Derimming 22

[jcw1970]

How much pressure do you guys have to apply to derim the case? I'm using an unmarked derim die with a Lee cast and rce lube and it's a pia. I haven't drilled any holes to change the linkage yet. Any thoughts would help, cause if it's that rough to derim, I'm just going to buy jackets. LOL.

[Smokin7mm]

I have done some derimming on my rockchucker press as the dies I had at the time were for a reloading press. It helped if I put a longer handle that has a bend down for a better leverage angle. Mount the press lower so you can stand over it and put your weight down. That helped but nothing helped as much as getting a derimming die set up for my walnut hill swaging press. Derimming is sooooooooooooooooooo much easier.

Bret

[Pipefitter]

You may want to try moving the die up in the press so that you are just removing the rim with the first stroke, then screw the die deeper in the press and run the cases all the way through on the second pass. A reloading press has most of its mechanical advantage at the end of the stroke, and the hardest part is getting the rim to iron out.

[257]

are your 22 cases annealed or not? do you sort them by manfs do you lube them well I have a dave corbin derim die and have not had many issues. I do use a csp-1 press which I think has pretty good leverage . a longer arm may help but you could damage dies with more pressure in some instances

[jcw1970]

Got it. Had the handle setup like a reloader. Moved it to be at at 45 degree angle. Now derims like butter.

[jimbull34]

I have made and sold derimmers for the last couple years and I have found that if you have the taper right in the die, the effort to derim is very minimal. If you have to redrill your press, you have a problem with the die. It does not take that much to do this...also check what ammo you are using, different mfg.'s have different thickness' of the brass and yes this makes a big difference in the effort it takes to derim. Don't anneal the brass before derimming, it will cause you to cut many heads off and leave the case in the die for a tough removal if you don't have a lathe. Another tip, check the punch size. You should be using a #8 drill blank, thats .199 and fits perfectly inside a .22 case, this is where case thickness comes into view...

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Yes, but there is no very compelling need for a given manufacturer's bullet heel to be .199in., and you might find some variation in thickness which would make a .199 punch unsuitable. Rather than an extra or new die, it might be worth trying another punch, first one with a rounded end and the other flat.

Overheating would clearly be bad for the brass, but I am not sure it wouldn't be beneficial if kept strictly within limits. I am glad I did it, though. Corbin say that the only limitation on accuracy with rimfire-jacket bullets is the impression made by the firing pin. So I bought a large quantity of rimfire cases which had never been loaded, on eBay. It is something of a mystery, Winchester headstamped, longer than LR, but of standard diameter rather than .22 Rimfire Magnum. Maybe it was intended for shotshells, and Winchester realized there was a limit to the number of .22 shotshells they could sell.

The seller swore he would boil them to remove the priming composition before mailing them internationally, but perhaps he was too busy or something. When I put one on an electric hotplate to anneal, it exploded with a sharp crack, and so did all the others I tried. Boiling did the trick for me (though I was careful not to let that water dry out), so obviously it hadn't been done by him.

[Pipefitter]

The seller swore he would boil them to remove the priming composition before mailing them internationally, but perhaps he was too busy or something. When I put one on an electric hotplate to anneal, it exploded with a sharp crack, and so did all the others I tried. Boiling did the trick for me (though I was careful not to let that water dry out), so obviously it hadn't been done by him.




Many years ago I was given a large amount of 22lr brass from a boy scout shoot. Tumbled, washed and dried the whole batch, had 3 different cases out of 25-30k that had live primers in them. Loud pop and a little dent in the drywall in the ceiling above the press, little mess in my shorts. I figured three different boy scouts just had to see what the powder charge looked like in a 22rf case and pulled the bullet from the case.

[jcw1970]

134097 oops! Guess I need to have my derim die looked at. I don't think this should happen just derimming cases.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

But it might happen if the brass was thicker than internal diameter minus punch diameter.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

The seller swore he would boil them to remove the priming composition before mailing them internationally, but perhaps he was too busy or something. When I put one on an electric hotplate to anneal, it exploded with a sharp crack, and so did all the others I tried. Boiling did the trick for me (though I was careful not to let that water dry out), so obviously it hadn't been done by him.




Many years ago I was given a large amount of 22lr brass from a boy scout shoot. Tumbled, washed and dried the whole batch, had 3 different cases out of 25-30k that had live primers in them. Loud pop and a little dent in the drywall in the ceiling above the press, little mess in my shorts. I figured three different boy scouts just had to see what the powder charge looked like in a 22rf case and pulled the bullet from the case.

Or maybe one boy scout who wanted to be really sure. It was safer when they just had knives with things for getting stones out of horses' hooves. In the UK I don't believe they are allowed the knives nowadays.

[fredj338]

Try a diff lube. The RCBS is fine for sizing cases but you need a bit more for swaging jackets IMO. Imperial would be a minimum. Home made Lanolin/castor oil works really well.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I suspect that the bullet swaging lubes sold by the swaging equipment makers are mostly just non-home made lanolin and castor oil at a greatly increased cost. The main factor required in a swaging lube isn't just how well it lubricates (which lots of things will do) but its resistance to "dieseling", or pressure ignition. The quantity involved is so small that this isn't dangerous or destructive. But if it happens, destroying the lubricating effect, the bullet that goes in may not come out.

[Red River Rick]

............Imperial would be a minimum. Home made Lanolin/castor oil works really well.

Been using Imperial Sizing Die Wax for years. Couldn't ask for anything better, especially when derimming .22 cases into jackets or reducing jackets for smaller calibers.

RRR