Belding and Mull, Herrel's

[mdi]

I've been reloading for quite a while and all the powder measures I've used were drum type. Also used a Pacific Pistol powder measure that used inserts with various size cavities in a slide. I understand the disc type, but never went there. But out of curiosity, and I just got a Sinclair catalog in the mail, I saw the two high $$$ powder measures, Belding and Mull, and Herrel's. Since there are no stores within 100 miles of me that sells this equipment I have no idea how they operate. The Herrel's appears to be a drum type, but the B&M Visible Powder Measure I have no clue. Nuttin' on line that I found in a short search was of any help.

So, to my fellow members that know; how do they work? :confused:

[shooter93]

Harrel's are superb measures used by the bench rest crowd quite a bit. I use Redding's rotary myself and they measure as well as anything I've used. The Belding and Mull are great measures too just a bit slower to use. They work great with stick powders and I use it for rifle rounds. I use the rotary for powders that meter well.

[lightman]

The Harrels is rotary type of measure. The thing that makes the Harrels special is the adjustments. They are very repeatable, and x number of clicks will be the same from day to day. It is also a custom built tool and the workmanship is great. They rotate on bearings, making it very smooth to operate. They are also threaded so that a 1# bottle of powder will screw directly onto the body of the measure. The Belding and Mull is well thought of but I have never used one.

[country gent]

As stated above the Belding and Mull works great with stick powders and is rated for black powder. Another place they work well is granular fillers when used. They are a slide type measure that works diffrently than most. There is a slide with a fixed chamber that holds a larger amount of powder. A measuring tube is set to throw the actual charge wieght/ volumne of powder. This is slid in with one hand and the slide moved over it filling it from the fixed chamber ( which is always the same amount of poowder pushing into the tube. Then slid back under hopper and refills. The advantage is amount of powder in hopper dosnt affect the powder charge near as much. You have a see thru window in the slide to vissually know when powder needs refilled. They dont seem to cut powder grains like rotarys do, ANd with the addition of measuring tubes a charge can be left set and not need to be reset everytime. Its a old desighn from the early 1900s and works very well. The major draw back is its 2 hand operation. The Harrels is a very fine well made measure of quality materials and workmanship. Bottle and adapters are available to use in several ways. Desighn helps eliminate powder volumne in hopper affecting charges. Very smooth 1 hand operation. It is a version of the culiver conversion done in the 50s and 60s. After finding the load count clicks to closed on empty measure and write in notes. When you want to load again count clicks open and your there again. I have heard benchresters ask for loads and given in clicks. A very accurate repeatable measure that is a joy to use. Drop tubes are available in diffrent lengths and sizes. This measure is very accurate with allmost all powder types. They make a Black powder version of it also. I have 2 Belding and Mulls that I use with Stick and black powder. On the larger charges of black in the bigger cartridges you may have to make 2 swipes of the sldie to insure good consistent fills. Hoppers are on the smaller size for large batch loading, 2 hand operation, and unless you get the tubes with threaded adjustment can be tricky to get set. A great old measure to use and accurate simple operation. I have a shuttzen size Harrels for smaller cartridges ( 218 bee, 22 hornet, 222 remington) and its just a pleasure to use. small charges drop very accuratly and easily. The second Harrels is a standard size for bigger cartridges and is accurate easy to use and handles alot of powders very well. The adapter for powder bottles is a great addition to these measure. Both use a c-clamp type mount and clamp to a shelf to mount. With the adapter changing powder is unclamp turn up side down work handle a few times shake to make sure powder is in bottle and unscrew, install lid and next powder bottle. Charges are thrown very accuratly. Operation is smooth and easy. One thing to remember with any powder measure is consistent operation everytime same speed swing bumpis need to throw consistent charges.If not operated the same charges wont be the same. Throwing 10-15 charges when filling to settle everything down also helps alot.On large charges I thow 10-12 into a dixie cup and add back to hopper or powder bottle then start, On smaller charges 15-20. This settles the powder in the same manner as operation will making for consistency.Doing everything the same way everytime is important.

[mdi]

Thanks fellers...

[Kevin Rohrer]

If you decide to get a B&M, pickup one used on Ebay for <$100. The drop tubes can get a bit pricey ($25-45).

137176

Drop tubes setup for specific charges on the bottom.
137177

[country gent]

Drop tubes can be made with a drill press, hand tap, and hardware hobby store items. Brass hobby tube 1/2" od has 7/16 id a foot or 2 of this. 7/16 ready rod ( all thread) coarse or fine thread will work. 1/2" stop collar. JB weld epoxy. Last is 1/4 20 thumb screws and nuts to fit all thread rod. Cut tubin to length desired for charge range to be thrown. Cut all thread 1" longer than tubing, this allows nut to be on when completly closed. File flat to base of threads length of all thread. you can use the actual tubing for the form to do this next step coat tube or form with release agent I use 4-5 coats of Johnsons floor wax for release agent. let dry Set nut to allow rod to protrude 3/4" out of tube. Mix JB weld epocy per instructions. end of rod sticking out of tube with epocy slide in and set nut to hold tube in place with a wood dowel or ball bearing and dowel lightly ( coated with release agent) lighlty clamp to gether to form radioused cup in rod and a sealing end. Allow to cure over night. While doing this you can also exopy a stop collar to the bottom edge of the tube 1/8"-1/4" from bottom edge. WHen cured remove nut and tap rod out of tube lightly polish with fine sand paper to desired fit. Drill hole thru tube thru stop collas and tap thru deburring inside. Install rod and thumb screw on flat of rod. spin nut on and done.

[brassrat]

I made a bunch of drop tubes with a solid cylinder inslde. It slides and the cylinder has several dots cut into it to lock the outer thumbscrew into. Works well but no matter how many made or adjustments on each, the drop I want might not match.