Which S&W revolver would you recommend for target shooting?

[jayjay1]

Hi everybody!
I had a S&W 686-3 Target Champion "Wheelgunner" in the past, which I´ve sold unfortunately.

Now I´m looking around for another competitor, which should be a used S&W, .38/.357 and have a 6" barrel.

As I´ve noticed, the newer S&W are not the kind of quality they´ve been in the past.
Everybody over here tells me, I should look for one of the better older ones.

But when I´m asking which are those, I don´t get an useful answer.

So I hope, you guys from the motherland of the S&W beauties can help me out.

I´ve shot a M27 which impressed me really because of its smooth trigger and great accuracy.
Last week I saw a M19 which looked very nice to me, but this guy was just leaving when I came to the range and was in a hurry, so I couldn´t shoot it (but will asap).

I like the look of the black ones, but that´s not a must.

Which revolver modell and which series would you recommend me?


Infos would be great.

[StrawHat]

There is only one 38 Special Target revolver from S&W, commonly referred to as the Model 14 or the Target Masterpiece. It is usually found with a 6" barrel but it was offered with a 4", 5" and 8 3/8" barrel also, all in heavy bull barrel style. It came from the factory with a target hammer, target trigger and the S&W Target stocks. It is a wonderfully accurate revolver. If you have a chance to get one, you will not be disappointed. There is also a Model 15, or Combat Masterpiece, that is the same revolver with the older "skinny" barrel. Commonly found with a 4" barrel it was also offered in 2" and 6" versions. If you are interested in 38 Special S&W target revolvers, those would be the two I recommend.

Kevin

[NC_JEFF]

I agree with the above comments. A model 14 Masterpiece would be my first choice. A model 19 or should make you very happy as well, I've shot a lot of very accurate commercially cast rounds thru a 19. All these are great guns in .38 special. If its a Smith .357 your looking for, I love my 686 for accuracy. These are just my opinions but I've shot with each of these revolvers and loved them all. I have an early 70s model 66 with a trigger too good to describe, I like the older models of S&W.

JD

[bobthenailer]

At one time or another have had most S&W 357 and 38 special K ,L and N frame revolvers in most barrel length's , currently have 5 examples. for me my favorite is the 6" 686,

I have had three 686 revolvers over the years all with out the lock , every one would do a inch at 25 yards with cast boolet target loads in 357 mag cases. the added weight of the full length underlug helps also when shooting off hand.

I have also noticed that the 3 out of 4 newer S&W revolvers that i bought new or lightly used over the last 3 years do not match up to the cosmetic finish & some fit quality of the guns made even 7 years ago but they do function well !

[Swede 45]

An old M14 is a safe card.. for 38spl target loads.

One gun I was realy impressed with was the Wischo 686 Practical Champion!
Scary accurate with everything I fired from it (worst was a hot 125gr 357 mag load that shot about 2 inch group, rested from 25m).
Nice trigger, liked the ergo Nill grip, quick adjustable frontsight (if you shoot at different distances), great balance to it (and I usually doesnt like 6" !) And did I say scary accurate ?! :razz:
133729
25m, single handed slowfire..

[jayjay1]

Yes, it should be a .357 to be able to shoot both (.38 and .357).

In the last years several quality issues with cylinder timing, bad workmanship with ridges and burrs in the internal, even in the bore and cylinder drillings where reported in the forums over here, with pictures and stuff.
One story I´ve heard about, was that there was only one hole in the cylinder inspite of six.
But that was just a rumour, have never seen a pic of that.

My Wheelgunner was a TC 686-3, which I loved.
And it shot dang more accurate that I was able to do.

Before I fall back to this revolver, are there other options then the M27 to it?
(586 would be black, so...)

[Petrol & Powder]

The Model 14 AKA "Target Masterpiece" is the obvious choice. That gun has a long history as an excellent 38 Special target gun and there are plenty of them on the market. It is a K-frame chambered in 38 Special with some factory features geared for target shooting such as: 6" barrel, adjustable sights with a target front sight, a trigger stop, target hammer and larger target style grips.
A lot of them have seen heavy use but they hold up well and are generally not abused as much as carry guns.

Outside of the Model 14 there are a lot of S&W revolvers chambered in 38 Special that are capable of excellent accuracy. The model 15 is a blued 38 Special K-frame with adjustable sights and a model 67 is the same gun in stainless steel. A lot of model 15's & 67's were law enforcement guns that saw a lot of time in a holster but shoot just fine.
I suspect if you clamped a model 14 and a model 15 in a Ransom Rest, they would shoot just about the same group. The differences are for the benefit of the user and the 4" barrel is actually capable of very good accuracy.

