Building a rolling block rifle

[rickw55]

I've wanted a Remington rolling block rifle for a long time, but never could get together the money to buy one that was in decent shape. So, I figure that the way for me to get one is to build one, that is, to put one together from parts.I'd like to end up with one in .45-70 caliber, for short-range target shooting and hunting.
Therefore, I'm asking everyone here for advice. Has anyone here ever built a Remington rolling block?
I'd like to ask first of all where I should start. Should I start by buying a complete rifle,or by getting a receiver and starting from there? If so, what type of rifle or receiver should I look for? There are many types, but are there certain types I should avoid?
I just missed out on a rolling block in .43 Spanish. It looked in decent shape, but I really didn't know enough about it to evaluate it. Also, I didn't want to convert it in to a .45-70 because it looked to be complete and in decent shape. If it had been in worse shape, I might have considered it.
Anyway, I would appreciate any advice from those who have had experience with rolling blocks.
Rick W

[GOPHER SLAYER]

Unless you can do most of the machine work yourself you would save money if you bought a nice used Italian copy. Buying a new barrel and having it threaded and chambered will cost you over five hundred or more. That would be for a round barrel. If you wanted half octagon it will cost much more. You will have to spend a few hundred for wood. Buying sights will add a few hundred more. You will of course have to add the cost of an old rolling block to start with. I see used Italian copies for sale for around a thousand.

[rickw55]

Actually, I can do the machine and wood work myself.If I had to have everything done by someone else, it would cost much more that buying a complete gun, as you pointed out.
The Italian rolling block copies look very good, but a thousand is way more that I want to spend. Did I mention I'm a cheapskate, too?
Thanks,
Rick

[dtknowles]

Unless you can do most of the machine work yourself you would save money if you bought a nice used Italian copy. Buying a new barrel and having it threaded and chambered will cost you over five hundred or more. That would be for a round barrel. If you wanted half octagon it will cost much more. You will have to spend a few hundred for wood. Buying sights will add a few hundred more. You will of course have to add the cost of an old rolling block to start with. I see used Italian copies for sale for around a thousand.

Does it really have to cost $500 to get a barrel and have it chambered and threaded. Complete new bolt guns cost less than that? 45-70 Handirifles were going for under $400 before they stopped production. f

I bought a Swedish Roller a few years back and paid less than $500 I would hate to think I would have to pay over $500 to put a new barrel on it.

Tim

[MBTcustom]

Does it really have to cost $500 to get a barrel and have it chambered and threaded. Complete new bolt guns cost less than that? 45-70 Handirifles were going for under $400 before they stopped production. f

I bought a Swedish Roller a few years back and paid less than $500 I would hate to think I would have to pay over $500 to put a new barrel on it.

Tim

New barrel from Shilen: $200
Chamber crown and thread: $225
Cut in the dovetails and D&T holes @ $15 each: $30
Blue the barrel: $75

Looks to me like he hit it pretty much right on the money.

[Clark]

134787

I got a Rem Rolling block No. 5 that is either a 1902 or 1910 type.
I paid $400 in 2013. Neither the seller nor I knew what cartridge or even what caliber the rifle was.
It is in tight chambered 38 special with a military like stepped barrel that has been hot blued.
I worked up to double loads of 357 mag in 38sp brass, at that point the CCI 450 small magnum rifle primer pierces.
When the primer pierces, gas opens the block and the gun jams.
It is a .358" groove 12" or 14" twist.

I am thinking or reaming it out to 357 MAX and throating it long.

[pietro]

.

FWIW:

* The OP said he can do his own machine work. (Threading, cutting dovetails, etc, etc)

* MidwayUSA had Green Mountain barrels, chambered (presumably) in .45-70, for $93 + S&H - but they've been discontinued, so mayhaps a barrel can be found on one of the online gun auction website's parts section or FleaBay.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/614377/green-mountain-barrel-blank-45-70-caliber-centerfire-f99-contour-1-in-22-twist-26-chrome-moly-in-the-white

Track of The Wolf has .45-70 barrels, with different groove diameters $ 5.69/per inch (24" x $6 = $144)

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/637/2

* On ANY RB, I was building up, I would slightly ream out both the breechblock & hammer axle pin holes and make slightly oversize replacement pins.

