12 gauge Rifled slug mold design?

[PepeLapiu]

Hey guys. First post here.

First a little about me.
I shot daily as a kid in the country. My.22 Browning bolt and my .410 Mossy pump.
But I became a hurbanite and it's only after 30 years away that I decide to start shooting again. For fun at the range, for HD, for political reasons, and possibly hunting deer in tge future.

Right now I have two shotguns. A 12 inch Grizzly Mag (870 clone with a clip mag) and a 590 Mossy.

I find the price of ammo rather restrictive when I go to the range and start shooting. Here slugs are upwards of a buck per shell and the range only allows slug shooting.

So I would like to start reloading (never done it before).
But I can't find any rifled slugs I can buy to reload and no rifled slug molds to be had on the market.

So I am considering making my own slug mold. I took a hull apart from a box of Remington Slugger and I can see how a two piece mold would be impossible. I would have to make it a 5 or 6 piece mold to make a rifled slug.

Has this ever been attempted before?
What slug on the market should I try to copy?
Which one would be considered the most accurate rifled slug?
Any suugestions/warnings/advise?
Is there a FAQ on slug mold making I should read somewhere?

Thanx guys

[jmort]

The slugs are out there.
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Slugs-and-Components/products/71/
There are many threads on the proverbial rifled slug mold/design. Spend some time reading. There are a number of members here who have been there and tried that. I have learned a lot from the members here. I expect you will too.

[PepeLapiu]

Thanx jmort.
I looked at your link. The problem with that flat nose rifled slug is that it is cost prohibitive for me.

In a single visit to the range I shot upwards of 100 slugs. As of now I use the Remington Slugger which costs me about 1.20$ Canadian. But at about 60 cents per slug, plus shipping to Canada, plus powder, wad, primer and everything elsewhere. Your slug is almost as expensive as my current Remy Sluggers.
And I have the feeling it wouldn't perform as well as the Slugger, what with that flat nose snd all.

Is there any specific reason why nobody is making a mold for a rifled slug like the Remington Slugger, Challenger slug, or Federal Tru-ball?

[PepeLapiu]

And yes, I will make sure to hang around and read some other threads here.

[GoodOlBoy]

Let me approach this from the point that was actually asked. I have asked the same question repeatedly and have been given the same basic dodge. The Remington slugger slug SPECIFICALLY is most likely a swagged slug, not a cast one. IE the lead is forced into a swagging whatever in a press (alot of guys on here are keen and informed on swagging, I am not one of them unfortunately) to make the slug. Otherwise how can you get a hollow point AND a hollow base rifled lead slug out of the same mold. At least that's the limited response I have gotten a few times. I too would like to have this slug (except in a 20 gauge) because it out performs every other store bought, and hand loaded slug I have ever tried in my old H&R single shot. Yes yes there are people who swear by any number of the slugs in the offered link. But for me 99.9% aren't HALF as accurate in my gun. Yes I know it is basically a foster type slug. But it has lead rifling, and despite the naysayers the rifling DOES work more accurately in a smooth bore. I have seen it too many times in my own experience. Now at one point Remington made the slugger slug in a NON hollow point version that was essentially the same otherwise. That slug, MIGHT be able to be done with a two piece mold, but I have my doubts because of the rate of twist on the rifling on the slug.

Notice in the attached picture the cutaway on the one shell. A fiber wad. No plastic fins rammed up it's keister. No fancy BS. Just a fiber wad. I honestly thank its one of the reasons it works better for me than the others, but I don't know.

If you find a solution, I for one would love to see it.

