The Rifle Stock

[Von Gruff]

The Rifle Stock

By Garry Keown.


Sections.


Rifle stocks. General
Selecting your blank. Walnut species and log cuts, grain flow and blank layout)
Hunting - shooting style and design paremeters.
Balance and handling
Stock Making. Inletting and shaping.
Stock finishing. Accessories and embelishments


Rifle Stocks in general.

Rifle stocks are the simple yet ergonomically complicated means by which we can hold onto the barrelled action and direct the bullet to a desired point of impact, and so the better the stock is suited to the particular hunter, the greater the degree of certainty there is that the bullet will get to the intended target impact point. While this may seem a simplistic statement, it is anything but, as there are almost an infinite number of variations of the rifle stock, from the purest hunting designs to the specialist target and benchrest items made from the traditional wood's through to laminates of wood or layers of spaceage carbon fibres with various resins plus fiberglass either solid or over hollow core or foam base, through aluminium and combinations of one or more of these materials.
Leaving aside all the specialised rifle uses and stock materials, the hunting rifle in its more traditional form will be the focus of this piece.
What distuingishes a good hunting stock from the myriad of poor to average factory stocks( and many so called custom stocks) is for the hunter to able to throw the rifle to his (or her) shoulder and immediatly have the butt tuck into the shoulder pocket with hands comfortably griping the wrist and forearm and the eye aligned with the sights. A properly balanced rifle will have a very large degree of influence in how the rifle comes to the shoulder and onto target with a correspondingly important part to play in how pointable it may be and how steady it sits in hand. The metal work as far as the barrel contour which effects weight and balance will be explored elsewhere but does contribute to the rifle's balance, pointability, and tracking virtues ( or otherwise) so cant be entirely dismissed when the traits of a good hunting rifle stock are being discussed. There should be no adjusting of posture or position and the finger should fall naturally, without stretching or cramping, to the trigger as the target is confirmed and the shot is ready to be released. Any adjustment of body or rifle will naturally effect the initial aim point and inevitably effect the accuracy of the shot. It is the hunters responsibility to identify the target, (LEAVING NO DOUBT) before the rifle is lifted and he should already be looking at the desired point of impact when the rifle is raised and be comfortably and strategically aligned with the sights allowing him to be immediately ready to release the shot. Without getting into shooting technicalities, it is a given fact that the first few seconds of a rifles hold on target are the steadiest when shooting off hand (with no external support) so it is naturally best to have a rifle stock that gives the hunter the immediate and natural positioning of the body and the rifle so as to take advantage of this. The longer a hunter holds the rifle in the un-supported aiming position while trying to get comfortable with any aspect of the stock design, then his chances of a successful shot diminish quite rapidly. A hunter who uses an external support for the rifle, (and he would do this for a longer shot at an undisturbed animal especially if he can not stalk closer) whether it be a a sling aid or resting on a day pack, the side of a tree, a natural ground feature or a set of shooting sticks can often be well suited by a stock that is less than a perfect "fit" simply because he has time to adjust to the position. However, having said that if a rifle stock is being made for a stalking hunter, and we all like to think of ourselves as stalking hunters, then the better the rifle stock is suited to the individual hunter then the probaility of a successful hunt if a desirable animal is suddenly encountered is so much higher. This is the prime reason that hunters have had custom stocks made that fitted them properly, rather than taking one off the rack that is designed for everybody but rarely fits anyone other than with the wonderful adaptability of our body.
A rifle stock has not only to afford the hunter with a comfortable device to hold onto while aiming the barrelled action, but should also hold the barrelled action in a non movable and non stressed position so that there are no external factors that effect the point of impact for the bullet. This is another area that mass produced stocks can not always be relied on to do and so the need for a custom stock arises, or at the least customising of the factory to better accomplish the necessary primary function in a reliable manner.
This can bring about a lengthy discussion on what a custom stock actually is but for the purposes of this exercise I will define a custom stock as one that is made with the particular hunters body shape and hunting style in mind, from a billet or blank of well dried and stable stock wood.

[Von Gruff]

Hunting - shooting style and design paremeters.

It may be apropriate to briefly touch on the begining of the common aproach to custom rifle stocks and rifles in general before we delve into specifics. If we leave aside the muzzle loaders and black powder cartridge rifles and concentrate on the smokless powdered cartridge bolt rifles from the turn to the first quarter of the 20th century we can look at the transition of the rifle from a military use to a purely sporting or hunting aplication. The modern rifle stock has differed little from these early stocks except for the provission of comb line to suit the predominant sighting equipment that is destined to be used.
When the first hunting rifles were produced, they were generally offshoots of military development that were initially used in the military configuration for use in the hunting fields in a protective or food gathering manner where thier somewhat heavy military style made them solidly dependable, reasonably afordable, widely available and well suited for the food suplemental purposes rather than specifically a sporting use to which they were now being put, and with the sporting amunitiion being produced, generally reliable. When they began to be adapted for the less sever conditions of the sporting hunt by very skilled craftsmen they also began to take on a svelte form that feedback was showing to be well suited to the particular hunting style of the majority of clients.
It must be understood that here I am talking of the begining of the split in the English gunmaking industry that branched from the purely military into the custom gunmakers that has left us with the famous names of the "London Trade" that are held to be the epitome of the sporting or custom rifle makers. Some of the Military rifle manufacturers like BSA in England and Mauser in Germany also had sporting rifles made in house that were adapted from the strict military style but by and large many of the custom gunmakers would buy in the barrelled action from the makers and with little or minimal metalwork being done, simply stock said barrelled actions. The Lee Speed and the Plesier Mauser were two early examples of the factory sporting rifle adapted in the makers factory for the sporting elite.