* I would also make/install a new firing pin (E-Z-Peazy), and bush the breechblock face for a smaller FP tip - depending upon the original chambering & FP tip size.

* I would consider buying a 90% shaped & inletted stock set from Treebone Carving ($200/straight grip-$250/pistolgrip), if I didn't feel like (or couldn't) make the stocks myself.

http://www.treebonecarving.com/remington-rolling-block-stocks.html

http://www.treebonecarving.com/uploads/2/4/1/8/24186299/6357339_orig.jpg

http://www.treebonecarving.com/uploads/2/4/1/8/24186299/593609_orig.jpg


Once you get into it, Rick, the result (however it turned out) can be very satisfying.


.

[justashooter]

134787

I got a Rem Rolling block No. 5 that is either a 1902 or 1910 type.
I paid $400 in 2013. Neither the seller nor I knew what cartridge or even what caliber the rifle was.
It is in tight chambered 38 special with a military like stepped barrel that has been hot blued.
I worked up to double loads of 357 mag in 38sp brass, at that point the CCI 450 small magnum rifle primer pierces.
When the primer pierces, gas opens the block and the gun jams.
It is a .358" groove 12" or 14" twist.

I am thinking or reaming it out to 357 MAX and throating it long.

Still outrageous at best.

[jlmurphy]

I have done what you are planning. My Rem R.B. is my favorite BP rifle. I used a friends 1897 7mm wall hanger for $100, bought a Badger barrel $275?. Tree Bone wood $200, 45-70 reamer $110? The action was pitted in the unimportant areas, so I painted the action, reamed the breech block and hammer for new pins ,MSC gauge pins, replaced the trigger return spring with piano wire and finished with a competitive BPCR Silhouette rifle. I have recently picked up a really clean Swedish RB in 8mm, but it will need new pins, I haven't decided what to make it into.

[oldred]

Actually, I can do the machine and wood work myself.If I had to have everything done by someone else, it would cost much more that buying a complete gun, as you pointed out.
The Italian rolling block copies look very good, but a thousand is way more that I want to spend. Did I mention I'm a cheapskate, too?
Thanks,
Rick


How much machine work are you willing to do?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Remington-Rolling-Block-No-1-Rifle-Drawings-/151626653324?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item234da71e8c

Not sure what equipment you have available but doing this is not at all impractical, depends on how much time you are willing to spend on it but I can guarantee nothing will ever come close to the satisfaction of scratch building a rifle yourself! I have built two High Walls, one full size and one scaled down version in 22 WMR and I am currently working on my third and last one. This does not require a shop full of equipment and the first two I did were done entirely on a lathe using a home made milling attachment so it is very possible to do this and the actual cost in money will be quite low, the cost in time is enormous however so I won't kid you it will take a long time but is a very enjoyable and enormously rewarding undertaking!

[rfd]

seems like a very noble project, but there are a lotta dependencies too consider, such as how the rifle will primarily be used and how you can build a viable, accurate roller for under $1k. good luck!

[rickw55]

I'm not enough of a machinist to build one from scratch! I have a lathe, but no milling machine. I know that I could mill it on the lathe, as you did, but I'm not willing to put that amount of time in to it.
The plans are also available from the ASSRA for about 1/3rd of the ebay price.I intend to order a set so I'll have a better idea of how it all goes together.
Thanks to all who responded!