Thanks

Richard135546

[Polar_Hunter]

A simple slug mold is easy to make. Making a rifled mold is something that i have scratched my head over for years. If you find a way I would be very interested. The photos below are of a .45 cal mold that I made years ago for an experimental air rifle.

http://s5d2.turboimagehost.com/t/22779554_Pellet_Mold_003.jpg (http://www.turboimagehost.com/p/22779554/Pellet_Mold_003.jpg.html) http://s5d2.turboimagehost.com/t/22779555_45_cal_pellet_mold_3.jpg (http://www.turboimagehost.com/p/22779555/45_cal_pellet_mold_3.jpg.html) http://s5d2.turboimagehost.com/t/22779557_Second_batch.jpg (http://www.turboimagehost.com/p/22779557/Second_batch.jpg.html)

[Blammer]

NOE has some slug moulds, or maybe you could trade for some already cast.

[Cap'n Morgan]

So I am considering making my own slug mold. I took a hull apart from a box of Remington Slugger and I can see how a two piece mold would be impossible. I would have to make it a 5 or 6 piece mold to make a rifled slug.

It is possible to make a two-part mold for rifled slugs, I have made several and are still trying to refine the product. Try searching the "casting for shotguns" forum for "slugs" and "Brenneke" Unfortunately most of the pictures I posted of the molds have been removed by the lousy picture host I was using at the time, but if you're interested I could dig up a few...

[michiganmike]

Pepe, are the barrels of your two shotguns smooth bore, rifled, or one of each? For the price of postage I will send you ten of each of the following:

* the Lyman sabot slug (485-510 gr. depending upon the lead. Truly pure led is hard to find around here via salvage. (This one for rifled barrel.)
* the Lee key drive slug (437.5 gr.) for smooth bore

I will weigh them all so that they are all within 1% +/-. Let me know if you are interested.

MichiganMike

[PepeLapiu]

Whoa! Lost of informative replies guys.

Now here are the things I have learned so far.

The Load-all would be good for resizing hulls, re-priming, and powder measure.

I am so picky that I just might end up hand weighting each individual powder loads anyway for more consistency.

I would also have to get a roll crimp die and a drill press. The Load-all fold crimp might still be useful should I decide to load some buck or bird.

Question: Can reused hulls be roll crimped? Would I be limited to new hulls? Or reused hulls that were previously roll crimped? Or can I roll crimp a hull that was formerly fold crimped?

As for the rifled slug itself:

The more complex shape with the rifling channels would not be possible with a 2-piece mold. Which is most likely why nobody is selling rifled slug molds.

So if I were to make my own rifled slug mold, I'd have to make it a 5-piece or 6-piece mold. One piece to form the hollow base. And 4 or 5 pieces to form the sides with rifling channels. Think of it as a 4 or 5 slice pie if you will. I have access to a CNN shop so copying the selected slug into a CAD file is likely the most challenging part of the mold making process.

I still have not decided how I will handle the pouring hole which will likely be on the nose of the slug. I wonder if just pushing a bearing into the top pouring hole could help form the nose dimple I see on every slug I've disected so far.

I'm not sure if I should use steel or aluminum for the mold pieces. Any ideas on this?

Also, I would love to copy the Federal Tru-ball design. But that would be very hard to do in a home reloading scenario. Especially that little plastic ball thingy and that custom made plastic wad.

So....... so far I am still stuck with the Remington Slugger design. I'll have to look into the Brenneke slug but I think the attached wad might be hard to reproduce at home.

The Thug is just too expensive for me. Almost half the price of a Remington Slugger complete shell for just the slug itself. Plus shipping.

So I'll be open to more suggestions on what slug design might perform best. Do you think using the Remington Slugger design with deeper rifling channels would help?

I'll have to buy some Winchester slugs and see what the slug itself looks like. Other than that, I am kinda limited on the brands I can get locally here.

About the wad. I guess the best wad would be a gas seal type wad. Which one of these would you suggest:
https://www.precisionreloading.com/cart.php#!c=121&ga=12%20Gauge

And what is a Duster wad?
I see no pictures available for those.

And where could I get fiber wads?

On an unrelated note, I encourage you all to read a book called Unintended Consequences by John Ross. It is about the gun culture in America. The book is unofficially banned here in Canada which is why I had to read it.