The Lee Metford military Rifle

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/My%20rifles%20stocks%20etc/Walnut%20-%20log%20cuts%20etc/1288250918_zpsaa43138d.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/My%20rifles%20stocks%20etc/Walnut%20-%20log%20cuts%20etc/1288250918_zpsaa43138d.jpg.html)

And the Lee Speed sporting rifle for the sporting gentlemen.
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/800px-BSArifles.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/800px-BSArifles.jpg.html)
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/WJefferyLeeSpeed_zpsb60f2452.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/WJefferyLeeSpeed_zpsb60f2452.jpg.html)

[Von Gruff]

The 1895 Mauser Military rifle

As lovely as this rifle is it is still the heavy military pattern

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/My%20rifles%20stocks%20etc/Walnut%20-%20log%20cuts%20etc/1895ChileanMauser_zps20b88cc7.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/My%20rifles%20stocks%20etc/Walnut%20-%20log%20cuts%20etc/1895ChileanMauser_zps20b88cc7.jpg.html)

And the Plezier rifle for the wealthy Burgher.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/My%20rifles%20stocks%20etc/Walnut%20-%20log%20cuts%20etc/BoerPleziercopy_zps47aaf763.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/My%20rifles%20stocks%20etc/Walnut%20-%20log%20cuts%20etc/BoerPleziercopy_zps47aaf763.jpg.html)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/My%20rifles%20stocks%20etc/Walnut%20-%20log%20cuts%20etc/725197_boer7x57_lav_3lcopy_zpsbe27e82e.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/My%20rifles%20stocks%20etc/Walnut%20-%20log%20cuts%20etc/725197_boer7x57_lav_3lcopy_zpsbe27e82e.jpg.html)

The 1903 Springfield military rifle

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/My%20rifles%20stocks%20etc/Walnut%20-%20log%20cuts%20etc/M1903-Springfield-Rifle_zpscf1638ee.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/My%20rifles%20stocks%20etc/Walnut%20-%20log%20cuts%20etc/M1903-Springfield-Rifle_zpscf1638ee.jpg.html)

And while it is not a factory sporter, Griffin and Howe defined what a sporting Springfield should be.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/My%20rifles%20stocks%20etc/Walnut%20-%20log%20cuts%20etc/GampH190330-06_zps2f2aedbc.jpg (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_14264860708148&key=354d60520f2c76c930c5c04f9ab39ae3&libId=i7bgtcmx01001o4p000DA1br3k7cp&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Fthe-rifle-stock-t440.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fs667.photobucket.com%2Fuser%2FVon Gruff%2Fmedia%2FMy%2520rifles%2520stocks%2520etc%2 FWalnut%2520-%2520log%2520cuts%2520etc%2FGampH190330-06_zps2f2aedbc.jpg.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Frefe rence-and-stickies-f26.html%3Fsid%3D342105a9462e03c32dac5e3eec51f524&title=MLCnFriends%20%E2%80%A2%20View%20topic%20-%20The%20rifle%20Stock&txt=)

[Von Gruff]

There have been other European and to a lessor extent American streams of influence in gun stock design, and while the Mauser factory continued to produce fine sporting rifles it was the English custom gunmakers who bought about the style of hunting rifle stock that has come down to todays exceptional makers who have retained many of the early findings while developing expanded design types as trends in shooting style have changed over the years.

Rigtby is one of the very best of the English gunmakers who built rifles on the 98 Mauser action.

333 Jeffery
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Jeffery333Rimless04.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/Jeffery333Rimless04.jpg.html)

350 Rigby
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Rigby350Magnum001.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/Rigby350Magnum001.jpg.html)

WDM Bells 275 Rigby
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Bells275Rigby2_zps04226407.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/Bells275Rigby2_zps04226407.jpg.html)

Where once it was a walking, stalking style of hunting that required a rifle to be dimensioned for rapid shouldering and offhand shooting, where many of todays rifles are more inclined to be suited to supported shooting , from prone through to standing, and so the designs have changed in minor ways to accomadate the shooters needs with a more deliberate style of shooting becoming the norm for many.

[Von Gruff]

The more modern style.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/hw-308-full-right-scoped-sm_zps84edf80a.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/hw-308-full-right-scoped-sm_zps84edf80a.jpg.html)

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/IMG_9744_zpsf0924fda.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/IMG_9744_zpsf0924fda.jpg.html)

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/tcblueoval.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/tcblueoval.jpg.html)

[Von Gruff]

Some terms and thier purpose in stock design are - - -


Length of pull,
Drop at comb and heel,
Pitch,
Cast,and toe

In other aspects of design like the wrist circumference and curveture, the forearm length and fullness, we get into dimensions that have a profound effect on the weight, "feel" and handling of a rifle stock but balance is often the most important as it effects the speed of mount, sight allignment and the swing. There are not as many situations today where the walking, stalking hunter may jump shoot an animal as often hunts are guided and the hunt is quite controlled in that an animal is sighted and stalked with a rested deliberate shot being taken, but a well fitted rifle is a joy to use in any circumstances. It must be said that the factory stocked rifles, while not perfect and in many cases not even very good but they all will alow a hunter a modicum of good usebility for many, the custom stock is specific to the individual.

