report that I got a Cabine Tree tester in the mail today from Buffalo Arms and I wish I had gotten one years ago. It's extremely easy to use and I've gotten repeatable results right off the bat. I think this is a great tool to have if you're like me and like to experiment with different alloys.

[bangerjim]

.........and another one sees the light!

Congrats! I've had one for a couple years and could not live without it!

And it IS portable.......easy to take to the scrap yard!


bangerjim

[scottfire1957]

I've contemplated one, haven't made the leap yet. I don't shoot precision, so I'm not convinced I actually have a need, but I do have a hankerin'.

[ejcrist]

I've contemplated one, haven't made the leap yet. I don't shoot precision, so I'm not convinced I actually have a need, but I do have a hankerin'.

I understand what you're sayin' and I felt the same way for a long time. I use to figure there's a lot of leeway in boolit hardness ranges for different applications such as target loads, mid-range loads, hunting loads, etc., and I thought I was keeping the hardness levels fairly consistent which I was to a point. But then last night I checked some of the boolits I cast from various time periods with wheel weights I accumulated back east and here in AZ, and there was quite a bit of variation in them. Some sample sets tested as low as BHN 8 while others were 12, and in every batch I added 2% tin. I also tested boolits I made of Lyman #2 made from ww's and found they were only 12.5 which of course wasn't what I thought they were. Could be why hunting load accuracy in a Ruger SBH I have wasn't very good. I'm still collecting wheel weights and buying ww ingots but I also started playing around with Rotometals alloys (lino + lead + tin, antimonial lead + lead + tin, etc.) and using the calculator from this website. My hope is to put together precise and repeatable recipes for the long-term since I'm thinking quality lead wheel weights will become scarce with all the regs and such. If I can do that I think the tester is worth every penny and then some.

[bangerjim]

ejcrist.............seriousy consider powder coating! Allows you to (almost) forget about variations in hardness, nonsmoke, and......NO LEADING! The PC offeres a very hard (estimated 45Bhn) coating that protects your barrels and allows you to shoot much softer alloys, saving your more expensive stuff.

I cast 9-12 (really do not worry about it) for subsonic and ~14 for sonic. Then PC them all. After many thousands of rounds thru several guns.......no leading, clean barrels, and no wear as some "toubting Thomas's have bemoaned with virtually ZERO proof.

You can either use an ESPC gun from Harbor Freight or dry tumble them (BBDT). Check the threads in the alternate coatings section of this site.


banger

[ejcrist]

I'll check it out. I've heard of it but never used it. The only time I ever had any leading issues was when I first started casting and was using Lyman #2 for a 44 Special load that went around 900 fps. I read a lot of info from the LASC website and tried a softer alloy (ww+2% tin) and the leading went away completely. Nowadays I first check everything over good to make sure there's no barrel constriction, forcing cone is smooth, and above all I check the throats with pin gauges to make sure I size them right, and for the past umpteen years I haven't had any issues. I even run a Lewis Lead Remover through all my wheelguns about once every six months or so and never get much of anything on the copper pad. I've used Lyman #2 in my 686 which spits 'em out at about 1,490 fps but I've also shot 16:1 and ww's/2% tin through it and to my surprise it still stays clean. The lube I've used exclusively has been the Lyman Alox. But I'll certainly take a look at PCing. I'm always interested in anything that might work better. Thanks for the info.

[Leadmelter]

I bought one and it is a great tool in casting. A very simple tool to get an idea of the lead you are using.
Leadmelter
MI

[mold maker]

First I bought a LEE, because it was cheap. Than I bought a SAECO, because I couldn't see the LEE. Then I bought a cabin tree, cause I wanted to test other than boolits.
I use the cabin tree.
Cry once, buy the cabin tree, first.

[lightman]

I've had my Cabine Tree for a couple of years now. Its a nice tool. It has a learning curve, but a very small one. I bought this one because it will test different sizes of lead, not just bullets. A member here made a spread sheet for the readings that is better than the info that came with mine. Its in one of the stickies. Just remember when testing soft lead to get the reading quickly as the spring is strong enough to change the reading as you watch. It also does not do super well with really thin samples. Its a nice tool.