Pay very close attention to the part where Henry Bowman (the central character) visits a gun shop with his dad during his teenage years. Pay attention to the advise his dad gives him about the other guy who was in the store with them.

I live by that advise!

In any way, I highly suggest the book. Best book I ever read.


Pepe, are the barrels of your two shotguns smooth bore, rifled, or one of each? For the price of postage I will send you ten of each of the following:

Both guns are smooth bores. First gun is the Mossy 590A1 and I am unable to locate a rifled barrel for that one. Second gun is a Dominion Arms Grizzly Mag with 12 inch smooth barrel. Essentially an 870 copy with a clip mag on it. And I don't know if I could fit an 870 rifled barrel on it. Most likely not but not sure.

Your offer is very kind. I will be sure to keep you in mind if/when I decide to dip my toe into the reloading world. First I have to decide if it's worth it for me to reload.


It is possible to make a two-part mold for rifled slugs

Not for a slug like the Remington Slugger, it ain't. The rifle channels would rip apart when you pull the mold apart. But I'd be interested to see your results so far.


NOE has some slug moulds

Who/what is NOE?

Thanx for all the helpful replies guys.

Great bunch here!

[PepeLapiu]

To be more clear here is how I envision this rifled slug mold. For the moment, let's imagine we are making a copy of the Remington Slugger.

First, imagine a flat sheet of aluminum. In the middle of that sheet, a protruding shape is what shapes the hollow *** of the slug.

Now imagine, on top of that flat piece, 4 pieces in the shape of a pie. With the hollow *** mold in the center of the pie.

Each piece of the pie slides in snd out on a rail placed on the flat bottom piece.

The pie pieces are closed in onto the center and the lead is poured in from where the nose of the slug would be.

As the lead cools, the for slices are pulled away.

Of course if I have deeper rifling channels on the slug, I would have to make a 5 or 6 sided pie.

I don't know if you can picture the idea from my description.

One thing I need to solve is how I will finish off the pouring hole. I was thinking just pushing down with a round object would produce the dimple you see on the nose of the Slugger. And the excess lead would hopefully ooze out around the round piece pushed down.

Or could I just do a flat nose? Is that dimple on the nose important?

[fred2892]

Before you dismiss what you think can't be done, perhaps you should read this thread.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=246413

[fivegunner]

Hi, try this place for books and supplies. http://www.ballisticproducts.com/default.asp. and welcome to cast boolits!.:bigsmyl2:

[gwpercle]

If I were going the slug route, I believe the best setup would be a rifled barrel and a $23.50 Lee slug mould.
I have read more than once the swaged rifling were more for ease of passage in a choked barrel, not for imparting any spin to it.
I seem to remember Goodsteel designed and made some slug moulds a while back but don't know how to find that thread.
Gary

[Red River Rick]

.................:popcorn:

[PepeLapiu]

Before you dismiss what you think can't be done, perhaps you should read this thread.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=246413

That is definately interesting.

Mind you, his Thug Slug like design is nothing like what I have in mind. I am imagining a shape similar to the Remington Slugger or Federal Tru-ball.

Or do you think the Thug Slug or Brenneke design would be more accurate and stable in flight?

[longbow]

First I have to ask why you are bent on a rifled slug mould. The "rifling" does nothing except to lower bore contact and friction some. If the slig was thick skirted and heat treated then "rifling" lands might be somewhat more choke friendly than a smooth slug with nowhere for lead to be displaced.

In principle the Lyman Foster slug should be every bit as good as any rifled slug... except that Lyman chooses to make the mould cast very much undersize and it has too thin a nose and skirt to be truly functional at least in my opinion. The Lyman slugs flatten out on impact limiting penetration.

A far better choice and a proven design is here:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?261267-10ga-foster-slugs

Hopefully both designs will be tested this coming weekend.

Longbow

Scroll down to post #6 showing a hollow base slug design in 10 designed by turbo1889. You can get a mould made in 12 ga. and it should be a great one. At least as good as anything else out there.