Length of Pull.
The length of pull or distance from the centre of the butt to the centre of the trigger can greatly effect the shooter comfort and ease of use of the rifle and the general 13 1/2 L O P of factory rifles to suit the average 5 ft 10 inch tall man is the first change that is often made by altering the recoil pad thickness with or without spacers to effect a more user friendly stock length. There are a couple of broad brushstroke generalisations that are often used to find a starting point for L O P for an individual shooter. One is to take a persons height and from the suposed average 5 ft 10 with 13 1/2 L O P starting point, subtract an 1/8 inch from the L O P for every inch under 5 ft 10 of the shooters height and add an 1/8 inch to the 13 1/2 inches for every inch over 5ft 10 of shooter height. The simple expedient of holding the rifle with the arm bent at 90 degrees and having the butt in the crook of the elbow really has minimal benefit as the tendency to compromise the hold either by stretching slightly or cramping can lead to eroneous information. Then there is body shape and a heavy set shooter will have a different need than a lightly bodied one. Usually though by the time a custom stock is being contemplated, an ideal L O P has been established simply by having shot or altered previous stocks that has led to the intention of having a custom one made. The L O P also has an effect on how easily the rifle action can be worked while still held in the shooting position where too long a LOP will result in the rifle needing to be removed from the shoulder to cycle the bolt. A too short L O P may have the shooters nose smacked by his own thumb as the rifle recoiles but in general a slightly shorter L O P is more user friendly than a slightly longer one.

Drop at comb and heel.
This measurment is taken from the centre of the bore in rifles which should also be the top line of the forend of the stock as the barrelled action should ideally be inletted to half the depth of the barrel for its entire length is, so it is quite a simple matter to plot it onto the stock blank at layout time. The sighting system being used on the rifle has an effect on the line of comb and consequently, the drop at nose and heel.
Drop at comb nose is so the eye can be alligned with the sights and a simple way to start the calculation once the sighting arrangment has been decided is to find the centre of the sight height from the centre of the bore line or top of stock forearm line and note the measurment. Then take a short length of inch dowl and hold it hard under your cheekbone where a rifle stock would rest and measure from the top of the dowel up to the centre of your eye. Either you are measuring for someone else or doing it in front of a mirror so you can read the rule, if doing it for yourself. This measurement is deducted from the sight height and that should be close to the point of comb for a straight combed rifle or about two inches back from the comb nose for a stock that has more drop at heel than the nose. For example, if a bridge mounted aperture sight is being used that has the aperture an 1 1/4 above the bore line and you have a 2 inch cheekbone to centre of eye measurment then taking 1 1/4 from 2 inches means the drop at comb nose for a straight combed rifle should be 3/4 inch which nicely clears the bolt cycling on a Mauser action. The bolt throw has to be taken into account but this is usually of no concern with open sights or a low mounted scope but when the larger objective belled scopes that seem to be proliferating now are going to be used, it is then that suplementary comb extensions are added or adjustable combs incorporated into the stock to get the eye high enough and still have firm contact between cheek and stock comb. Some of the early stocks that were designed for open sights and having a scope fitted would have the particularly tall scope mounts of the time and a shooter would have to hold his face quite a way above the comb to see through the scope and while this did not make for the best results some very fine hunting rifles were equiped like this with many animals bought to grass.
The open sighted rifle will have a much different line of comb, or drop at nose and heel to a scope sighted rifle and when a shooters neck length, shoulder configuration and shooting style are added to the different types of comb line then it is evident that there can be no formulaic answer to this design paremeter. A long necked shooter with sloping shoulders will need much more drop at heel which is why the montecarlo type of comb line came to be, although almost never with open sights, while a shortnecked shooter with square shoulders will need much less drop for the same sighting system. This is where experience will be needed to ascertain the correct drop at heel for the particular shooter -rifle and cartridge combination. The least drop at heel that can comfortably allow the shooter to allign the sights will greatly effect how the rifle recoils and again depending on what cartridge the rifle is chambered for will effect how quickly the rifle action may be worked to reload another cartridge while coming down out of recoil and have the sights re-alligned for a second shot. A rifle recoils along the bore line and if this is significantly higher than the heel of the rifle will result in muzzle rise which can mitigate some of the recoild impulse and many have found this descreases the felt recoil over the same recoil in a rifle with much less drop at heel which has more straight line recoil with no rise to take some of the energy friom the shoulder. The recoil period is when the bolt can be cycled so the rifle is back on target with a fresh cartridge chambered when recoil impulse has dissipated.

[Von Gruff]

Pitch
Pitch is the angle of the butt compared to the bore line and again has quite an effect on the handling of a rifle and in particular the recoil against the shoulder.
Neutral pitch is when the butt is held against a wall, the bore will be horozontal to the groundl. Negative pitch is when the toe of the stock is shorter than the heel so that the bore line is pointed toward the ground where positive pitch is where the toe is linger than the heel and so the bore line would point slightly upward from the horozontal. The reason for pitch on the butt angle is so that the greatest amount of the butt is against the shoulder pocket to spread the recoil over the greatest area and make it feel less than it would if only the toe of the stock was placed high on the shoulder and the full recoil impulse was directed through the one point of contact. Again this is where body shape is the deciding factor as is shooting style because a heavy chested man who stands upright will want some negative pitch although too much can have the butt rise up the slope of the shoulder during recoil, while the same heavy chested shooter who habitually leaned forward when shooting would need slight positive pitch. A lightly built shooter who stands upright to shoot may benifit from neutral pitch while the same shooter who leans forward to shoot may need more positive pitch than the heavy chested counterpart.


