Try roll crimping, you'll be glad you did.

[Jumbopanda]

I just started reloading shotshells recently, and originally planned on staying away from roll crimping, but now that I tried it, I don't see what all the fuss was about. Turns out it's actually MUCH easier than fold crimping, and basically just as quick as long as your shells are the right length. I got the Precision Reloading roll crimp tool, and put it in my hand drill (I'll be using a drill press in the future), and immediately started turning out perfect roll crimps. There was no learning curve, no need to lubricate the shells, or heat the tool up. I spent far more time tuning the fold crimp station on my press. It's now obvious to me that roll crimping is extremely valuable to the reloader because unlike fold crimping, it is not sensitive to the height of your shot column.

Here are some roll crimped Lyman sabot slugs with a overshot card. The clear hulls are range pickup Fiocchis that had cracked mouths from the original fold crimp. I cut off the damaged section before roll crimping. The middle one is a short shell that I made using a hull that I accidentally ruined. I simply cut off the mangled section and loaded it with less wadding. I'm looking forward to seeing how they shoot.

http://i.imgur.com/4haUij5.jpg

[Moonie]

Waiting for one of my sons to order the roll crimper, he owes me a little money and I asked him to order it to repay. Been waiting a couple of weeks though, might end up having to order it myself, sons...

[Bad Andy]

Yes...roll crimping is great. Started rolling this Fall for some slugs loads I was wroking up. I bought the BPI roll crimper with one pin but would reccomend to buy the PBI roll crimp tool that has multiple pins installed as it is faster and makes a neater crimp. Also picked up an 8" drill press from Harbor Freight for $50 that helps speed things up. My Father found a nice old manual roll crimper on ebay for $35 that I acually like using more than the BPI tool. They both work.

[littlejack]

I considered roll crimping over the fold crimp. What concerned me was, is it possible for the projectile ( ball or sabot slug) to try to ride over the roll crimp, causing either to much pressure, OR, causing a bulge in the chamber?
Any one have any experience with this happening in there reloads?
Jack

[jmort]

"...causing either too much pressure..."

Generally, roll crimps have lower pressure. I do both, but am not convinced that roll crimps are better.

[Y-man]

Littlejack: I worried about this same thing, and even tested originally with only primer and LITTLE powder. It opened flawlessly every time. I did a lot of research: it has never been known to happen. Then finally, I began to use the frangible over-shot disk: which is guaranteed to open the roll out evenly every time.

[littlejack]

Y-man:
It's not that I do not believe you, but when the round is fired, couldn't the disc turn sideways and get run over by the ball or slug causing a bulge? How can this situation not happen?
Maybe I worry too much?
Jack

[Jumbopanda]

Y-man:
It's not that I do not believe you, but when the round is fired, couldn't the disc turn sideways and get run over by the ball or slug causing a bulge? How can this situation not happen?
Maybe I worry too much?
Jack

Overshot cards have been used in shotshells for as long as they've been around. If this were an issue, people would have stopped using them a long time ago. A thin piece of paper isn't going to provide enough resistance to bulge a steel barrel.

[bikerbeans]

I considered roll crimping over the fold crimp. What concerned me was, is it possible for the projectile ( ball or sabot slug) to try to ride over the roll crimp, causing either to much pressure, OR, causing a bulge in the chamber?
Any one have any experience with this happening in there reloads?
Jack

Jack,

The only factory slugs I have seen are roll crimped so I doubt there is an inherent problem with this type of crimp, IF it is performed properly.

BB

[littlejack]

Jumbopanda:
I know that the over shot cards have been used for decades on shot loads. I was more concerned with the ball loads I will be loading.
OK, OK it is probably safe. Can't be too careful.
Thank fellas for the input.

[bikerbeans]

Jumbopanda:
I know that the over shot cards have been used for decades on shot loads. I was more concerned with the ball loads I will be loading.
OK, OK it is probably safe. Can't be too careful.
Thank fellas for the input.

No need for a card over a ball or sabot that is properly sized.

BB

[littlejack]

I agree.

[mart]

I roll crimp for my 10 gauge 2 7/8" and my 16 gauge 2 1/2". It's way easier to set up than trying to reset the dies and crimp new, uncrimped cases with a segmented crimper. The roll crimp looks great and I write the shot size on the top. I don't see the need for a card wad over a slug. If the slug is positioned properly in the case the roll crimp should hold it just fine.

[Y-man]

Y-man:
It's not that I do not believe you, but when the round is fired, couldn't the disc turn sideways and get run over by the ball or slug causing a bulge? How can this situation not happen?
Maybe I worry too much?
Jack

LittleJack,

On firing: the whole movement is so fast and violent that the disk doesn't even have time to turn. And like I said, I re-use the same frangible [A plastic that shatters practically into powder form on ignition...] over-shot disk that was originally used for the shotshell.

[glowe]

I'm having a hell of a time roll crimping. Hand drill, drill press, slow rpm, mid rpm.
It melts the tops of the hull and the crimp turns with the crimper.
I have a GAEP Palla roll crimper and a plastic one from Slugsrus.

I might try removing the old fold crimp again. Tried both ways same problem.
Greg

[Blood Trail]

I own several roll crimpers but my favorite one is a vintage old school on I bought of of eBay.

[Blood Trail]

No need for a card over a ball or sabot that is properly sized.

BB

When reloading sabots, it's imperative that the sabot does not move in the hull. That's why I use an overshot card. Helps hold the slug/sabot in place. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/11/9f0984f346000d731aef7deabeb116ff.jpg

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I'm having a hell of a time roll crimping. Hand drill, drill press, slow rpm, mid rpm.
It melts the tops of the hull and the crimp turns with the crimper.
I have a GAEP Palla roll crimper and a plastic one from Slugsrus.

I might try removing the old fold crimp again. Tried both ways same problem.
Greg

I think a hand turnover tool, one revolution per revolution of the handle and pressure applied by the other hand, is best. You might find the melting is prevented by a touch of grease or wax on the case mouth.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Overshot cards have been used in shotshells for as long as they've been around. If this were an issue, people would have stopped using them a long time ago. A thin piece of paper isn't going to provide enough resistance to bulge a steel barrel.

People mostly have. I wouldn't want to criticize this post for not actually mentioning casting for shotguns, but that does open the possibility that some people will think of roll crimp and overcard wads for birdshot. Doughnut patterns, which used to be common, virtually disappeared when the star crimp, without overshot wad, came in. If it is used, it needs to be frangible. Those plastic frangible wads sound useful, but I have some 1/16in. thick noticeboard cork sheet, pretty miserable stuff for noticeboards, but it might be useful. The thing is to have it weak enough to break up on firing, but strong enough not to break up under recoil, in the unfired barrel or magazine.

WW Greener warned against using any kind of wad over ball or slug, as being likely to produce a bulge. It is particularly important if a ball is loose enough to roll, even one ball once in a while. But it should be OK, I think, if the wad rests on the edges of a shot cup wad.

We aren't talking just about the wad being trapped between ball and bore, and physically creating a one-sided bulge there. If the acceleration of the ball is materially interfered with, the powder gases will catch up with it, and create an extremely local zone of very high pressure immediately behind the bullet. That can cause a ring bulge, all the way around the barrel.