JPW lovers try this

[Shooter6br]

I tumble lube with Johnsons Paste wax. I have my bullets still warm and mix with solid JPW till it melts. I found an easier way. I mix JPW with Johnsons 1 Step (1:1). It dries better and faster. "Rick's Mix". Limited test with no leading. Bullet's don't "flake". Need more field work.133683

[cga]

Any idea on the velocity? What caliber?

[tryNto]

Similar to. > http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?259285-NEW-!-!-T-L-Liquid-Lube

I have been using Recluse 45-45-10 for years. > http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?67654-Tumble-Lubing-Made-Easy-amp-Mess-Free

[jmort]

Similar, except no alox and this has carnauba

[Outdoors]

I'd be interested in hearing the details as well.

[gunoil]

What does alox have in it?

[RKJ]

How are you using this? Are you pan lubing or tumbling them? I'd like to find a way to do the LEE 120 TC for my 9mm. The little critters are too darn small for me (and I go through do many of them) to enjoy doing them in my 4500, and I'd prefer to not have a bunch of mess like I've seen with the LEE lube.

[BAGTIC]

My life experience has shown hat just about anything in an aerosol can will cost more than the same thing in a bulk can. It also takes more because of the waste due to overspray. It is often difficult to get in on evenly without missing spots. Be careful what you are spraying and inhaling.

[GhostHawk]

First off One Step is not an aerosol.

Second, IMO Ben's Liquid Lube is AWESOME for pistol bullets.
And it also works great as a top coat over rifle bullets previously lubed with something like Ben's Red.

Stops the stickies. You do have to excercise caution when pouring though. Too much will take a few days to dry. Almost right will dry overnight, just right will dry in 2-4 hours and be almost invisible.

So far I have shot it in .45ACP, 7.62x25, .357 Mag (Handi Rifle) .444 Marlin (Over Ben's Red variant) .300 Blackout alone and over Ben's Red.

I have seen no significant leading yet. But you do have to fit your boolits to your barrel.

So maybe not a wonder drug, cure all. But easy to make, easy to use, and leaves barrels shiny!

Cleaned my .45 acp recently with some 150 rounds of cast shot through it. One patch of Hoppes, 3 dry patch's, a light oil patch (Which came back clean) and I decided I was done.

Soon to be tested on my Mosin Nagant's. And I think I will try the SKS with just the Ben's LL. I'm running mine a bit slower so it should be ok.

Your mileage may vary. If in doubt read a few pages or the whole thread about it.

[rhouser]

All of Ranch-Dogs early Marlin Rifle Molds were configured for tumble lube.

I own one of almost every caliber he made along with the right-sized pass-through dies he offered to match the bullet to the Marlin rifle and caliber.

I have used these TL bullets in every rifle I own up to and including 375H&H. I have not had any leading issues first, because of bullet fit and then because the TL lube works for me. I also TL my pistol bullets.

Each to their own, but, 90% of my molds are the TL configuration, the other 10% I still tumble lube rather than Pan Lube

Pan lube and Lubra-sizers are great, but, I am getting by.

My 2 cents. rch

[gloob]

I have my bullets still warm and mix with solid JPW till it melts.
I've gone one step further. My first batch of Recluse's 45:45:10 dried out into a very hard, solid wax without any of the solvents in JPW or the added spirits. It lost a lot of its original volume. I melted a couple chips over my bullets with a heat gun and tumble lubed like that. The bullets were dry and non tacky as soon as the bullets cooled. Worked great until I finally ran out.

My original bottle of LLA also dried out to a hard waxy resin. I have been melting together about 2/3 beeswax and 1/3 dried out LLA, ever since. No spirits or solvent. It dries hard and has to be melted over the bullets and tumbled over heat. I rock a cake pan of bullets over a heat gun.

Swiping a chip over a hot sprue plate keeps my molds lubed for hours with only a tiny bit of smoke.

[BAGTIC]

I am old enough to remember waxing floors. When I was a teenager waxing was my job and in a house all of whose floors were either wood or linoleum/vinyl that was a lot of waxing. In those days there were not any 'no waxing' floor coverings so it had to be repeated periodically. I can tell you that there was never, never, a problem with the wax flaking. If there was it was because some heavy handed worker had tried to apply it with a putty knife and I did not do that because I would have had to clean up the mess. I still have some JPW lubed rounds that I have had for over 30 years and they still have not flaked. They have traveled fro Oregon to California, then to Florida, then back to California and finally to Missouri. They have been exposed to the heat of a car trunk in 110+ degree temperatures and to unheated storage buildings at below zero. They still have not flaked and they still shoot clean.

It seems strange that an oil film of .0001 inch is sufficient to lubricate the moving parts of a hot engine but people think a bullet needs to be plastered for one brief trip down the bore.

[leebuilder]

I to have pondered the above, only seen wax flake when contaminated with water or others. I have seen some of my boolits "pill" like after going throught the sizer the boolits are fine but a discoloured smecks of lube are forming on the base and before the sizer touches the boolit, not a biggy but different. I have not had this happen with my 45/45/10/.1. Maybe my alox is old.
In large bearings the film of oils accually supports the shaft/cam/journal once the hydronamic wedge is formed. Always amazed at gas tubines amount of heat and the acid base lubricants for them, and how close normal operating temps are close to the limits of the lubes. But boolits go from zero to 2000 fps plus in less than a second