Alternately the simple and inexpensive route it to simply by a Lee Drive Key slug mould or Lyman sabot slug mould. Both of which are readily available and again are proven designs.

Back to the rifled slug mould, yes they can be made though it would probably take a CNC machine to make a core. I make a straight ribbed slug mould for my own use in a simple push out design with a core that has been milled to produce 6 ribs and it works very well. Not nearly as fancy as Cap'n Morgan's moulds but easy to make. I only use the ribbed design as a precaution in case one of these slugs ever gets loaded into a choked gun. The ribs should collapse and allow the lead to be displaced without harming choke or barrel.

The latest version of that slug is here:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?272850-Nessler-Ball-amp-Ribbed-Slug

[PepeLapiu]

If I were going the slug route, I believe the best setup would be a rifled barrel and a $23.50 Lee slug mould.
I have read more than once the swaged rifling were more for ease of passage in a choked barrel, not for imparting any spin to it.
I seem to remember Goodsteel designed and made some slug moulds a while back but don't know how to find that thread.
Gary

I have heard that on a other forum. That the rifling channels don't contribute to the flight stability. And when I asked about it, I was attacked for nor listening to experts.

So please understand I mean no disrespect to you. But here is how I see it and please correct me if I am wrong. And according to the wife that happens a lot.

As the slug exits the barrel, it is hit in the face by a 1600 km/hr wind. Or 1000 MPH if you prefer. That's basically more than twice the speed of an airliner at cruise altitude.

Surely, when I look at the Remington Slugger slug from the nose, I can easily imagine a 1600 km/hr wind would surely cause it to start spinning.

So if the rifling has no effect on the flight of the slug, I just plain don't get it.

[bhn22]

The rifling simply allows the slug to compress as it passes through a choke. Otherwise you could damage the barrel by sending a non-compressable slug through the choke. The rifling does not spin the slug, there is not enough wind resistance to the rifling to cause the slug to spin enough to stabilize it. Look a a shuttlecock pic from a badmitton set. It has a heavy nose to make the shuttlecock fly relatively straight while keeping it flying nose first. Hollowbase shotgun slugs are very similar in design, nose heavy and tail light for stability. Rifling is always swaged into shotgun slugs. It would be phenomenally expensive to make a mould that would cast them already in place. Lyman used to offer a tool for swaging rifling into shotgun slugs. It was expensive, labor consuming, and didn't improve performance at all, so it was dropped. LEE makes a slug mould that you can use to cast slugs that will fit into specifically recommended shotgun wads. http://leeprecision.com/bullet-casting/bullet-slug-mold/
This could get you started inexpensively.

135636

[PepeLapiu]

So I'm getting curious here.
For rifles, many guys decide to reload simply because there is more accuracy and consistency in a hand loaded cartridge.

But what about shotgun smooth bore shotgun slug reloading? Are reloads more accurate than the Remington Slugger as an example? Or less accurate?

In other words, is factory rifled slugs accuracy something to strive for as a reloader? Or something to exceed?

[Sgt Petro]

So I'm getting curious here.
For rifles, many guys decide to reload simply because there is more accuracy and consistency in a hand loaded cartridge.

But what about shotgun smooth bore shotgun slug reloading? Are reloads more accurate than the Remington Slugger as an example? Or less accurate?

In other words, is factory rifled slugs accuracy something to strive for as a reloader? Or something to exceed?

No easy answer to that. I believe almost all reloaders try to equal or exceed factory accuracy.
But: Your success will be directly related to the time you're willing to invest.
But: Your standard of "accuracy" may be different from everyone else. You have to define that before you start. For many slug ammo (factory included), is often considered accurate if you can drop 5 rounds into a paper plate at 100yds. Others demand much more. Add to that that every shotgun is different and you have an almost unending quest (but a highly addictive and enjoyable one).