If you step up to the larger L-frame Smiths you have the 586 and 686 models chambered in .357 magnum. They are a bit heavier but not much larger than a K-frame. While you don't need magnum loads to punch holes in paper; the guns are certainly strong and some people like the extra muzzle forward weight of the full lugged barrel.

As much as I like the L-frames for their strength, there's something elegant about a K-frame and the 38 Special.

[Jeff82]

The first choice would be a Model-14, since it's made for target shooting. That's what I prefer to shoot. Other options that will do nearly as well are the Model-15 and Model-67. I currently shoot the Model-14, and can attest to its superior accuracy. When I was a LEO I carried a Model-67 and really liked it. Either would be fine. S&W has brought back the Model-66, which is a stainless steel version of the Model-13, if you want to shoot 357. I have not experience with the Model-66.

--Jeff

[Petrol & Powder]

133730S&W Model 14, AKA "Target Masterpiece"

[Char-Gar]

I am always a little confused when folks ask about "target pistols". If folks are asking about a handgun used to shoot targets in competition, then the rules of that competition and what it takes to win is what decides which handgun to use. If folks are talking about a handgun that is not used for hunting or defense, that is another issue entirely.

I am probably over thinking this, but I would need a sharper focus before I could comment.

[Petrol & Powder]

So Char-Gar, assuming the OP is talking about a handgun not used for hunting or defense as opposed to competition; what would be your recommendation?

[BruceB]

Which revolver modell and which series would you recommend me?

What do you mean by "target shooting"?

There are MANY different forms of "target shooting", and in some of them a revolver is not a competitive choice. Bullseye, IDPA, IPSC, Steel silhouette, etc etc.... all are properly called "target shooting".

So is simple plinking, where we shoot more-or-less randomly selected "targets" at equally-random ranges. So, again I ask: "What is "target shooting"?"

All the previously mentioned high-quality revolvers will qualify as decent "target" firearms for SOME forms of formal "target shooting"..

They will NOT work for Bullseye, or for some other types of formal competition. They WILL suffice for International Center-Fire matches, where rapid-fire is not required, and for some longer-range matches like IHMSA steel silhouette.... if sufficiently powerful.

I truly admire good revolvers, but we really need to lnow exactly what task you intend for the revolver you choose.

[Char-Gar]

So Char-Gar, assuming the OP is talking about a handgun not used for hunting or defense as opposed to competition; what would be your recommendation?

Well, he did want a Smith and Wesson, a 6" barrel and charge holes long enough for 357 Magnum round. So that places limits on our choices.

1. That takes out all 38 Special only revolvers.
2. That all but eliminates the Model 19 (K frame) as very few were made with 6" barrels. There were some but they are not that common.
3. I have no experience the the various L frame revolvers that came out, so I can't talk about those.
4. That leaves us with a 6" Model 28 (Highway Patrolman) or Model 27. These are larger N frame sixguns and I like them allot. Other than a few cosmetic differences, they are the same handgun. I would buy the first good one I found that suited my available funds.

I have not been without an N frame Smith and Wesson of one or the other above models since 1963. The 6" Model 28 I have now was bought new by me in 1982 and is going nowhere. It is a fine shooting handgun. I also like the extra weight of the N frames to hold the sights steady.

[Petrol & Powder]

I assumed that the OP was seeking a 38 Special revolver for informal target work and that he included the .357 magnum chambering to expand the potential field of suitable guns. That was a bit of my personal bias clouding my thinking because I see little need for magnum cartridges to make holes in paper or make steel ring.

Given the criteria of .357 magnum & informal target shooting, I would revise my recommendation and delete the model 14 from my list.
A 6" L-frame like a 586 or 686 would be my 1st recommendation. A model 27 / 28 with a 6" tube would be an outstanding gun as well.

[Bongo]

I own a model 586 with the silhouette sights and 6 inch barrel with the full length lug. It is the most accurate revolver I have ever shot. It will shoot minute of squirrel head in the tallest of trees. If I miss, it was clearly my fault and not the gun's. I have let non-shooters have a hand with it and all have been amazed at how well they can shoot it. Many have tried to buy it. Ain't gonna happen. Any WC over 3.5-4.0 grains of w231 is scary accurate but I used 158 rn so they would load quicker when speed loaders were needed in competition. I seen that S&W started selling the 586 again a couple years ago. It's got my vote.

