maxiball lube?

[buggybuilder]

Is it possible to use Ed's Red for pan lubing TC Maxi-balls and have accurate results?

[Maven]

bb, You mean Ben's Red, as Ed's Red is a kerosene, ATF, and acetone based bore cleaner and very runny. Ben's Red may work, but it's better to keep petroleum-based lubes away from BP cast projectiles because they [are believed to] produce tarry, hard to remove bore deposits. Bees wax and white Crisco is a better choice as is something called Stumpy's Moose Snot.

[buggybuilder]

Can my TC maxiballs be panlubed with Moose Snot?

[mooman76]

Moose snot is also too runny. You need something thick so it sticks when it dries.

[triggerhappy243]

t/c bore butter in the lower lube groove.... all i need!

[LEADHOPPER]

I have found that 50/50 of the T/C bore butter and bees wax works wonders with my maxiballs. I pan lube them and use a kake cutter to get them out of the lube when it solidifies. Have found that the bore butter straight is too messy for my tastes. Great thing is that I can lube a bunch up and put them away for later use, don't have to lube them as I need them.

[Gtek]

Try the 50/50 as above directed, except after cooling to ambient I throw in freezer for about a half an hour then pop. If it is a fifty, hardware store and 1/2" Tygon and cut to hold five. Keeps them debris and grit free and rides well in a Possibles bag.

[Maven]

Moose snot is also too runny. You need something thick so it sticks when it dries.

Actually, Stumpy's Moose Snot is as thick as T/C Bore Butter or one of its clones. Moose Juice, on the other hand, is runny.

bb, Here's the recipe from Stumpy himself:

Stumpy's Moose Snot: 

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range. 
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block 

Beeswax 2 oz. 
Castor Oil 8 oz. 
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz. 


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water or a double boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups. Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a Vise-Grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour. 

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.

[mooman76]

I must have confused it with Moose Milk.

[dagger dog]

I use beeswax, Crisco, lanolin 50/40/10,if it is too thick I thin it with canola.

I've poured that into hollow sticks for my lubesizer, then use news print to wrap the sticks for storage, it will remain solid up 80*F.

Use for moustache wax, hand lotion, patch lube, leather care, rust preventative on my BP guns and use it for BP cartridges in 45 Colt 45-70 Gov.