Enfield ID and parts help needed

[Remiel]

Well as usual i cannot say no to someone who needs help. My friend has an enfield that needs a bolt an a mag i am sure its an SmLE and that's it. Sadly it was sported out, however it was done better than the ShtLE i saw at an LGS this week, looks dated 1943 and the other marks are painted over or polished off, any ideas?133307133308

[Gunor]

No. 4?

[303Guy]

That's a No4, not an SMLE (or SHtLE - same thing).

[Artful]

http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/catalog/enfield_4.html
$40 for complete bolt but none available - aaarrrrg

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/486660.htm
$56

https://apexgunparts.com/index.php/cPath/30_127
$59

http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/no4mk1boltassembled.aspx
$79.99

[leebuilder]

Plus 1
No 4

[Remiel]

thanks guys, this will help him out

[Hardcast416taylor]

I have a complete bolt for a #4Mk 1. If interested we can talk about it via a PM.Robert

[Remiel]

I have a complete bolt for a #4Mk 1. If interested we can talk about it via a PM.Robert

I will call him and send a pm

[W.R.Buchanan]

That gun is a Parker Hale "Deluxe Sporter" repurposed by them into a simple sporting rifle,,,

However it started life as a #4 Mk1.

I was made at the Maltby Factory in England, as indicated by the stylized "M" in front of the date stamp.

Bubba has also had an influence on this gun by removing the PH Front sight that was part of the Deluxe version of the conversions. Bummer about the missing bolt but they are readily available from Sarco or Numrich for not that much money.

The headspace on these guns is adjusted by using different bolt heads. I would try a #1 first and if that works then be done with it. If not at least you would know which direction to go, and they are not that expensive either.

To learn how to check headspace on these guns go here http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1169225-enfield-head-spacing

This is a simple process that anyone with a set of calipers can do.

Also I would suggest buying a little booklet form Sarco on these guns and they have similar ones for other surplus rifles as well. $6 well spent.

Just don't give them more than about $100 for that gun as it sits.

Randy

[Remiel]

Thanks Randy, this will help a lot

[Remiel]

Ok ordered the book and called him and gave the info you guys gave me, looks like in a couple of weeks he will have a #4 mk1 to play with to add to his horde

[Remiel]

Ok update time, got the bolt to him today(would have done it last week but broke my foot and got the flu at the same time) got it together and we went through it, it shoots well but the mag he had was for a #3SmLE and nor a #4mkI so now the hunt moves to getting a mag and possibly a set of .303 reloading dies.

[OKSaddletramp]

That #1 Mk3 mag will work just fine. If you have a Dremel (or other rotary tool), grind down the rear notches on the rear of the mag below the topmost notch. This is the one that locks the mag in on the No.4. You don't have to take all the metal off, just remove the notch or so for about 1 inch below the top notch.

I have one of these "modded" mags on my No.4 I bought with the original intention of chopping it to make a flush-mounted mag for a sporter (which you already have), but it worked so well I decided to leave it without further mods. I'm working on sportering a different No.4 now.

[Remiel]

That #1 Mk3 mag will work just fine. If you have a Dremel (or other rotary tool), grind down the rear notches on the rear of the mag below the topmost notch. This is the one that locks the mag in on the No.4. You don't have to take all the metal off, just remove the notch or so for about 1 inch below the top notch.

I have one of these "modded" mags on my No.4 I bought with the original intention of chopping it to make a flush-mounted mag for a sporter (which you already have), but it worked so well I decided to leave it without further mods. I'm working on sportering a different No.4 now.

Problem with that is he has a #3 that he took the mag off of, so modding it is not a good idea

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Beware of the term #3 if you are ordering anything. "Rifle No.3" was the P14, made in the USA on contract, which isn't a Lee-Enfield at all, but based on the Mauser, with a front-locking bolt and non-adjustable headspace.

I would keep the magazine at full depth. For a standing shot it makes a good palm-rest, allowing you to rest the elbow on the body.

