Lee factory crimp die vs. Hornady Lock N Load

[omgb]

It won't work, not with the old style ejector wire. The dang wire gets crushed by the crimp die body. Wish it wouldn't but it does. So, two choices, well, four really. #1 Crimp using the old style roll crimp. Not the best solution but it works just so long as you have a canalure into which you may crimp. #2, skip the crimp. Bolt action 06 OK, but in my Garand, I think that's asking for trouble. #3, Crimp on my single stage. That works but.....it adds one more step. #4 send the press plate and the shell plate back to Hornady for a modification. Can anyone say $$$$$? Argh, the aggravation of mixed manufactures.

[DR Owl Creek]

The problem isn't the spring wire ejector on your press, it's the Lee FCD die. Most normal reloading dies (Hornady, RCBS, Redding, etc.) work fine on the old style AP L-N-L presses with the spring ejectors. Lee dies have to be screwed in so far to work that they crush the spring ejector in the 5th station. The others won't do this.

The best solution if you want to load 30-06 for the M1 Garand on the AP L-N-L is to get the Redding 30-06 Taper Crimp die to crimp your bullets, cast or otherwise. See: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/591150/redding-taper-crimp-die-30-06-springfield

The Redding taper crimp die gives you a much more consistent crimp than the Lee FCD. It also doesn't work the brass in the case necks and mouth so much, so your brass will last much longer too.

I've had the Lee FCD's for my .223/5.56mm, .308/7.62 NATO, and 7.62x39mm cases, but replaced them all with the Redding taper crimp dies. Doing that solved a lot of problems all at once for me.

Dave

[omgb]

I just ordered the die and will give it a whirl