reloads for my S&W model 12

[rojo]

good evening , i recently bought a S&W model 12 no dash and seeking reloading advise ,
I am sure I am not the only model 12 owner on the forum.
please post , many thanks, rojo

[dubber123]

Alloy frame, correct?

[rojo]

howdy , yes alloy frame, steel cylinder , 2 inch barrel.

rojo

[dubber123]

I've never personally fired one. My understanding is that they are best fed standard pressure, (non +P) ammunition, to limit the wear on the alloy frame. 4.5 grains of Unique with a 158 grain boolit is a standard load that should shoot close to where the fixed sights are regulated. A lighter 148 grain wadcutter with something on the order of 2.7-3.0 grains of Bullseye would be even gentler on the gun, but may not shoot to point of aim.

[MtGun44]

I would second that standard pressure .38 loads for older alloy framed
revolvers. Current aluminum alloys are far stronger, and OK for .357 Mag
pressures, but not the old ones.

[rintinglen]

It is here that one refers to the wisdom of the ancients and goes with what those guns were designed for: a standard velocity, standard pressure boolit. 3.5 grains of Bullseye, 3.6 grains of Red Dot, 4.4 grains of Unique, 4.2 grains of WW-231: any of these with a standard SPP and a 158 grain 358-311 will get you where you want to be.

The model 12 was not designed for +P loads. The frames on the guns produced prior to 1984 are thinner than the regular steel guns and will stretch in as little as a 1,000 rounds+p usage. Guns produced after 1984 are stronger and are dimensionally identical with their steel-frame contemporaries, but still not +p rated.
For a neat defensive load, a 150-158 grain WC at 800 FPS packs a wallop disproportionate to its muzzle energy.

[stu1ritter]

The model 12 alloy frame is notorious for cracking under the barrel. Most on the S&WCA site suggest not shooting the revolver if it has any collectors value whatsoever.
Stu

[Petrol & Powder]

135675135676I can attest to the cracked frame under the barrel, I have one that is now a paperweight. However, I have another model 12 that is fine. The cracked frame occurred when shooting the gun for the first time with standard pressure loads. I think the barrel had been over tightened at the factory and the damage was a result of that manufacturing defect but the gun was decades old at that point (although in new un-fired condition).
The 12-2 is a pinned barrel older model and is fine.
I have owned and shot a lot of alloy framed revolvers and they are stronger than most people assume. There have been tests with thousands of rounds of +P ammunition in alloy framed revolvers and they will take a lot of abuse but no one is recommending you do that.
There is no good reason to stress these guns more than necessary. I totally agree that these guns should be confined to standard pressure loads and they will give excellent service with the right cartridges.
As for the frames on the model 12, the prior poster was correct that the 12-1 through the 12-3 had frames that were thinner than other K-frames. The 12-4 had the same frame width as all other K-frames. I don't know if the 12-4 is any stronger due to that standard width frame.
The model 12 is a good concept and with the correct care it will provide fine service.

[Char-Gar]

I once owned a 4" Model 12 that once belonged to the Portuguese Air Force. It was like new when I got it and I liked it a whole lot. It went by-by in the Great D-Vorce of 94. It was a great carry gun! It was a round butt and had the thinner frame.

That said, I would only feed it standard velocity ammo. The full charge wadcutter (3.5/Bulleye) make a good social and general field load. For going to the range and having fun, I would drop the charge weight to 3 grains.

That is the way I would do it.

[Petrol & Powder]

As for reloading advice, others have covered that well. I'll add that a cast bullet between 150-160ish grains with a standard pressure load (non +P) will reward you the best. I like the SWC, plain base, fairly soft alloy and pushed to moderate velocity.
WW231 was my old stand-by powder for revolver cartridges. 4.0 - 4.4 grains of 231 behind a 158gr LSWC is a good load with 4.1 being about right for a light load. WW231 meters well, is very consistent and is somewhat forgiving even at low charge weights. Unfortunately 231 is difficult to find these days.
Hodgdon CFE Pistol has become my new favorite 38 Special powder and I'm using 5.1 grains behind a 158gr LSWC in a Ruger Service Six. That load is not +P but it may be a little hot for long term use in a model 12. You can drop that down to 4.8 grs and probably be in the right area.
Then there are the old time favorites of Bullseye and Unique, both good powders for light to moderate 38 Special loads.

Light bullets in the 110-140 grain range can make good groups in 38 Special revolvers but almost never shoot to the point of aim with fixed sights. Although light bullets can be pushed faster they generally lack the mass needed to penetrate adequately at reasonable non +P velocities. I am not a fan of heavy for caliber bullets in handguns and I avoid them like the plague. I really think the 38 Special does its best work with bullets in the 150-160gr range.

[Petrol & Powder]

For the record, I'll also second Char-Gar's advice on the full wadcutter and a moderate charge of Bullseye. I like to concentrate on the SWC but the full WC has a lot to offer, particularly in a snubnose. The SWC is a little more speedloader friendly and offers a tad more penetration with just a little more weight but they are both great bullets in a snubnose.