Lee 4-20 casting pot help

[40-82 hiker]

I'm passing on a few thoughts about Lee's Pro 4-20 pot. These thoughts may be common knowledge, or even counter to common usage. However, here they are for whatever good they can do. Never thought to post this before. ?? :oops:

I bought a 220V 4-20 casting pot a 2 or 3 years ago, as the 120V version was out of stock everywhere. My shop is wired for 220 so it did not matter.

I had a constant battle with the thing as the temp. swings were far wider than acceptable, and even after searching CB I could not seem to make it better (I might have missed what I was looking for, but...) and did not have the money for a PID, though frozone at the time came close to getting an order. So I called Lee and spoke with Mr. Lee, and here is the result of that phone call:

1) The temp. control is made in China. (note: I checked and the 110V and 220V thermostat do have different part numbers. Problem with 220V anticipater is still valid, however.) The thermostat anticipater does not work on the 220V model. He explained the reason, I can't remember it. This makes the temp control for the 220V model more problematic than the 110V version.

2) If the weather is cool especially, but at all times possibly, Mr. Lee said it will be advantageous to stuff aluminum foil between the pot and the closed case the thermostat is in. It will conduct heat from the pot to the thermostat, as the air gap is too wide. Or, one can close that air gap up by turning the nuts to close it up, but I chose the aluminum foil. I don't completely fill the gap with the foil, I just stuff some in (don't worry about the foil touching the exposed coils, they're not conductive on the outside). All of this per Mr. Lee.

Of course the ultimate fix is a PID, but since I cannot afford such, I chose the aluminum foil trick and that helps greatly. Also, I returned the pot and got a 110. Works much better than the 220 right out of the box, due to the effective thermostat aniticipater the 220V lacks.

I realize we all have our methodologies using our Lee pots. I hope this might be of some help, and not too counter to what is commonly known and used.

[Yodogsandman]

Good to know! I received a 220V instead of a 110V from an evilBay seller, glad I sent it back!

[RobS]

A PID if built yourself is around $50-$60. No need to have someone else build you one if you have a bit of mechanical ability.

[RobS]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261286976034?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I had this guy send me his with a Type K thermocoupler probe and then housed the unit in a burnt out computer power supply box that was given to me free from the IT department at work.

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/PIDLeePot_zps0c870ab4.jpg (http://s612.photobucket.com/user/RobS01/media/PIDLeePot_zps0c870ab4.jpg.html)

[Garyshome]

Yep the #10 is more responsive to temp changes then the 4-20, It's easier to cast smaller boolits on the #10 pot then the 4-20 [102 & 50 grain].
I use them both at the same time keeps the wait between refills down to a minimum.

[Garyshome]

I know I have the parts to assemble a PID, Soon!

[RobS]

Also a cheaper option (but not as efficient) is a speed router controller that regulates the voltage.
Set the pot on high then just have to mark or take note on the router what setting works best for temperature needed etc.

http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

[40-82 hiker]

A PID if built yourself is around $50-$60. No need to have someone else build you one if you have a bit of mechanical ability.

Every time I tried to come up with a PID parts list back then I was well over $60. I would greatly appreciate it if you can give me a viable parts list that would be total in this price range. Not asking you to do my research for me, but I am saying I never came close to that total (including shipping). It would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[40-82 hiker]

Also a cheaper option (but not as efficient) is a speed router controller that regulates the voltage.
Set the pot on high then just have to mark or take note on the router what setting works best for temperature needed etc.

http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

I checked the router control out. At 15 amp rating, I just tried to find the specs on the Lee 4-20 coil and failed to find it. Is the lee coil under 1650 to 1800 watts (110 to 120 volts at 15amps)? I have to assume so since you recommended it, but just wanted to check.

Thanks.

[RobS]

The 110V Lee pot is a 700 watt coil.

[Idz]

The Lee 4-20 is 700 watts and the 10 pound pot is 500 watts.

[RobS]

Every time I tried to come up with a PID parts list back then I was well over $60. I would greatly appreciate it if you can give me a viable parts list that would be total in this price range. Not asking you to do my research for me, but I am saying I never came close to that total (including shipping). It would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

That's why I provided you an eBay link above as this guy sells you what you need and even gives you a small amount of thermal grease for the heat sink. All you need is a housing unit of some sorts and some bits like wire and connectors etc. People have made this from small plastic containers to even other building them from wooden box. Many computer stores have burnt out power supply units that they would likely just give you or check a business that has an IT department. My computer guys said I'm welcome to the old burnt out supply under one condition: 1) You don't bring it back to us.

[40-82 hiker]

That's why I provided you an eBay link above as this guy sells you what you need and even gives you a small amount of thermal grease for the heat sink. All you need is a housing unit of some sorts and some bits like wire and connectors etc. People have made this from small plastic containers to even other building them from wooden box. Many computer stores have burnt out power supply units that they would likely just give you or check a business that has an IT department. My computer guys said I'm welcome to the old burnt out supply under one condition: 1) You don't bring it back to us.

Thanks. Missed that somehow. :confused: I'll check it out right now.

[rbertalotto]

http://rvbprecision.com/shooting/build-a-pid-for-constant-bullet-casting-lead-temperature-control.html

This might help

[mizzouri1]

thanks Rob for the ebay link, I just bought the stuff for a PID. I hope this goes well,lol

[RobS]

thanks Rob for the ebay link, I just bought the stuff for a PID. I hope this goes well,lol

Just make sure to tell the seller that you want the type K -- 5 X 100 MM probe (4 INCH PROBE , 1 METER OF WIRE , 0-800 C)

[40-82 hiker]

Just make sure to tell the seller that you want the type K -- 5 X 100 MM probe (4 INCH PROBE , 1 METER OF WIRE , 0-800 C)

I communicated with him as well, and he stated we can substitute a higher amperage SSR as well at no additional cost. In this case it does not appear to be needed. ??

[RobS]

I communicated with him as well, and he stated we can substitute a higher amperage SSR as well at no additional cost. In this case it does not appear to be needed. ??

Perfect! No you wouldn't necessarily need a higher rated SSR but it's not going to hurt anything either. Having a higher rated SSR may help in the case ventilation in the enclosure you build the unit in isn't as open for air flow.

[mizzouri1]

Just make sure to tell the seller that you want the (4 INCH PROBE , 1 METER OF WIRE , 0-800 C)

yup, I got the type K -- 5 X 100 MM probe,
Do I need a terminal strip??

can you post how to wire this up??

[40-82 hiker]

Thanks to all. I've been involved in a range lead project to get some money for this project (and other stuff), so once my body recovers I'll see if I can find that burned out power supply. I called a couple of places, but haven't found one yet. Think I'm off to a good start now...

[RobS]

If your PID is like the one in the picture of the auction then your wiring will be as you see the diagram on the PID itself.
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2NlgxNjAw/z/izQAAOxymnFSED%7EO/$%28KGrHqN,%21lMFIPLDeGIsBSED+OgE8%21%7E%7E60_57.J PG

[RobS]

This is a basic wiring I found. The probe if not like the diagram with a socket then it is simply straight wired in to the PID.
http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/PID%20wiring_zpss7mzjppg.jpg (http://s612.photobucket.com/user/RobS01/media/PID%20wiring_zpss7mzjppg.jpg.html)