What About Ballistic Soap For Terminal Performance Testing?

[Yodogsandman]

I just read an article about the Europeans using ballistic soap to test terminal performance of bullets instead of gelatin. The Chinese, too. Looks like it stays in shape better to show the wound channel and doesn't close up after. Anyone know the ingredients, can we make this for personal use?

[rsrocket1]

My question is does this show the permanent wound channel or just the temporary wound channel? Back in the 60's as a cub scout, I think I remember seeing the results of a .22 LR shot into what I recall as ballistic soap. The crater looked like a meteor strike.

[Yodogsandman]

http://www.guardian-series.co.uk/resources/images/2828918/

Someplace they just mentioned using glycerin and soap.

[longbow]

I have a Ballistic Test Tube which is a cylinder full of gummy wax and it works quite well. Shoot it then cut it apart to see the wound channel, then melt and recast. Biggest disadvantages are cost and the fact that for any centerfire rifle shooting you need two in a row. Also, unless you have several you just get one shot at a time.

Unless soap is cheap so you could just do one shot then examine and toss it you would have much the same issues as the wax system except I am not sure you would be able to melt down and recast soap.

I quite like the wax system but they ran something like $60.00 each so a bit expensive for a cheap guy like me.

Longbow

[dondiego]

I think that you can remelt soap. It is a fat.

[GhostHawk]

Well it "was" a fat (or an oil), that through a chemical reaction and turned into soap by the action of lye.

The Glycern Melt and pour soaps are out there specifically to do that, melt, pour into small bars.
Some of it is fairly clear, most of it is pretty firm compared to Ballistic Gel I think.

I make my own soap, from scratch, with Lye, nothing beats it as far as I'm concerned.

If I was doing it for ballistic test's I'd probably use no coconut, or tallow (Both very white)

I think I'd use a lot more water, as it dry's out it gets harder, both to cut, puncture and to reheat and remold.

To do a 5 gallon pail's worth I'd start with about 24 pounds of clear oil, 3.12 lbs of Lye, 100 oz of water,(I think I'd double that) and as much clear glycerin soap as you can afford to buy. The ones I have on hand are "Life of the Party" "Natural" clear olive oil in a 2 lb box.

Be CAREFUL! Always add Lye to water, not the other way around. Container should be heat proof plastic or tempered glass (Pyrex)
And should be at least twice as big as the volume you'll end up with. If you add the lye too fast it will boil over! (Big mess, start over again)

I think I would cast it as rounds in new clean food grade plastic buckets

Melting it down should be as simple as a big pot, a little water, drop in the round, stir till melted, pour it through a screen to remove lead bits and recast.

Might want a release agent on those pails.