45 acp crimp dies

[LUCKYDAWG13]

which crimp dies do yo like for 45 acp Redding taper crimp die or the lee factory crimp
I decided to start to upgrade my reloading dies from the Lee dies to Redding & RCBS
but what about the crimp dies I have the Lee now is it worth it to get the Redding
thanks

[Love Life]

If your lee crimps to spec, then there is no need to waste money. However, I really enjoy my RCBS 45 acp crimp dies (Taper and roll).

[hockeynick39]

The lee factory is a taper crimp die and your normal bullet seating dies should also be able to roll crimp when set up properly for revolvers (for semi's you want the taper). With the cast boolits you my want to only crimp enough for proper function, otherwise if it is too much, it may cause leading in the bore.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I have always used the Lee factory taper crimp die on my 45ACP ammo and have never had a problem. I keep my cases at uniform length and the die set so that the resulting taper crimp is .471. LLS

[LUCKYDAWG13]

ok i will run with the Lee that i have then just thought i would see what was better too use
thank you all

[Kevin Rohrer]

I use the Dillon crimp die; works fine.

[bangerjim]

Once I started using the LEE FCD all my "plopping" and cycling problems in my 1911 45ACP's went away. Great die. Adds another step in you pistol reloading, but having EVERY round cycle is worth it to me. And they are all consistent.

Just not too tight!!!!!!!!

I also use one on 9mm and 40 s&W with great success every round!

banger-j

[Motor]

I won't use a FCD with cast or plated bullets. IIRC at least one of the plated bullet makers recomend that you DO NOT use a FCD. The reason being the possibility of swaging the bullet within the case with the "post sizing" ring.

I know more than a few who do though and haven't had issues. I dare say in revolvers its probably less of a problem because of the true roll crimp and the bullet upset from hitting the forcing cone.

Some terms in reloading are used to describe like but not exact processes. Crimp is one of them.

If you read your reloading manual(s) most clearly advise to "crimp" auto loading "straight wall" pistol type calibers "only enough to remove the mouth flair"

These calibers typically have far more neck tension then needed to hold the bullet so a true "effective" crimp on the bullet is not needed or really even possible with the standard taper crimp tool.

For somebody shooting one of these calibers in a revolver a true crimp on the bullet would be advisable.

For 45acp you often see the .471" dimention. This is very likely just fine for most jacketed bullets but for larger bullets especially cast it may be more than desired.

I measure the diameter of the case body where the bullet is inside. This is about .1" to .15" back from the case mouth. Then I adjust the taper crimp so the diameter at the case mouth comes out no more than .001" less.

Reloading is a hobbie of dimentions. Get good at measuring things. Often its not the exact sizes of stuff that matters but how they compare to related components.

Its not hard to tell if your post sizing FCD is going to effect your bullet size. Just measure the ID of the carbide ring. Then measure the diameter of your bullet and the thickness of your case. Bullet diameter + case wall x2= outside diameter of your loaded case where the bullet is seated.

If your FCD inside diameter is smaller then you risk swaging your cast or plated bullet within the case. The problem with this is the brass springs back a little and the lead bullet does not. This causes a reduction in neck tension and depending on the amount of reduction it could destroy all of the neck tension.

Motor

[MT Chambers]

A proper set of dies from a good maker has provision to taper crimp the .45 acp, so why waste money on anything more?

[Cmm_3940]

A proper set of dies from a good maker has provision to taper crimp the .45 acp, so why waste money on anything more?

Most die sets don't come with a separate crimp die? I like to set my turret up to seat and crimp in two consecutive operations when loading cast.

I bought the Lee FCD, because it was readily available, and knocked the carbide ring out before crimping the first cartridge. Now it's just a crimp die.

[375supermag]

I had major feed problems with .45ACP using RCBS carbide dies. I added a Hornady taper crimp die as a final step and all my feeding problems went away.

I now use a Hornady taper crimp die for all auto pistol cartridges. It does add another step but piece of mind with my reloads is worth the effort. What's another 500 strokes of the operating handle on a RockChucker for a batch of cartridges if it ensures reliable feeding?

[wrench man]

I use the Dillon crimp die; works fine.
Yeepp, the whole Dillon set for that matter.

[mdi]

FWIW: ferget the term "crimping" when thinking about semi-auto ammo. Neck tension holds the bullet in place as one just uses a taper crimp die to "de-flare" the case mouth; return the case mouth to spec. Actual crimping can and often does loosen the bullet especially for new reloaders that use too much crimp. The Lee FDC is a solution looking for a problem. Proper die adjustment makes the FCD a waste of time (No not a Lee hater, yep been there done that). I just remember the bizillions of 45 ACP rounds reloaded, successfully, before the FCD made it's appearance. No I'm not an old geezer that doesn't want change, I tried Lee's FCD and found it worthless. I really don't care what dies anyone uses, my main gripe is new reloaders are told to cover up their mistakes with an FCD, rather than fixing the problem...

jes an old reloaders opinion/experience.:bigsmyl2:

[montana_charlie]

I bought the Lee FCD, because it was readily available, and knocked the carbide ring out before crimping the first cartridge.
How did you knock the ring out?