[Billthomas]

Oldred is right, the more you can do for yourself, the less expensive it will be, and the more rewarding, but you have to live with your mistakes, I have a rifle I built and chambered the barrel from the wrong end, it shoots okay but it'll never be right. Sarco just had .38 cal barrel blanks on sale for $30, only 25 in. long, but great to get your feet wet with. DeHasse has some decent articles on roller modifications, worth looking at. I have one R.B in 45-70, and two more in the works, I have only proofed the one, and wouldn't consider using it until the hammer block alteration is done, you can see from clarks comments what happens when a primer goes, these actions can be very unforgiving. That mod will also allow you to safely reduce the hammer spring tension, and improve the trigger pull. I will now get out my umbrella, thanks

[Boz330]

Picked up a Swede 8MM roller quite a few years back for $225. Had a 40cal take off Douglas barrel and a 40-65 reamer. Treebone wood for $175 and one of their butt plates. This is what emerged but still had $500 in it.

Bob

[enfield]

Get a 12mm Swedish rolling block for about $400-$500 and some 50/70 brass , do a little work on the brass to fit chamber and cast up some .510 450 gr boolits with your $30 Lee mould and your shooting a black powder cartridge that will make you smile with every trigger pull.

[craig61a]

That's a sweet looking rifle!

[rickw55]

BOZ330,
That't what I'm hoping to do also: find a rifle or action fairly cheap and build it in to something like your rifle. That's beautiful rifle with some gorgeous wood!
Rick W

[WILCO]

The Italian rolling block copies look very good, but a thousand is way more that I want to spend. Did I mention I'm a cheapskate, too?

Sometimes you've got to pay to play Rick. There are a few good buys out there. Not being in a hurry helps. And yes, parting with money is painful for me too. http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/brown/fighting-through-the-pain-smiley-emoticon.png

[rfd]

yep, pay to play - both money and ... time.

there can be considerable differences in subjective and objective goal requirements.

add in how soon ya wanna be able to pull trigger and have a safe hammer drop.

to each their own, it's all good.

[HABCAN]

Maybe you guys should look into importing from here? Can you DO that???
http://www.tradeexcanada.com/produits/66
I have no 'interest' in this firm, but the prices seem reasonable compared to other sites.

[rickw55]

HABCAN,
Thanks for posting that!
I don't know if I can import one of those rifles, but I'll look into it.
This is a long-term project. I'm prepared to wait until I find a rifle or action to fit my budget.Until then, I'll continue to read and learn so I'll be better prepared to start when I find everything I need.
Thanks,
Rikc

[rfd]

Maybe you guys should look into importing from here? Can you DO that???
http://www.tradeexcanada.com/produits/66
I have no 'interest' in this firm, but the prices seem reasonable compared to other sites.

in a word, no ...

Q -Do you ship firearm to the United States (or other Countries).

A -The short answer is no. However we do export firearms with a minimum export order of $3000.00. US Customers please find out from ATF what is required from you to import.

[oldred]

Don't know of anyone might be interested or not but this thread got me to thinking and I decided to order a set of those RB drawings, if they are as good as the set a buddy of mine got for the High Wall from the same seller they will be top notch and that just might make for an interesting project. I'm thinking there's really nothing all that complicated about a Rolling Block unless I am missing something and if it's built using modern steels like 4140 and 8620 it should be really strong, 8620 might be the best choice since 4140 should not be color cased.

Modern 8620 frame color cased and 4140 HT internals, some nicely figured Black Walnut and that 30" 1-22 4140 tapered octagon barrel blank I already have chambered in 45/70 or maybe even 45/90 and this might be an interesting project indeed! I have never even held a Roller in my hands so maybe I need to run one down and check it out, the more I think about this the more I am thinking it would make a nice playmate for my HighWalls!

[Red River Rick]

These people can export from Canada to the US for a fee: http://www.borderview.com/services/for-individuals/usa-firearm-import-service/

RRR

[pietro]

.


Modern steel not withstanding, the action, breechblock & hammer will need to be properly hardened - something most folks will need to farm out.


.

[John Allen]

Rick, hi I bought a donor rifle a couple of years ago for a similar project. I have not gotten around to it for the reasons listed above. Someday maybe. Good luck buddy.

[bob208]

if you use a used action get a complete one. other then a Stevens 44 the rolling block is the easiest to rebarrel. the extractor and clearance cut at the breach can be done with a file.