[ejcrist]

I have a Model 14 K-38 with 8 3/8" barrel and I love it. It's the second most accurate revolver I have after a FA 83. It's the most pleasant revolver to shoot.

[primersp]

a 16-4 with 6 "barrel

[bhn22]

For a S&W 357 capable of great accuracy, you won't find anything better than the 686. They cylinders are longer than the the N frame 357s, allowing you more options with heavier than nominal bullets, if desired. Also consider the Ruger GP100 & the later adjustable sighted GP100 Match Champion.

[Char-Gar]

I assumed that the OP was seeking a 38 Special revolver for informal target work and that he included the .357 magnum chambering to expand the potential field of suitable guns. That was a bit of my personal bias clouding my thinking because I see little need for magnum cartridges to make holes in paper or make steel ring.

Yes, that would be my assumption as well, but I try to answer the questions people ask. If they asked the wrong question that is on them and not me. I tend to assume that people think about what they say/post before they do it. I do realize this is not always the case, but that is not my monkey.

I shoot at least 500 rounds of 38 Special for every round of 357 Magnum, so we see things the same way.

[EDK]

Back in the "Gun of the Week" days of the late 80/early 90s, S&W produced the model 627. 5.5 inch full lug barrel, stainless steel, "weights a ton." A model 27 or its economy priced brother, model 28, was an excellent choice...BUT command ridiculous prices. I'm dating myself, but my first model 28 was $80 +/- in 1973. Lost a bunch in a burglary; traded off the rest when I got into 45 ACP and then Cowboy Action Shooting. BUT the 627 are still hiding in the safe.

[jayjay1]

Now I´m looking around for another competitor, which should be a used S&W, .38/.357 and have a 6" barrel.


Yes, it should be a .357 to be able to shoot both (.38 and .357).

With target shooting I´ve meant to hit the "10" on the disc in 25m distance as often as possible.
So, as accurate as possible.

The discipline here says, you have to use .357 Magnum, so I will shoot .38 Special only for plinking.

[jonp]

For target a Model 14 Target Masterpiece. I have a Model 15 and love it but after a hundred rounds it's light weight can get to be a little much. The heavier barreled Model 14 would be superb. I'm looking for a good, used one right now.

For a 357 I'd go with a Model 19. Had one with a 6in barrel years ago and it was a tack driver.

[Char-Gar]

With target shooting I´ve meant to hit the "10" on the disc in 25m distance as often as possible.
So, as accurate as possible.

The discipline here says, you have to use .357 Magnum, so I will shoot .38 Special only for plinking.

Any Smith and Wesson K, L or N frame revolver should be able to meet those accuracy standards. Even the 4" fixed sights service models can do that. However adjustable sights, longer barrels and heavier barrels make it easier for the shooter to use the inherent accuracy.

That said, a heavy N frame revolver will soak up the recoil of the 357 magnum round better than anything smaller and give longer service life with such loads.

[Gus Youmans]

jayjay1,

If the gun must be a six inch Smith and Wesson .357 magnum, if I remember correctly, you are limited to models 19, 66, 586, 686, 27, and 28. Any of them would be good choices but the additional weight of the last four would make shooting the .357 cartridges a little more pleasant. Older guns are more likely to have better triggers than current production guns but spring kits have worked wonders in my newer guns and they get smoother with use. I think only the 586, 686, and 27 are currently being produced with six inch barrels but seem to remember that the Model 19 was being made in limited numbers.

I currently own and shoot models 19, 66, 586, and 686 and would vote for the 586 and 686 because the additional weight would be an advantage when shooting the .357 magnum in competition. I don't think any of various models is any more inherently accurate than another and the triggers on individual guns will vary from fair to outstanding but no model has any real advantage over another model.

I like the current production grips when shooting light loads but they hurt my hand with the heavier loads and have all been replaced with various versions from Hogue and Packmayr. However, your experience may be different from mine.

The above recommendation is worth exactly what you paid for it.

Gus Youmans

[Petrol & Powder]

As usual, Char-Gar's advice is spot on. The N-frames like the models 27 or 28 will soak up the recoil and are super strong. I will say that a L-frame 586 or 686 is an outstanding .357 magnum and gives you some more options. The balance point on a 6" N-frame is going to be farther to the rear due to the massive cylinder with relatively small charge holes. The L-frames will have a more weight forward balance due to the smaller cylinder and fully lugged barrel. The L-frames also have slightly longer cylinders than the N-frames.
I would stay away from a model 19 if your shooting is going to be predominantly magnum loads. My reasoning is based on several facets: The K-frame is lighter and would be less pleasant to shoot large numbers of magnums as compared to a heavier L or N frame.
The model 19 is not weak but the added strength of a L or N frame would be insurance for a used gun of unknown history.
The cracked forcing cone issue found in magnum K-frames is not as common as some would lead you to believe, but it is real.
Large amounts of magnum rounds in a K-frame can (but not always) result in excessive end shake that must be addressed.