CM

[RobS]

How did you knock the ring out?

CM

Take the adjusting knob off pull the crimp ring then find a socket large enough to catch the carbide ring. Simply try a few to see which one gives you the snuggest fit. You will need to heat the end of the die with a torch to loosen the adhesive. I heated mine to nearly cherry read and while in a vise I slid the socket with extension down the die then with one clean, easy blow with a hammer the ring will come out.

The head of a 44 mag brass is about the right diameter for a 45 ACP FCD. The trick is to heat the die.

[fouronesix]

I use a Lyman 45 ACP/45 Colt taper crimp die. Properly adjusted, it does exactly what's needed for the 45 ACP semi auto.

[montana_charlie]

The trick is to heat the die.
Thanks!

[pworley1]

The Lee factory crimp works for me.

[r1kk1]

I use a Dillon set. My wife has a cylinder for her revolver, I have a Kart barrel with a tight match grade or minimum spec chamber plus two other semiautos. Never has a problem with any of them. My crimp measures, if I remember right, 0.470". Works in all of mine and hers. My 1911 is a Bullseye pistol.

Take care

r1kk1

[BrianL]

I just bought the Lee die to load for my Ruger Blackhawk convertible. The RCBS dies, both taper and roll, do not seem repeatable in my Dillon and require testing each cartridge in the cylinder.

[Cmm_3940]

Take the adjusting knob off pull the crimp ring then find a socket large enough to catch the carbide ring. Simply try a few to see which one gives you the snuggest fit. You will need to heat the end of the die with a torch to loosen the adhesive. I heated mine to nearly cherry read and while in a vise I slid the socket with extension down the die then with one clean, easy blow with a hammer the ring will come out.

The head of a 44 mag brass is about the right diameter for a 45 ACP FCD. The trick is to heat the die.

It sounds like you did a neater job than I did. I used a drift punch and ended up knocking the ring out in pieces. I also heated the die to soften the adhesive. A large nut to put the die in and clamp in a vise also helps.

[r1kk1]

I just bought the Lee die to load for my Ruger Blackhawk convertible. The RCBS dies, both taper and roll, do not seem repeatable in my Dillon and require testing each cartridge in the cylinder.

Brian,

Some lessons I learned with revolvers and rimless cartridges. I've owned a .30 carbine BH, convertible 9mm BH, my wife's BH is now a custom five shot revolver with three cylinders, one dedicated to .45 acp/super cartridge, another cylinder for the 454 and the last is a 455 GNR which is a necked down 475 Linebaugh.

I would pull the cylinder on the .30 carbine and I was able to find two of the six holes were slightly tighter than the others. I used those two holes to check my full length sizing. Much to my amazement, I had to resize the brass again to get it to fit. It took me a little while using a RCBS carbide sizing die and then I switched to a steel die and problem went away. I don't think the carbide ring was reaching far enough down the case to size it properly. I used a taper crimp die and every round functioned flawlessly. This was an '80s purchase. I had a similar issue with the 9mm convertible but a simple shell holder swap solved it and for the life of me I don't know why. This was taper crimped also. My wife's BH functions 100% with my same loads for the 1911 Bullseye pistol. That cylinder is from a custom gunsmith and each round drops into the cylinder. Far cry from the convertible and .30 carbine factory cylinder.

134951

That's her's. My 500 Linebaugh Flattop with octagon barrel should be done soon!

take care

r1kk1

[TheDoctor]

Take the adjusting knob off pull the crimp ring then find a socket large enough to catch the carbide ring. Simply try a few to see which one gives you the snuggest fit. You will need to heat the end of the die with a torch to loosen the adhesive. I heated mine to nearly cherry read and while in a vise I slid the socket with extension down the die then with one clean, easy blow with a hammer the ring will come out.

The head of a 44 mag brass is about the right diameter for a 45 ACP FCD. The trick is to heat the die.

I do not remember who, but someone here posted the best solution I've seen yet. Swap the crimp die body with a powder body. Crimp plug fits, and so does the adjustment for the plug. Keeps the crimp die body intact in case you ever need it for something.

[RobS]

Yeah, I've done this too and it may have been me that suggested the powder through die usage. I've also made other dies from various lee dies just by inserting the other guts in different dies etc. The latest one I used a lee boolit seating die IIRC and made an expander plug to fit inside.