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Bear Tooth Billy
03-29-2015, 07:13 PM
I wanted to update you guys on my 30/30 project. With some very good advice I shot a 1 3/4 " 100yd group yesterday
How I got there, I worked on the crown, it had a bad spot. when I slugged it came out .312/.304". I got some oversize
boolets but they wouldn't chamber, so I took out the bolt, and threaded some extra cases 1/4-20 and seated an oversize
boolet, and started with valve grinding com. and then flitz. The load that shot best was .312' 180 gr gas check on 20 gr
4895 with psb. I don't have a chronograph so have no idea of speed, maybe you guys may have an idea of speed/pressure?
I have a couple questions, I'm going to order a mold from accurate molds, leaning towards their 31-170g .313 or.314"
with a .303" nose, I will size to .313". I've never used put on gas checks, with that diameter , what size/caliber will
I need? When I first shot this gun I thought it would probably have to be relined, 18" group at 50 yds, so with your help
it's very exciting to walk to the target and WOW it actually shot better than my goal, 2moa. Thanks, any advice on the
mold and gas checks will be appreciated.
Billy

dubber123
03-29-2015, 07:42 PM
Great job! I did the tapped case/grinding compound to open up a set of RCBS dies to allow the loading of fatter boolits a few years back. I'm glad to see it worked on your chamber, thats good info to have. I would double check your BORE measurement before ordering a mold with a .303" nose. Thats pretty fat for a 30-30. It might fit fine, but it might also be a bit too fat to chamber. My old, loose Savage likes a .302ish nose. Most Winnies I have seen are a good bit tighter. Have fun.

6.5 mike
03-30-2015, 07:24 PM
One way to open up g/c's is with a screw head in a drill press. Find one that is the diameter you need then grind the top down until it fits just into the check. Once it's fitted use the press like an arbor press to flair the check. Works good on the old Lyman brass checks. A pan head screw will also work.