Cast.
Cast is not often incorporated into stocks now as shooting styles have changed. Broadly speaking, when the early 20 century custom stockmakers were perfecting thier craft (in England in particular) they were greatly influenced by the needs of the English sport shooter who did the majority of his shooting for small game and birds with the shotgun and while there was often rough upland shooting there was many more estate shoots that had the shooter on a stand with the birds driven toward him. This called for a certain style of shooting where he would generally be stood square to the line of drive so he could swivel left or right as needs be to take the bird on the wing or a rabbit or hare on the move. Standing square to the shot and usually quite upright for overhead shots, meant that certain design aspects were bought to the stock to ensure the quickly mounted gun was alligned with the intended target to ensure accurate tracking for instant kills of a single bird or a follow through onto a second bird for a brace. A very well fitted stock is required for this type of shooting and the stock makers understanding and expertise was carried over into the rifle stock fitting as the shooter would generally expect his rifle to handle with the same point and shoot capability when it came to game animal hunting. Cast can be either on or off and simply means the stock is shaped so that the heel is to one side or the other ot the centre line of the bore, usually dictated by the right or left hendedness of the shooter.
Cast on for a right handed shooter would have the heel of the stock to the right of the centre line of the bore when looking down on the gun is held in hand, with cast off being the opposite and having the heel to the left although this would be highly unusual.
A right handed shooter standing square to the line of shot would have cast on so that the barrels lined up straight ahead while the butt angled out toward the shoulder pocket and allowed the sight aquisition that this type of shooting dictated. Today rifle shooters are more likely to stand angled toward the line of shot so the need for cast has diminished somewhat and with the addition of cheekpieces to some stocks has resulted in almost a cast on situation so the changed shooting position and style has altered the design needs for many shooters.
Toe in or out is where the toe of the stock is placed further from the centerline of the butt and is usually worked into the stock design because it allows a heavy chested shooter ( male or female) to have a more equitable fitting of the butt to the shoulder pocket where a neutral toe might dig into the chest muscle and cause a cant to the rifle hold.

From the rear of the rifle for a right handed shooter this is the relationship of the butt to the center of barrel

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/cast-off_zpsf88b12d7.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/cast-off_zpsf88b12d7.jpg.html)

Exaggerated view with that on the left being again for a right handed shooter and on the right for a left eye dominant right handed shooter.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/cast-off2_zpsb011bb78.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/cast-off2_zpsb011bb78.jpg.html)

[Von Gruff]

Walnut species.
Log cuts.
Selecting your blank

Walnut species.

The walnut trees that have originated in Persia came to England via the early Romans because the nut was so highly prised.The thin shelled walnut, Juglans Regia is Persian or common walnut and is also known as English walnut because of the English sailors who then spread it round the world on thier travels and so it is also known as Royal, Circassian, French, Turkish and by the place names of many other areas it has been propogated with the soil types, climate and growing conditions of many places in the new world like New Zealand and Australia producing some exceptional stockwood blanks.
American black walnut or claro is another major walnut species used for stockwood along with the English - American black walnut hybrid which is known as Bastogne from bastard walnut.
English walnut is generally known to be hard and is often thought to be more easily worked but the growing conditions have an enormous effect of the grain structure and colour, from golds through to chocolates with mineral streaking of greens and blacks, marble cake, mottling, feathered crotch, fiddleback being some of the many grain types and colourings which influences desirability and therefore price. Black and Bastogne are generally said to have a shorter and more chip prone grain structure which can make the use of English walnut and its derivitives less problematic when checkering and other finisheing touches are being atended to.

Log cuts.

The cutting of a walnut tree to get the best from the available wood is a most thought provoking process for the sawyers. There is much study of the tree to asertain where to make the initial cuts as the difference between cutting it right and just citting it can be many thousands of dollars worth of gunstocks, either superb blanks bringing out the very best the log has to offer against getting more blanks that have much less appeal and subsequent value. Logs that produce the most spectacular blanks have large root structures and heavy branches and sometimes forked trunks where the grain can have the most spectacular patterns.

