Lee Auto Disk comparisions

[soldierbilly1]

Just curious. I thought I would consult the hive!
do you find any real difference between the Pro auto disk and the normal auto disk? I know one is meant for progressive and the other for a turret. I am assuming the chain on the progressive is to further reduce the chance of a double charge. (??)

My real question is this: can I use the normal auto disk on the Lee progressive 1000?
The chain seems to work fine, however I do hear complaints concerning breakage from time to time. What is simpler than the normal auto disk in operation? I assume nothing! Why did Lee do this? or do I have this wrong?
billboy

[troyboy]

The Pro is an improved version of the auto disk. The powder hopper has the option to shut off for changing powders or cleaning out at the end of a reloading session. The hopper can be removed by unscrewing the nuts.The base is Teflon coated and as noted the pullback rod is chain operated. The reason for the chain is to reduce chances of a double charge. Works as designed when set up properly. Yes you can use the original Auto disk but the Pro version is a much better option. Either work but the Pro is more user friendly.

[blikseme300]

I use the Pro on my Hornady AP's and usually with the Double Disk kit. I don't use a chain but use throttle return springs sourced from my local auto parts store. I actually prefer the Lee units over the Hornady ones as they are much lighter and I can easily switch disks based upon my notes to replicate powder charges.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

The spring return on the Lee Auto-Disk and the old Dillon 550 Powder Measure can fail to return, leaving an empty case (Don't ask how I know). Double charging is very unlikely in the Lee as it auto-rotates while the manual advance on the 550 can allow the double charge. You must look at EVERY station EVERY to be safe.
The normal auto disk works fine on the Lee's and the Dillon 550. I do think the chain pullback makes powder charging safer but the chain pullback can be added to the standard auto-disk.

[claude]

I am assuming the chain on the progressive is to further reduce the chance of a double charge.

I sent an email to Lee asking about removing the chain and going to a spring return. They said it was totally doable but suggested against it for the double charge safety factor. You assume correctly[smilie=w:.

[tazman]

Troyboy has it right.
I have converted all my standard autodisk measures to the pro. It is sooooo much easier to use.
I also don't have to worry about the screw mounts getting broken or stripped out.

[Johnny_Cyclone]

I run the Pro-Auto Disk with the standard (old school) Auto Disk spring set up.
I have three 550 Dillon tool heads set up that way, and several LEE Cast Turret Tool heads

All you need are these parts:


SKU: AD2296 Spring - .50¢
SKU: AD2309 Powder measure lever - 2.00 dollars




Located on the LEE website under Parts, Powder Handling, Auto disk powder measure parts. (not under pro auto disk powder measure)

http://leeprecision.com/parts/powder-handling/automatic-powder-measures/auto-disk-powder-measure-parts/

However: I "think" the Pro-Auto Discs my ship with these parts in a little baggie (not with a Pro 1000 loader, but when bought as individual units). Just so they can be used on other types and/or brand presses not able to accommodate the chain.


My real question is this: can I use the normal auto disk on the Lee progressive 1000?

Yes, that's how the really old school Pro 1000's Loaders used to be set up from the factory before they came out with the Pro-Auto Disk. There wasn't a Pro Auto disk or a chain back in the day.. lol.

The Pro-Auto Disk is such an improvement I wouldn't buy the standard (old school) Auto Disk, but if I already had one I would have no problem mounting it on a Pro 1000 loader.

comparing prices:
http://www.titanreloading.com/powder-handling-equipment/auto-disk-powder-measure (old school)

Vs.

http://www.titanreloading.com/powder-handling-equipment/lee-pro-auto-disk- (Pro)

$12.00 extra spent on the Pro-Auto Index is well worth it.

As a side note: It beats the holy .... out of investing in a Dillion unit on calibers you don't load in much volume.

ok, well that's my 2¢ input maybe a bit more.. ;-)

[2wheelDuke]

I have 2 "pro" auto disk. One was pro from the getgo, the other was a normal one that I added the "update kit" to. I like the powder shutoff for when I have to change things up.

I never got around to converting to the chain though. The spring works just fine on the Pro 1000. I watch the powder measure as I run the ram up and start running it back down to make sure it cycles. I had it hang up once and cause squib loads, but I think that was one of my old regular auto disk that did that.

[noylj]

The big problem with the original Auto-Disk is that the hopper screws screwed directly into the polystyrene and, after a few hopper removals to switch disks, the polystyrene would crack and the hopper wouldn't work any more and you had to get a new one.

[Johnny_Cyclone]

The big problem with the original Auto-Disk is that the hopper screws screwed directly into the polystyrene and, after a few hopper removals to switch disks, the polystyrene would crack and the hopper wouldn't work any more and you had to get a new one.

What he said to the 2nd power

[cliff55]

Being cheap JB weld will keep an old powder hopper going for awhile longer.
Did get the ugrade parts. Much bettter idea. Poor design to screw it plastic.

[Johnny_Cyclone]

The powder shut off, the increased capacity hopper, the swivel actuator, and the Teflon wiper seal are minuscule improvements compared to the brass nutted disk change out screws.

the old school hopper- SKU: AD2308 $2.00
http://www.titanreloading.com/index.php?route=product/search&filter_name=ad2308


I'm thinking.. one could take that hopper and (as a home project) mount studs in it and then use nuts to tighten it down kind of like a Pro version. Though the other improvements are also worth the money to just get the Pro.

heck, the Auto Disk to Pro-Auto Disk update kit (SKU: 90377) is $19.56 and it comes with an adjustable charge bar.
http://www.titanreloading.com/powder-handling-equipment/pro-auto-disk-update-kit

[kf4zht]

Being able to shut off the flow and remove only the hopper to dump powder is worth it.

Right now the pro disk is at an all time low on amazon, with free shipping/prime: http://camelcamelcamel.com/Lee-Precision-Pro-Auto-Disk/product/B0014DZQZQ?context=browse

The regular is also at an all time low, but for $8 I would get the pro: http://camelcamelcamel.com/Lee-Precision-Auto-Powder-Measure/product/B000KKB5PE?context=browse

[Moonie]

The pro is certainly worth the cost difference.

[dikman]

In answer to the original question, you certainly can use the "standard" auto-disk on a Pro-1000 - I use both versions on mine. I also fitted a pro update kit to one of my auto-disks, but decided against the chain as it's easier to swap measures if they're "self-contained". One thing I did, however, was drill and tap a hole back from where the spring attaches at the front of the lever. I screwed in a suitable bolt and hooked the spring over that. It still works fine, but reduced the tension on the spring, which I thought was excessive. I also smoothed out all the sliding plastic parts with fine wet and dry paper, used wet, then rubbed over with plastic polish and finished off with graphite powder (helps everything slide better).

[Tackleberry41]

I would imagine the teflon makes a difference. The regular disc unit has a habit of sticking with some powder, the fine stuff like 2400 or H110, leaks a little gums up the works a bit. I have 2 one given to me, one with the adjustable charge bar for pistols, the other I swap the discs for rifles.

[Moonie]

I would imagine the teflon makes a difference. The regular disc unit has a habit of sticking with some powder, the fine stuff like 2400 or H110, leaks a little gums up the works a bit. I have 2 one given to me, one with the adjustable charge bar for pistols, the other I swap the discs for rifles.


I have found the teflon does make a difference. However for use with H110/W296 I have made sure the top and bottom fit very closely together. With my non-pro this involved sanding the base down just a bit.