Shotgun slug handloading can be very challenging to start with. Not something I would recommend starting with. That being said, it's very rewarding and a worthy challenge for anyone (beginner or veteran).

Considering you're just starting out, I'd accept some of the generous offers here and begin reloading. I think you many surprise yourself. At very least it will get you started and give you a base line. You'll very quickly decide if all of this is "worth your time":-)

[bhn22]

What kind of accuracy are you getting now? Smoothbore shotguns with slugs are not the most accurate platform to work with.

[PepeLapiu]

What kind of accuracy am I getting now?
Difficult to say.
I've only been out twice so far.
The first time, I was trying to sight in my red dot on the Mossy 590. And it took me a good 30-40 shots to figure out where off the paper I was placing it. Finally, the guy next to me noticed there was something bouncing off the floor 10 feet ahead of the target.

Second time out I was just having fun playing tactical ninja.

And both times I started developing a flinch after about 50 rounds when the shoulder was starting to turn into mush. Both times I was more concerned with stance, position, trigger pull, and all the range rules than I was with putting it on paper.

I got a second gun now. With heavy duty Mesa Tactical recoil buffer tube. But it's a 12 inch cylinder bore and likely won't be all that accurate.

The club I visited was an indoor one with a single 40 meter rifle range.

Mainly after two visits to the range, I started to find the ammo cost prohibitive. So I started looking into alternative ammo options. That's how I got interested in possible reloading.

Will my shoulder ever man up and allow me to shot more or will I be forever stuck with shooting no more than 50 slugs in a single outing?

Originally, I figured out that everyone seems to want to make slug loads close to factory rifled slugs. And I had the feeling everyone is not being that successful. So I thought I would find a way to replicate the factory rifled slug shapes. And maybe than little smart a$$ me would be showing you all how it's done. Doesn't seem to be that easy!

But to make it simple, the red dot size on the gun is 3 MOA. If I put my holes in the red dot, I'll be very happy. And if I can shoot lots with hurting my wallet and shoulder, I'll be even happier.

Been away from tge shooting sports for over 30 years.

Things have changed a lot in those 3 years. Laws here in Canada being the most drastic change of all.

[big bore 99]

I read your earlier posts. I tried this years ago when I had access to a sinker EDM, without good results. What kind of electrode material did you use?
Graphite, Poco, or copper tungsten?

[Bullwolf]

I found purchasing 12 gauge slugs in those little 5 round boxes to be prohibitively expensive. I felt about the same about buying the expensive 5 round boxes of 00 buck.

So I put my money towards a Lyman slug mould, and a couple of Lee buckshot moulds instead.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72680&d=1403159047&thumb=1

I figured I could cast buckshot and slugs just as cheaply as I was casting boolits, and I was right.

I used to load #8 shot just so we could throw clays and break trap on the weekends. My set up isn't very complex either, it's just a Mec600 Jr 12g shotgun press. I use either a 6 or and 8 fold crimp depending on what the hull came with. I have never roll crimped a 12g shell in my life. I shoot the Lyman slugs inside the Winchester white or red AA wad, or these days the Claybuster equivalent. Shotgun shells are probably the only aspect of reloading where I have actually managed to save any money.

Powder used to be much more readily available, and bags of shot have gotten expensive enough (over $50 now for a 25 lb bag of shot!) that I haven't been loading shot lately, other than 1buck or 00buck. I don't think I can compete with the cost of a case of a case of value shotgun shells for trap busting anymore with the current price for a bag of shot.

I use either a light trap load of Red Dot or Unique, or a more moderate load of Blue Dot or Steel with both the Lyman slug, and Buckshot for my economical shotgun shooting loads.

Really can't say just how accurate my slug loads are compared to factory slugs, as the price of factory slugs turned me off of them long before I put enough of them on paper to tell how well they shot.