A log may not be the nice round tree trunk that allows a straight forward series offcuts and very careful cutting is required on some of the very big or multifaceted logs.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/imagesCAU1W9BA_zps866d8f9a.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/imagesCAU1W9BA_zps866d8f9a.jpg.html)

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/imagesCAI1EIDK_zpsb61b9fbc.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/imagesCAI1EIDK_zpsb61b9fbc.jpg.html)

But in every case these are the essential types of grain that are gained from the log.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/StockBlankcuts_zps35944988.jpg (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_142648645605314&key=354d60520f2c76c930c5c04f9ab39ae3&libId=i7bgtcmx01001o4p000DA1br3k7cp&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Fthe-rifle-stock-t440.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fs667.photobucket.com%2Fuser%2FVon Gruff%2Fmedia%2FRifles%2FStockBlankcuts_zps3594498 8.jpg.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Frefe rence-and-stickies-f26.html%3Fsid%3D342105a9462e03c32dac5e3eec51f524&title=MLCnFriends%20%E2%80%A2%20View%20topic%20-%20The%20rifle%20Stock&txt=)

[Von Gruff]

This is a superb example of a quarter sawn blank

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/quartersaw_zpsdf732b1c.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/quartersaw_zpsdf732b1c.jpg.html)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/makku20047_zpsdd761a1c.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/makku20047_zpsdd761a1c.jpg.html)

And a rifle from a quartersawn blank

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/sling20004_zpsd565f4f2.jpg (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_142648654611616&key=354d60520f2c76c930c5c04f9ab39ae3&libId=i7bgtcmx01001o4p000DA1br3k7cp&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Fthe-rifle-stock-t440.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fs667.photobucket.com%2Fuser%2FVon Gruff%2Fmedia%2FRifles%2Fsling20004_zpsd565f4f2.jp g.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Frefe rence-and-stickies-f26.html%3Fsid%3D342105a9462e03c32dac5e3eec51f524&title=MLCnFriends%20%E2%80%A2%20View%20topic%20-%20The%20rifle%20Stock&txt=)

Flat sawn blanks

[Von Gruff]

Flat sawn blanks

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/flatsaw_1_zpsaafdb88e.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/flatsaw_1_zpsaafdb88e.jpg.html)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/PA032536_zps67c9aae7.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/PA032536_zps67c9aae7.jpg.html)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/IMG_9744_zpsf0924fda.jpg (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_142648657801317&key=354d60520f2c76c930c5c04f9ab39ae3&libId=i7bgtcmx01001o4p000DA1br3k7cp&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Fthe-rifle-stock-t440.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fs667.photobucket.com%2Fuser%2FVon Gruff%2Fmedia%2FRifles%2FIMG_9744_zpsf0924fda.jpg. html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Frefe rence-and-stickies-f26.html%3Fsid%3D342105a9462e03c32dac5e3eec51f524&title=MLCnFriends%20%E2%80%A2%20View%20topic%20-%20The%20rifle%20Stock&txt=)

This is a rift cut blank and not one that is as desirable for future grain stability in a rifle.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/riftcut_zps128a9236.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/riftcut_zps128a9236.jpg.html)

[Von Gruff]

Selecting your blank.

A big difference in value and cost is atributed to the various log cuts that become rifle blanks it the beauty of the blank is often very much in the buyers so is a very personal choice. A board or flat cut blank is generally a stronger cut in that there is the longets grain structures and the colour and graining that may be less than spectacular in the full blank may come alive when the shaping is done and even those blanks that are on the verge of being rift cut can have some very good appeal as well. A little more care needs to be taken when selecting a rift cut blank though as the quartering grain may run out in the wrist area and the forearm can cause uneven stability. A quartersawn blank is more often taken from the straight grained part of the tree and while it can provide a very stable stock there is often much less in the way of grain patterns with the dark and light stripes of the anular rings more in evidence.

There are a numbers of areas where grain flow is very important in the rifle stock especially where a heavier recoiling rifle may be concerned. This is ,where the board sawn blank really shines but the grain flow in the wrist and the forearm must be a high priority and the flow into the toe is where it really needs to be following the bottom line of the stock especially if a steel, horn or other inflexable type of butt plate is to be used, as a heavy blow on the toe of the butt plate can cause the stock to break away through this area in some cases. The cartridge the rifle will be chambered for and the style of hunting the shooter intends and his monetry reserve will have the deciding influence in the choice of the blank, however it must be stated that in the heavier recoiling rifles that fancy grain must be of secondary importance to the grain flow to withstand the recoil stresses.

These are examples of some of the finest stock blanks and they will cost immeasurably more than a plainer blank that may very well make into a superbly strong rifle for a big bore and may indeed be more desirable for that purpose. A plat sawn blank that runes straight and true along the top edge of the blank and runs through the wrist is the best option for all heavy rifles. Lighter recoiling rifles can be stocked is very pretty wood that may have less desirable grain flow .

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http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/c134_1.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/c134_1.jpg.html)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/a1183_1_zpsf884b3b4.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/a1183_1_zpsf884b3b4.jpg.html)

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/rs_goodwood_200912-b_zpsf3e1d1af.jpg (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_142648660516818&key=354d60520f2c76c930c5c04f9ab39ae3&libId=i7bgtcmx01001o4p000DA1br3k7cp&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Fthe-rifle-stock-t440.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fs667.photobucket.com%2Fuser%2FVon Gruff%2Fmedia%2FRifles%2Frs_goodwood_200912-b_zpsf3e1d1af.jpg.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Frefe rence-and-stickies-f26.html%3Fsid%3D342105a9462e03c32dac5e3eec51f524&title=MLCnFriends%20%E2%80%A2%20View%20topic%20-%20The%20rifle%20Stock&txt=)

[Von Gruff]

