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nekshot
04-13-2015, 08:48 AM
I have a barrel (300BO) for my sav 110. Could that barrel with threads cleaned off fit into a upper. I don't know anything about these so I have ideas and usually they are hot air but I still need to answer them. I guess the best question is what shank diameter fits into a upper? My son bit the bullet and bought a couple of those 80 percent complete lowers so he is officially getting into this thing.

nekshot
04-13-2015, 01:48 PM
Here I turned a 7.62x39 cartridge base down to match my 300BO. Is there any reason 7.62x39 cartridges with the base rim brought to correct 223 base specs would not work in a ar. I understand the correct way is to change bolts but I am wondering (possibly getting lost) in some ideas. Hey, if I ever stopped wondering my mind would get rusty!
Also, did I ask a naughty question concerning barrel shank possibilities? This picture is a brand new sks barrel with out gas hole drilled. If I could get this shank to the specs for a ar it should fit and work. I can make something of a gas block for the function of working the action, I guess?136804

country gent
04-13-2015, 02:24 PM
The barrel would have to be cut down turned and threaded to accept the barrel extension on the correct timing as the extension has the mating locking lugs for the bolt in it. the gas port hole would need to be drilled on location also. From there the correct countour turned for gas blocks flash hiders and accesories turned.As to your 7.62 X 39 modified cases. It can be done but why not install a 7.62 X 39 bolt and use brass as is? There are some out there as colt and others have made ars in 7.62 X 39.

MtGun44
04-13-2015, 10:54 PM
Need the proper diameter flange, internal threads for the barrel
extension, which needs to be set precisely for headspace.
No magic but really careful work needed. Once it is clocked,
then the gas port can be drilled and front sight or gas block
seat machined.

nekshot
04-14-2015, 11:02 AM
glad for your comments. I am excited to venture into this black abyss, as I never had any interest in them at all. But if we want to stay involved with the younger generation then we must expand our selves to include their likes and dislikes. I try study these threads but until I have a upper in my hand and take it apart I don't know any thing about them(not that I will know anything then also). I do want to put wood furniture on one and I am really interested in the differant barrel possibilities. Always learning, life is good!

bhn22
04-14-2015, 11:20 AM
I'm going to suggest you do the old web search on AR barrels to see how they mount to the upper receiver. They don't simply thread in like other rifles. Pay special attention to the barrel extension, and how critical it is that it's timed (oriented) correctly, and it also determines finished headspace. Then look at the gas system, especially for the 300 BO, since many of them have pistol length gas systems to function correctly, and subsonic loads often don't produce enough gas volume to cycle the action without a suppressor or other muzzle device, and even this needs to be timed accurately. Suddenly, cheap aftermarket barrels seem like a screaming bargain. I'm assuming you already have a lathe?

nekshot
04-14-2015, 12:24 PM
yes I have a lathe and a mill (learning how to use them) and I appreciate all the advice you all give. I know sometimes I get out side the box of normal thoughts but hey at least it keeps me busy! I always liked the look of the original battle dress in the 60's of them. I guess that is the a2 if I understand correctly?

MtGun44
04-14-2015, 04:14 PM
A1 is the original. SP101 is civvy version. A2 has the newer and better
adjustable rear sight.

country gent
04-14-2015, 04:25 PM
The gas port goes in first at location and alighned in a groove then every thing is timed from it. One nice thing with the ARs M 16 barrels is there are no splines to time and cut like the M1A M14 or garands. Putiing the port in a land or worse still is on the junction of really causes issues.

MtGun44
04-14-2015, 08:19 PM
Frankly, I would put the gas port in last, once I had the barrel extension in
place and clocked to the extractor location, then pin the barrel into the
upper receiver slot. THEN once I was certain that the bolt was unlocking
and locking correctly, and the headspace was OK, would I drill the gas port.
All else can be undone and redone, but not the gas port.