I've ran a fair amount of Lyman slugs through my smooth bores, a Winchester Ranger, Defender, and a Mossberg 500. Most of my slug shooting has been at home, and under 50 yards or less, and simply for fun. Because of the Lyman mould I've had much more practice with slugs, than I would have had otherwise. I can hit targets with out optics (just a bead front sight) and I have shot enough of them to be satisfied with my home brewed slugs. One of the better things to mention about loading your own slugs is the ability to make reduced recoil loads.

Sure sometimes you want a bunch of velocity, and other times you simply want to make a big hole in something shooting a slug without leaving bruises behind, or slipping an external recoil pad on the gun.

I have never taken a smooth bore gun to the 100 yard range, as I have rifles that I use for that sort of thing, so I can't offer much advice as to longer range slug accuracy. Typically I use a scatter gun for up close stuff, birds, and clay pigeons.

Many here in the Casting for Shotguns (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?36-Casting-for-Shotguns) sub forum have squeezed out the max range from smooth bores and rifled slug barrels, so I just listen to those with more long range experience on the subject.



- Bullwolf

[Blammer]

as far as your shoulder, make sure the gun is tight against your shoulder at all times. I've found most people get a bruised shoulder when the gun it not tight against it.

I used to shoot trap and skeet a LOT and 150 rnds a day was the normal. Never had a bruised shoulder unless the gun wasn't tight one time.

A recoil pad helps too. :)

[Cap'n Morgan]

I read your earlier posts. I tried this years ago when I had access to a sinker EDM, without good results. What kind of electrode material did you use?
Graphite, Poco, or copper tungsten?

I have used both copper and graphite. Graphite is by far the easiest material to work with. I made the electrode with four ribs 90 degree apart and then dived it into the mold three times rotating 30 degrees between each cycle for a total of twelve ribs

[big bore 99]

I have used both copper and graphite. Graphite is by far the easiest material to work with. I made the electrode with four ribs 90 degree apart and then dived it into the mold three times rotating 30 degrees between each cycle for a total of twelve ribs
Thanks.

[GooseGestapo]

Few "factoids" on the Remington Slugger loads.
1. Yes, they do spin. Look down your barrel after shooting them. They leave a spiral of lead residue in my barrel.(12ga. Rem. 870 20" w/rifle-sights, IC choke).
2. In '01-'02, Remington spent a bit of time and money doing R&D to improve their slugs. I was given some at the NRA NPSC (national police shooting championships). I sighted my gun in for them at 50yds. Improved Indeed! They were consistently holding the X ring of the NRA B-27 target at 50yds. I shot the second best score ever shot at the NPSC in shotgun match and got beat by 1X two relays later by Lousiana Game and Fish officer who still holds the record, btw. I've on several occasions shot clean scores on the slug course (5rds 25yds in 20sec, harder than it sounds to put all in 10ring OFF HAND, NO RESTS/SUPPORTS, TURNING TARGETS; 50yds 5rds in 1min. Kneeling, not sitting, no sling. Again, tougher than it sounds. 9's are easy, X's, not so. I shot a perfect 550 x 5x, got beat by a 6x. He got an engraved presentation Rem. 870SA-Skeet, I got a M597 w/plastic stock, (but, I still have it.... engraved it myself to reflect how I came by it...).
3. Look at the discarded wads... They have a gas seal that allows a small amount of blow-by, and a spacer/driver wad that is hollow, like a washer. This allows a small amount of gas pressure to bleed by and pressurize the inside of the slug, obturating it to the bore like a traditional Minie Ball in muzzle loader. This is what indeed makes the slug spin in the bore and improves the accuracy in SOME barrels, guns. I've got a newer 1187 with a similar dedicated r/s barrel w/sights. It stinks with the Remington reduced recoil but "likes" the Express load, but does better/decent with Federal or Winchester... go figure... same choke,ect but barrel has a much shorter more abrupt forcing cone from chamber to bore. 870bbl has a much more gradual forcing cone...