Balance and handling
A balanced rifle is one that regardless of the weight, (having the greater felt portion between the hands) and the stockmaker, in conjunction with the gunsmiths barrel length and profile choice, will make the stock to achieve this end with judicious shaping of the various portions of the stock , working toward having a rifle that is an apropriate weight to mitigate the recoil of the cartridge the rifle is chambered for, while endevouring to have the rifle feel well balanced so that is has good handling and pointing capabilities regardless of the finished weight. Of course the barrel profile and any action work with intended sighting devices included will all have been selected at planning time with a final goal in mind so the weight of the stockwood can have a dramatic effect on the expected total. Many have found a well figured piece of dense walnut may add a lb or more to a stock so the choice of the blank is probably one of the more time consuming decisions that needs to be made. The weight and the balance are two of the factors that go toward the handling characteristics of a rifle.
As noted above, the focus of this piece is a well balanced, quick handling hunting rifle, so after the initial dimensions of the LOP, comb line, pitch and cast are decided on there are other important dimension to be taken into account that effect the balance , the weight and ultimately, the handling of the rifle.
Of course the barrel profile will have a dramatic effect on the balance and handling of the rifle but it will also play a role in how the recoil is enacted against the shooter. A 9 to 10 lb rifle that recoils in the over 50ft lb of recoil range, may be from very comfortable, to very undesirable to shoot, depending on where the weight is situated.
If we take the natural handling balance point to be at the forward action bolt (or within an inch of it either way) with the magazine filled, so that when the rifle is held in a shooting position, with one hand gripping the wrist and the other the forend, they will be almost equally spaced either side of the balance point and this promotes desirable handling atributes. The old English makers aimed to have 60% of the weight between the hands and worked a compromise between barrel profile, stockwood density and shaping to achieve this. Splinter forends, cheekless combs, elegantly thined wrists and narrow butts were all measures made to bring a balance to the particular rifles handling needs dependant on the cartridge being chambered.
A light barrel on a heavy stock with the weight centered behind the handling balance point, even back as far as the rear action bolt, will allow the barrel to rise very fast and cause the comb to slap the face. This also effects handling as while the rifle will swing very quickly onto target, it will be much more difficult to hold steady, especially if you have been walking hard or uphill and might be blowing a bit.
If on the other hand, the barrel is a very heavy profile, the weight may be centered much further forward, maybe even up to 6 inches ahead of the handling balance point. This will make the rifle very muzzle heavy and much slower to get started on, and stoping a swing coming onto the target. Muzzle rise will be reduced in recoil but without the natural balance between the hands the butt is not as secure and can move under recoil.

These areas will greatly effect the final stocks handling ability.

The grip curve and the relationship of the trigger finger to the trigger.
The circumference of the grip.
The length and circumference of the forend.
Thickness of the stock through the various parts of the stock.



For anyone contemplating having a stock made or making one for themselves there is no "formula" that will get a good fitting stock as there are so many variables in shooting stance, body conformity and comfort ideals and so there is an experience quotent needed in the setting out of the stock.
The first line to be drawn on the stock blank is the bore line and as this is also the top edge of the forearm, is the datum from which all other lines and measurments are taken. I like to have a pattern drawn of the intended stock on sections of 1/8 in ply or similar and place the pattern on the blank to make the best use of the grain structure in the forend back through the action and into the wrist, although the toe of the stock needs attention to grain direction if all weaknesses are to be avoided. Some have their patterns on clear perspex so the grain lines can be seen. The grain in the top of the stock needs to be checked to make sure it runs true to the line of the stock rather than diagonally across the stock which leads to weakness and or warping danger at the very least. The ends of the stock will give more information as to the grain direction with either verticle or horozontal showing flat or quarter sawn. Try to stear away from a rift sawn blank and any one that has grain lines running out anywhere through the wrist (either on the top or the side)

When the pattern position is established and the bore line is marked it is best to then dress the stock so that the boreline then becomes the top edge of the stock. Now with the pattern in place the trigger position should be marked in conjunction with the grip curve and from here the action screws can be marked which then dictates the action markout and so the inletting can begin.

[Von Gruff]

Stock inletting and shaping

Stock inletting.

Wether by hand or machine, the barrelled action needs to be fitted down into the stock blank. Here we concentrate on hand work and so a colletion of very sharp chisels and scrapers are required. The larger volume of wood removal can be augmented by carefull drilling, preferably with a drill press to keep things square to the top line and from where the stock is rested as the drilling for the action screws are made, along with the mag well prelinary removal that is finished with chisel and scraper. Anyone contemplating doing this work should have a clear understanding of wood working methods as this is not the place to learn care and control of these tools and how the grain of the wood can have varying degrees of cutting ability with the potential for spliting, chiping and other possible stock destroying results of careless work. Slow and carefull is the only advise that can be offered with the liberal use of a smoker (pics of smokers), inletting black or other action marking methods so the marked areas can be attended to. Care needs to be taken to check for draft on the vertical areas of the action, with draft being a minor widening of the metal as it seats into the wood to ensure a tight wood to metal fit on assembly. The barrel channel can be opened up with special barrel channel rasps or it can be carefully rough cut by chisel and then coarse sand or emery paper wrapped around various sized dowels can be used till it is close then finer grades of paper untill there is either a tightly fitted or floated barrel to chanel clearance.