I look at a .357 magnum K-frame as a gun that can fire magnum rounds but generally is happier with 38 Special.

Someone mentioned the GP-100 which is outside of the OP's criteria of S&W but I'll say that a GP-100 is an excellent revolver in terms of strength and accuracy. With a little work the trigger can be made quite good. It might be difficult to tune a GP-100 trigger to the same level as an old S&W but it can be made the equal of a newer S&W.

So to recap: Models 27, 28, 586 or 686

[wv109323]

I think you mentioned my first two choices. The model 19 and model 27. Add to that the model 28 which is the same as a model 27 but with a non glossy finish. The target hammer and target trigger are desirable. You may also like the 586 which is the 686 in blue.

[jayjay1]

Thanks guys, I think I have the infos I was searching for.

It comes down between the models 28 - 27 prefered and the 586.

The longer cylinder on the newer models is a criteria I haven´t had on my list.
But the most precise load I´ve ever shot out of my former 686 in .357 Magnum, was 180gr. TC bullet with some VV 3N37 behind it.

So it seems to be reduced on the 586 I suppose.

I have totally no experience with Ruger revolvers, which are very rare over here.

[StrawHat]

With target shooting I´ve meant to hit the "10" on the disc in 25m distance as often as possible.
So, as accurate as possible.

The discipline here says, you have to use .357 Magnum, so I will shoot .38 Special only for plinking.

With that criteria, I used a couple of S&W M686's in competition. It kept me in the winner's circle more often than not.

Kevin

[Scharfschuetze]

Guten Tag Jayjay1,

Glad to see you are still burning powder in Deutschland.

As you have to use the 357 per the rules that kind of limits your choices as many have stated above. Too bad you can't use the 38 Special as it's the cat's meow for accurate target shooting. Over the years I've used several good 6" Smith & Wessons in PPC and action shooting events and came to the conclusion that a good K frame was a good compromise for speed events and outright accuracy events. I did use an L Frame 6" Model for the service class of the PPC course with good results and I wish that I still had it. It would be an equally good choice as a K Frame Model 19/66 with the 6" barrel.

Here are my 6" target revolvers. The heavy barrel Model 15 is for the PPC course and the Model 14 will handle bullseye courses, PPC courses and action style shooting courses. Of course they are in 38 Special so they would not work for your situation.

[jayjay1]

Thanks to Mr. Strawhat, and thanks as always to my Scharfschuetze inhere.

Btw.:
There has been an emblem in WW II for Scharfschützen, but that was introduced by Hitler, so that until today, there is no official badge for those specialists in the Bundeswehr.

A little piece from the darkest time in German history:
http://www.google.de/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1a/Scharfschabz.jpg/220px-Scharfschabz.jpg&imgrefurl=http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scharfsch%25C3%25BCtzenabzeichen&h=280&w=220&tbnid=AuSD_OnUclAbnM:&zoom=1&tbnh=98&tbnw=77&usg=__yAeZWd7czADg6RwE_Bdg0oKMVYA=&docid=GVRi4qbyJNr4nM&sa=X&ei=zCIFVf7zB-buyQOCgYKACQ&ved=0CCcQ9QEwAQ
http://www.imgbox.de/users/INSIDER/PINS_4/P_289_ScharfschuetzenabzeichenOnline_Foto.jpg

[Lloyd Smale]

my favorite would be a 4 inch smith 15

[Swede 45]

Jayjay: I realy recommend that you take a look at the Practical Champion..
It is a upgrade from your loved Target Champ.

It´s tuned by Wischo so way better in timing and interior finish than any stock S&W.
It will be a smooth Mag shooter due to the weight and Nill grips..
Great sights and trigger.. and did I say scary accurate ? :razz:
And since Wischo is Frankonia owned, they would prolly be easily available in Germany for you?

[jayjay1]

Yes, they are, but Frankonia is somewhat pricey, you can´t imagine that.

But thanks for your help.

[shooter2]

133730S&W Model 14, AKA "Target Masterpiece"

They do not come much better than this. I had my local gun smith, and he is a good one, ream all the chambers to the same spec and to throat it to 11 degrees in the forcing cone. I honestly cannot say it improved my shooting as I am not good enough to really tell the difference.