Yes, the slugs are swagged from soft lead. They do expand w/hollow point, but to the point that they blow out the middle leaving a lead "washer". I've got one in 20ga that I recovered from a ~200lb pig I shot at ~40yds. But pig was DRT. Went through both shoulders, spine and lodged under skin. Another hunter thought it was a "tumor" from the buldge/knot under the hide.

I've made several attempts at casting and Loading slugs. I've got a Lee 12ga 1oz key-drive mold, a 20ga Lyman "hour-glass" Sabot mold for standard plastic shot wad. Best results have been with 1 and multi-round ball loads. I've got a 0.585" rb that I use in the 20ga and a 0.690 that I use in 12ga.f The latter loaded with tri-ball loads to ~1,500fps makes a real grizz stopper for sure. Be careful, though, at nearly 2oz, it can draw blood on both ends from a solid breach gun, such as Rem. 870. Better from a gas operated semi-auto.

If they would let me shoot my home loaded buckshot (must shoot factory loaded ammo that is inspected by referee's, who know what they're doing, btw), a perfect score would be easy. I usually loose 1-3 buckshot loads outside the "black" resulting in "lost" points due to deficiency of factory buckshot loads.

I've got an assortment of rb molds. My favorite are the #4buck Lee 18 ball gang-mold, and Lee 0.310 rb 2-cavity. These I use in 20ga. I get 10 .31 in a 2-3/4" hull over 17.0gr of Longshot w/Rem. RP-20 wad. I cut off the fingers and just use the cushion/gas seal. For really tight groups, buffer with grits... I can get 22 #4buck in 2-3/4" hull. I haven't really worked up much with the tri-ball load yet.
For the .410bore, without a doubt 4-0.375" rb from Lee 2-cavity mold. I use these in 2.5" hull with Hod. Lil'Gun. I like 4, with an over shot card wad and PC-orange wad in Win. A-A hull. Usually two will go to POA, two ~6" below POA at 20yds. If running them through a repeater/pump, it may be necessary to trim the fingers from the wad and make a sleave from either milk cartons or cardboard... but I think I've now high-jacked the thread.... so I'll shut up.

[725]

In your quest, don't overlook a 12 ga. round ball out of your rifled barrel shotgun. Loaded with a rather tight power piston, accuracy can be stunning and the terminal effect is remarkable. A project like designing and making you own slug mold is very neat, but if cheap is what you seek, it doesn't get any cheaper or easy than a good 'ol round ball.

[Blammer]

NOE is Night Owl Enterprise here

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php

If you have a choice, try a rifled slug barrel with a full bore projectile.

Or if you have a screw in choke get a rifled slug choke.

[longbow]

No, rifled slugs do not spin. Even Brenneke's with large ribs do not spin. There is simply not enough air drag to accomplish it.

Round balls can indeed be as accurate or more so than Foster slugs to at least 50 yards in smoothbores (and as good as any slug in rifled guns). To qualify, I have had several factory Foster slug loads (Winchester, Remington and Federal for sure) shoot with rifle like accuracy in my smoothbores to 50+ yards and still be pretty good to 75 yards or so being able to hit pop cans offhand with few misses.

However, home loaded Foster slugs are a different matter. I have tried many and only a very few managed to equal round ball accuracy to 50 yards. The balls do start to veer off course generally between 50 and 100 yards where a Foster may be better at the longer ranges between 50 and 100 yards but 6" to 8" at 50 yards = ? at 100 yards. Not good enough for me at 100 yards.

I have had best success with 0.662" round balls loading into shotcups and with naked 0.735" round balls loaded over hard card wad column with plastic gas seal over the powder. Both giving groups of 3" to 4" at 50 yards with best loads. 0.678" round balls are about the best size to suit standard shotcups so I picked up yet another round ball mould. I have not used that one much yet but accuracy so far seems to be the same as the 0.662" round ball which needs to be patched to bring it up to shotcup diameter for snug fit.

So, as 725 says... don't overlook the good 'ol round ball for ranges of 50 to maybe 75 yards or so.

Longbow