Parker-Hale were the largest makers of sporterised No4 rifles, but their deluxe model, at least in the late 1960s, had a new stock with deep forend, dark hardwood backsloped cap, white-line spacers and high cheekpiece. Roy Weatherby had a lot to answer for.

[jrap]

Original mags are expensive but you might be able to find a new one if originality doesn't matter

[W.R.Buchanan]

B of Scotland: That Deluxe PH Sporter you refer to is actually the "Supreme" model. The "Deluxe Sporter," actually looks like the one in the pic below.

I have one I am currently converting to .35-303.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?258392-Next-New-Project-4-Mk1*-Longbranch

They cut the barrel to 22" installed a PH Ramp Front Sight cut the Fore Stock and rounded the end and attached Sling Swivels.

The Standard Sporter just got the extra wood removed.

The Supreme got the barrel cut, the front sight, and completely new wood. I have seen several examples of nice Supremes over at the Enfield Website.

Here's a link to one which is practically brand new and it is a nice looking gun.
http://www.enfield-rifles.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7364&PN=1

Randy

[Remiel]

Randy, do you know how tall the front sight was?

[W.R.Buchanan]

It could be any of 9 different heights. PH used the standard Enfield Front Sight Inserts. There are 9 of them and they are used to zero the rifles elevation at 200 yards using the Ladder Style Receiver Sight or the L Battle Sight at 300 yards. I got mine off Ebay for about $30 for the set.

They were made in .015 increments. The different sights yield @ 2 MOA change in elevation. When you sight the gun in using your standard Military Ball Ammo at 200 yards, you change the inserts to achieve a mechanical zero with the Ladder sight set at 200 yards. Once that is right then all of the yardage come ups on the rear sight actually work as advertised all the way to 1300 yards. You also adjust windage by jacking the front sight in it's mount. I actually make a tool to do this.

With the L MkII sight you adjust the elevation inserts until the gun shoots to point of aim at 300 yards. Then flipping the sight up yields a 600 yard zero.

Randy

[Remiel]

cool i will let him know, but i have a feeling that he may scope it, but if i reading this right i can grab a front sight from numerich for it or a PH ramp that accepts the enfield blade?

[tbx-4]

I have a Parker Hale front sight I removed from a De Lux No4.
Let me know if you want it... for the cost of shipping.

John

[leebuilder]

Line of sight on a No4 from the bore is around 1.050" it is what i use to set up sights, there are slight differences from rifle to rifle. There are a few different PH front sight ramps for the No4, many take the issue front sight inserts.
Any questions please ask.

[Remiel]

John i sent a pm, Leebuilder i will try to see what works

[Remiel]

Line of sight on a No4 from the bore is around 1.050" it is what i use to set up sights, there are slight differences from rifle to rifle. There are a few different PH front sight ramps for the No4, many take the issue front sight inserts.
Any questions please ask.
what is a good starting sight blade and where can a grab a #2 bolt head for #4mk1?

[tbx-4]

Have you tried the old fashion bore sighting?

When I built my first "Jungle Carbine" clone out of a 2A Ishapore I made a rear sight that mounted to the charging bridge...
Before I drilled the aperture I removed bolt, mounted rifle in stand, set target at 25 yds, aligned bull in center of bore then looked down sight to get elevation and windage.... Should work figuring front sight hight. Use a small piece of wood to place in the front sight dove tail snugly fit and a little tall. Remove and sand a little and sight again till you have the correct hight. I usually have sight aimed 1-1.5" low at 25 yrds and it almost always hits dead on at 100 yds...

[leebuilder]

what is a good starting sight blade and where can a grab a #2 bolt head for #4mk1?
hey Remiel, i start with a bore sighting on the basement wall, like tbx4 does usually -.015 gets me on the paper, but like i said every rifle is a bit different. If you have no selection of blades go high then you can file away a bit to get you in the X ring.
Bolt heads, up here i would try tradeex or marstar. For you i would see what CL has at libertytree collectors, he helped me once.
be well

