Muzzleloader advice needed.

[Cmm_3940]

I know almost nothing about muzzleloaders, but the idea of making my own BP is too cool to pass up. So, I need something to shoot it in, and was hoping for some suggestions.

here's my first ignorant attempt at selection criteria:


It must have either aperture sights, or be tapped and ready to mount a scope. My eyes do NOT function any more with open irons.
Traditional side lock is somewhat preferred because of the coolness factor, but inline is just fine too if you think that will work better for me.
wood or laminate preferred, but plastic is acceptable.
I prefer a longish LOP - I'm 6'4" with pretty long arms - so no stubby short stocks. I prefer a high comb if using a scope.
Uses will include but not necessarily be limited to paper, pots, pans, milk jugs, assorted unwanted veggies, and the occasional whitetail deer sized animal.
Caliber. .50? .54? 58? You tell me.
Projectiles. I'm guessing cast RBs or minie balls? Dumb question... Are all modern MLs rifled? I'm making assumptions based on having rifling.
Price point. Used, in the $300 range, but I can stretch if something is strongly recommended.


Based on this, are there any recommendations for what I should be looking for, even if just generalities? Is there anything in particular I should stay AWAY from? I realize I can get all sorts of answers to these questions via google, but I've been around this forum long enough to realize I can actually trust the answers I get here.



Thanks,

Chris

[Czech_too]

If you presently load for shotgun, then I would narrow the field to in-lines. No need to have/find percussion caps when you can use the 209's already on hand.

[dondiego]

If you need a scope, inlines can be found in abundance ready to go below $300. 50 cal.

[groovy mike]

If your objective is to shoot your own home made black powder. Don't worry too much about the firelock until you have made some BP. It might take you awhile to figure out.

[scattershot]

Find a T/C and never look back. There are scope mounts available for them, and they are accurate and reliable. I'd recommend .50 caliber, but just about anything you can find will do well for your purposes.

good luck!

[OverMax]

50 is the standard. 54 is a little more powerful. 58 relies on its impact energy & size. As far as stocks. You have a crescent style that's meant to be held tight and actually shot off the upper part of your arm verses the shoulder. And the typical shotgun style.
Like any modern rifle. Black powder rifles too. Need to be shouldered before their bought.__ "They all feel different when shouldered."


Are all (modern) MLs rifled? I would say most are. I've never seen a (inline) musket. Although maybe some other member has?


Projectiles. I'm guessing cast RBs or minie balls? Yep. And there use is based on a rifles twist rate. 1-28 or 1-32 are good shooters for bullets or sabot. 1-72 / 1-66 / 1-54 are great for patched round ball. 1-48 is a happy medium between slow & fast twist rates. So it can shoot just about anything you can force down its barrel. But the 1-48 barrel twist shows little preference to any normal B/P projectile. i.e. > Everything shoots good but not great.


Based on this, are there any recommendations for what I should be looking for, even if just generalities? For a starter rifle. A 50 cal is the most practical. Very important: How the rifle shoulders & how quick your eye's can focus on its barrel sights are perhaps the two most important one's.


Is there anything in particular I should stay AWAY from? New: Far East made rifles.__ Used: Rifles with a rusty or pitted bore and/or having a bulged barrel. And those rifles that are observed to be (not) taken care of by the previous owner. i.e. (bung up screws heads_ extra holes drilled_dents and dings galore & those serious looking scratches.)


but I've been around this forum long enough to realize I can actually trust the answers I get here.
Well ~~that a bit of Stretch there Chris.__ lol

Good luck with your purchase. And welcome to the b/P Sport sir.

[nhmikel]

Got an T/C Encore 209x50 Muzzleloader barrel Realtree camo if you decide to go in that direction

[Omnivore]

I believe you will find that the Lyman Trade Rifle is one of the better values out there. I have the Deerstakler, and the Trade Rifle is basically the same but with a slightly longer barrel and a metal buttplate. The tang comes pre-drilled and tapped for a Lyman aperture sight, with I have and I like a lot. Trade Rifle comes with the 48" twist, so it's good for round ball, and conicals up to about 350 grains in fifty caliber. I shoot PRB in mine, with a 100 yard zero, and it's taken more than a few white tails.

[fouronesix]

Before being dazzled by a saleman's pitch at a store (or on the net or at a gunshow), I'd also highly recommend something like the T/C Hawken/Renegade or equivalent "traditional" muzzleloader in 50 or 54 cal. If you consider the used market, there are quite a few good condition used guns out there for decent money, but it's a buyer beware situation. You'll need some guarantee that the bore is good. Or if looking at them in hand, you'll need a way to easily check. A muzzleloader bore light will be one of the best $10-15 investment you'll ever make. -similar to this- http://www.buffaloarms.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=163385

Also, notwithstanding, internet chatter, a good book or two on the subject would be an equally good investment. There are used books available... for saving money… because the principles don't change over time. The various Lyman books come to mind. Such as: Lyman Muzzleloaders Handbook, Lyman Black Powder Handbook and Loading Manual, etc.

[Cmm_3940]

Thanks to all that have responded so far. I've got some ideas now what I should be looking for. Now I need to do some research based on what's been posted here and do some shopping.

[Naphtali]

Chris:

Being in central Ohio, you have the opportunity to identify a National Muzzleloading Rifle Association affiliated club. NMLRA headquarters is in Friendship, IN. After locating a nearby club or NMLRA member, you can create opportunities to shoot a variety of guns with a variety of sights. AND you'll be able to have people, who have made beginner's errors, help you to avoid them.

Hope this helps.

[Outpost75]

For deer a .50 is great. If you live in elk or moose country a .54 is a good choice, though a .50 is adequate with proper loads. I use a 28" twist Green Mountain LRH barrel which does either Maxis or sabots. It will also do round balls if you keep the loads light. I use a Saeco 370-grain Maxi modified to a cup point by Www.hollowpointmold.com cast 1:40 tin/lead with either two Pyrodex pellets, 100 grains RS or 80 grains of P and have killed lots of deer with it. For varmints and off season practice I use .495 patchdd ball and 40 grains of P, which is pleasant and accurate in 28" twist. Barrel length is 26", 15/16" across flats full length bedded in Acraglas in TC Renegade stock with Lyman peep and XS post. The Meat Machine.

[smoked turkey]

I would recommend a sidelock rather than an inline (I have both) because in my experience they are much easier to clean than the in line design. Believe me you do have to be very thorough cleaning when done shooting either real black or the substitutes like Pyrodex. They are very corrosive and will start to rust the rifle pretty quickly. I just enjoy shooting the side lock more than the inline. For me and this is a personal thing that each shooter will have to decide for themselves, I like using the traditional barrel mounted sights or a tang mounted aperture rear sight. If you prefer a scope for your shooting I think I would lean toward the in line as they are almost always D & T for scope bases from the factory. For the first muzzy I would go with a 50 caliber since that is more or less the most common and will do what you want to do. If you take to shooting the front stuffer you will no doubt add other calibers and types to your ever growing collection. I also think the patched round ball is a good way to start because they are almost always accurate and plenty of deer have been killed with the PRB. I also think you should invest in a Lyman Black Powder handbook. They contain a world of good information.