The inletting is a particularly important part of the building process, simply because the accuracy of the finished rifle will depend to a large extent on how well the barrelled action nestles into its stock. There is tradition that says it should look as if the metal has grown out of the wood and while this is a laudable intent, there are places where there needs to be clearance to ensure the prolonged integrity of the rifle.
For a heavy recoiling rifle there needs to be clearance around the rear of the tang, and any pillar between the tang and the bottom metal needs an oversized hole for the action screw so that the pillar is not driven rearwards (potentially causing spliting into the wrist) due to the wood sourounding the mag well flexing as the action, locked into the stock by the recoil lug tries to drive back to the rear.
The recoil lug needs clearance at the sides and to the front to facilitate the easy removal of the action from the stock.
There needs to be clearance around the barrel from the chamber forward with everything else fitted tight and true. If a forend tip is required the forarm is cut to the desired length and the block of buffalo horn, ebony or other exotic wood is doweled and glued into position before the final barrel channel work is done.

Shaping is the next most important part of the process. Obviously the understanding of the previously discussed design paremeters in the form of the length of pull, comb and heel drop, pitch and cast both at the heel and toe if required, have been drawn into the outline. The grip cap and recoil pad is marked into position and fitted so that their outline can determine the shape of these areas and with plane, rasps, files, chisels and various grades of sand paper the desired finished shape is bought into the light of day. This is where the knoweledgable stockmaker may make subtle adjustments to the various areas of the stock to get the balance spoken of above that will bring the handling characteristics that are so desirable in a stalking rifle.
There are many different aproaches to the butt plate-recoil pad and from full steel plates to toe and heel caps, the variety is only limited by the purpose the rifle will be put to and the level of recoil that needs mitigating.

From plain to fancy and solid to skeletonised.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/imagesCAZ2DEEB_zps866c357b.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/imagesCAZ2DEEB_zps866c357b.jpg.html)

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[Von Gruff]

Butt plates and recoil pads.

For the rear end of the rifle from the soft pad for the heavy recoilers to the fancy and engraved steel plates that may be solid or skeletonised and maybe just to protect the heel and toe.
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/opplanet-pachmayr-skeet-recoil-pad-d752b-black-w-black-base-medium-1-0-thick_zps4406320a.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/opplanet-pachmayr-skeet-recoil-pad-d752b-black-w-black-base-medium-1-0-thick_zps4406320a.jpg.html)

Buffalo horn

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/31020butt20plate_zps479f79c4.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/31020butt20plate_zps479f79c4.jpg.html)

Solid and engraved

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/classic-2506-buttplate_zpsaab758f3.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/classic-2506-buttplate_zpsaab758f3.jpg.html)

With traps for acutrements
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/imagesCA2F32CX_zps0b06e068.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/imagesCA2F32CX_zps0b06e068.jpg.html)

Skeletonised

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/7x57StalkingRifle002.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/7x57StalkingRifle002.jpg.html)

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/imagesCAXXQFVP_zps9e34dcf7.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/imagesCAXXQFVP_zps9e34dcf7.jpg.html)

Heel and toe caps.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/imagesCAEJT3LY_zps229df7dc.jpg (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_142648705159220&key=354d60520f2c76c930c5c04f9ab39ae3&libId=i7bgtcmx01001o4p000DA1br3k7cp&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Fthe-rifle-stock-t440.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fs667.photobucket.com%2Fuser%2FVon Gruff%2Fmedia%2FRifles%2FGrip%2520caps%2520and%252 0butt%2520plates%2FimagesCAEJT3LY_zps229df7dc.jpg. html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Frefe rence-and-stickies-f26.html%3Fsid%3D342105a9462e03c32dac5e3eec51f524&title=MLCnFriends%20%E2%80%A2%20View%20topic%20-%20The%20rifle%20Stock&txt=)

[Von Gruff]

When everything is as it should be, the finishing can be contemplated and it needs to be on a surface that has been sanded down with a wet and dry paper graded at least in the 400 and preferably in the 600 grit range.
The stock is then wetted with a cloth dippedinto a bowl of hot water and left to dry so that for the whickering process to lift any fiber ends that are then sanded off again with the 600 grit paper. The wetting and whiskering needs done at least twice and depending on the density of the particular wood being worked on, may need doing 3 or 4 times until the wetting raises no more whiskers.
There are many different ways of putting a finish into the wood surface to ensure that there is no water soakage possible and any atmospheric humidity flucuations are not going to be able to migrate into the wood causing swelling, warping and accuracy issues.
All surfaces must be treated an the grip cap and butt plate or recoil pad need to be removed for this to be accomplished.
The various comercial finishes will come with their own instructions but I prefer the time tested pure tung oil. The oil is cut 50/50 with vegetabe turps and the stock is swamped with this mix every 5 minutes or so until the uptake slows down and then after another 15 minutes I wipe the stock down hard with a lint free cloth. Left for 24 hours the same 50/50 mix is then rubed into the stock using 600 grit W&D paper and it goes without saying that following the grain with nthe paper is how this is done. This creates a light slurry on the surface of the stock and this is rubed in, in a circular motion with the bare hands and again after 15 min to a half hour the cloth is used to lightly wipe off the excess.
This precess is repeated daily untill the pores are all filled and then the stock is rubed back down to the surface with the fine W&D.
Now the actual finih is applied using the undiluted pure oil and is done by putting a few drops into the hand and rubbing it into the wood. The less is more certainly applies in this operation and rubbinh briskly to create warmth and leaves the surface with just the faintest wet look.
Again this needs doing daily but the purpose is the have the oil in the wood rather than on the surface.
There is a tradition that says you need a coat a day for a week, and coat a week for a month, a coat a month for a year and a coat a year for life. I have found on the few good quality walnut stocks I have been priveledged to build I have done the first 7 or 8 coats on a daily basis and then every two days after that for up to 20 coats with the lasy coat rubbed with a coarse cloth so that there is a low sheen or eggshell lustre to the wood with a depth of colour that is a treat for the senses. Patience is required and amply rewarded.