[Remiel]

hey Remiel, i start with a bore sighting on the basement wall, like tbx4 does usually -.015 gets me on the paper, but like i said every rifle is a bit different. If you have no selection of blades go high then you can file away a bit to get you in the X ring.
Bolt heads, up here i would try tradeex or marstar. For you i would see what CL has at libertytree collectors, he helped me once.
be well
i was asking cause i haven't gotten the sight blade yet but i will see what i can get

[leebuilder]

Let me know i wish to help.
The only problem is the border.
I can make most any front sight you may need, make extra fat ones for buddies.
My cousin builds up his with solder, when hieght is needed.
bolt heads are hard to source at times, in a reacent post a fellow shooter showed me his jig for shimming bolt heads.
get er done

[Remiel]

Let me know i wish to help.
The only problem is the border.
I can make most any front sight you may need, make extra fat ones for buddies.
My cousin builds up his with solder, when hieght is needed.
bolt heads are hard to source at times, in a reacent post a fellow shooter showed me his jig for shimming bolt heads.
get er done

will do, i have a few feelers out and i am going to check its headspace when i have a chance

[leebuilder]

If you have no gauge use a casing with known rim thickness and some "plasti gauge" for measuring bearing clearances, it will take some cussing and fiddling but its works good.

[Remiel]

If you have no gauge use a casing with known rim thickness and some "plasti gauge" for measuring bearing clearances, it will take some cussing and fiddling but its works good.
I was going to use the rim and spent primer method i read in the canadian gunnutz forum i was given and see what he has,

[leebuilder]

Spent primer method works good too.
i like plasti gauge, even after cussing, sausagefingeritus is bad some days.

[dromia]

Those Parker Hale sporter conversions are fine rifles, I've had one as my red deer rifle for over 30 years and they were standard estate rifles when I was young stalker, no telescopic sights in those days "if you can't get within 150 yrds you shouldn't be on the hill, its stalking not target shooting you are doing" was the mantra of my old head keeper.

I have an Ajack 2.5x70 scope on mine with an Armalon no gunsmith mount.

That is a roe deer in the photo that crossed my path one day.

[Remiel]

They are i am half tempted to try and buy it off him when its done, he was testing it with a front sight he had that was too tall and handloads he had lying around 2 shots were touching and the 3rd went flying when the case let go, i got the correct sight base from a member here and i am in the process of getting the blade for it.

[Remiel]

ok it checked out today and its at .640for headspace which if i remember .74 it field, so he has a safe shooter and now i have to order the sight blade form numerich and convince him to sell it to me:grin:

[W.R.Buchanan]

dromia: That is the first PH Sporter I have seen that didn't have a Gloss Paint finish on the wood.

That is a nice looking rifle. I like the oil finish.

Randy

[Remiel]

Final update, it is finished and he is very happy. i will try to get some final pictures up soon, Thank you all that helped.

[dromia]

I prefer oil finished wood, that rifle was stripped back when I got it and is oiled with 50/50 raw linseed oil and pure turpentine.

I fill between the stock and the action/barrel with water pump grease to keep the water out.

Just as I was shown as a young lad, it all works for me so never seen a need to change.

[Remiel]

I prefer oil finished wood, that rifle was stripped back when I got it and is oiled with 50/50 raw linseed oil and pure turpentine.

I fill between the stock and the action/barrel with water pump grease to keep the water out.

Just as I was shown as a young lad, it all works for me so never seen a need to change.

I was always told "if it ain't broke don't fix it", an old saying from my grandfather

[leebuilder]

I was always told "if it ain't broke don't fix it", an old saying from my grandfather
Plus 1 on going with works for you. I slather my hunting rifles with this " aircraft grease" i have realy repells water. Once the rifle is assembled i wipe the eccess grease off. I like tung oil, always works for me, i can replicate original service rifle finish with tung oil sealer, great for knife handles too because it is not piosonous.
will be picking up another PH sporter tomorrow.
be well

[Remiel]

i keep mine oiled with wally's and use BLO on the stocks that are not coated

[Remiel]

Here is the finished rifle, thanks to all you guys my buddy now has a new rifle to use and shoot.(he has the correct mag for it now too)139132139133139134139135

[leebuilder]

Nice sporter !! Have one very simillar, perfect deer hunting rifle.