[Von Gruff]

The checkering is undertaken after the finish is applied and the finished rifle is ready to show the promise of the dream.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/hensley-last-full-right_zps174492ec.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/Grip%20caps%20and%20butt%20plates/hensley-last-full-right_zps174492ec.jpg.html)

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[Von Gruff]

Any engraving is an embellishment that is often added to the rifle.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/404Oberndorfengraving.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/404Oberndorfengraving.jpg.html)

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http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/LegacyPhotos097_zpsdab71b47.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/LegacyPhotos097_zpsdab71b47.jpg.html)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/MinimauserGCcompletecopy_zpsae3848bf.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/MinimauserGCcompletecopy_zpsae3848bf.jpg.html)


http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/MiniMauserfloorplate004ps_zps7fc3113d.jpg (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_142648725126423&key=354d60520f2c76c930c5c04f9ab39ae3&libId=i7bgtcmx01001o4p000DA1br3k7cp&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Fthe-rifle-stock-t440.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fs667.photobucket.com%2Fuser%2FVon Gruff%2Fmedia%2FRifles%2FMiniMauserfloorplate004ps _zps7fc3113d.jpg.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Frefe rence-and-stickies-f26.html%3Fsid%3D342105a9462e03c32dac5e3eec51f524&title=MLCnFriends%20%E2%80%A2%20View%20topic%20-%20The%20rifle%20Stock&txt=)

[Von Gruff]

Then you will need something to carry that precious rifle from the safe to the hunting ground.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/cases50962.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/cases50962.jpg.html)

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/imagesCAD9J0X7_zpsb897716e.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/imagesCAD9J0X7_zpsb897716e.jpg.html)

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/Case2004129120top_zpsbf1c15e6.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/Case2004129120top_zpsbf1c15e6.jpg.html)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icon_reimg_loading.gifhttp://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/english20rifle_zps2d6433e6.jpg (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/VonGruff/media/Rifles/english20rifle_zps2d6433e6.jpg.html)

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Rifles/imagesCAMMKC3N_zps2ae9124e.jpg (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_142648728060424&key=354d60520f2c76c930c5c04f9ab39ae3&libId=i7bgtcmx01001o4p000DA1br3k7cp&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Fthe-rifle-stock-t440.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fs667.photobucket.com%2Fuser%2FVon Gruff%2Fmedia%2FRifles%2FimagesCAMMKC3N_zps2ae9124 e.jpg.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fmlcnfriends.freeforums.org%2Frefe rence-and-stickies-f26.html%3Fsid%3D342105a9462e03c32dac5e3eec51f524&title=MLCnFriends%20%E2%80%A2%20View%20topic%20-%20The%20rifle%20Stock&txt=)

[Artful]

:goodpost:
GREAT WRITEUP
- Fabulous Pictures
- some really wonderful wood

[M-Tecs]

:goodpost:
GREAT WRITEUP
- Fabulous Pictures
- some really wonderful wood

Plus one on what Artful said!!!!!!!!!!!

[waksupi]

Excellent posts! There are a couple points I am not in full agreement with, but if we all did things the same way, we would all be married to the same woman.
The .333 Jeffery wood grain in grip area is a bit questionable if a rifle is in a hard recoiling chambering. All in all, some great examples of some fine work!

[Red River Rick]

Too bad one's bank account wasn't bottomless..................One can only hope and dream.

Thanks for sharing.

RRR

[leebuilder]

Thanks for sharing, if you write a book i will buy a copy.
love the pics.
you are an artist.

[shooter93]

I have a few decent upper end rifles that were made for me and a few more in the works. I've always worked on the theory that I'd prefer one of them to any 10 factory rifles ever made....to each their own though. Custom is the most abused word when it comes to many thing. It's not assembling parts but rather "making" the gun to a standard. And Exhibition is a very abused word when grading wood for stocks. First thing I always do when I'm shown a blank is turn it over. It's getting that beautiful grain through the stock on both sides that make it a very high grade blank....and you have some very nice ones there. A guy who cuts huge English trees up for stocks once showed me how the studies the log, usually a large fork, and how he'll turn it because his first cut is everything. It will determine how many of the best blanks he'll get out of the log. It's an art and a science.

[Butler Ford]

Awesome! Thank you!

BF

[Von Gruff]

Just so there is no misunderstanding the pictures in the post are not my work (except for one), and apart from that, everything else is there as an example I have seen on the net and had downloaded for my own enjoyment. I should have noted the makers and owners so they could be acknowledged but hadn't done so and when I decided to put this piece together they were/are used as illustration for the various aspects of the rifle stock and its embelishment.

[leebuilder]

Thanks for the write up, just the same. Lots of wicked info in one excellent write up.
your other post on restocking those lees is work of an artist, you probley are one of those guys that make that level of work look easy, like a realy good guitar player. I suffer from "sauceagefingeritus".
Thanks