NOE Mold Thermometer?

[Mike W1]

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/Mike4245/Probe%20001_zps8lpb5ui0.jpg

Anyone use of these things? From the picture it looks to me like just a straight probe that would be inserted into a drilled hole in the mold. Was thinking of drilling and tapping a 1/4" x 20 tpi hole for a TC but I've got a couple of straight probe TC's that might work for the purpose. Looks like that's all this probe amounts to without seeing specific instructions.

[Doc Highwall]

I bought two from Al at NOE and I have him drill all the moulds I buy now, and I have drilled and tapped my other moulds to use the probe and used a 8-32 tap.

[Mike W1]

I bought two from Al at NOE and I have him drill all the moulds I buy now, and I have drilled and tapped my other moulds to use the probe and used a 8-32 tap.

Then I assume they thread into the mould. How deeps the hole in the mould?

[Fishman]

It is possible Al changed the design but mine does not thread in, it is a fiction fit. As an aside, once I got my Pid, I found the thermometer redundant and so I don't use it for my casting any more. Ymmv

[Doc Highwall]

There is a hole that is drilled into the mould that is smooth with a tapped hole on the side with a retaining set screw, the hole is about .160 and the screw looks like a 6-32.

I used a 8-32 cap screw on mine and only hand tighten the screw on the probe. I have lots of 8-32 and 10-32 that I use for projects so that is only why mine are tapped 8-32.

I have a PID and I use the NOE mould thermometer so I will know what the temperature is that gives the best bullets for my alloy, AND WRITE THE INFORMATION DOWN AS TO WHAT WORKS!!! No use trying to reinvent the wheel or remember what worked with what.

Different moulds with the same alloy will require different methods. How the mould is vented, how many cavities, caliber all make a difference when trying to get real good bullets for accuracy. Learn once what works for a particular mould and document it, this will make the casting process run smoother the next time you cast.

I don't know about you, but I want to be able to relax when casting and shooting and have everything go nice and smooth.

[Mike W1]

There is a hole that is drilled into the mould that is smooth with a tapped hole on the side with a retaining set screw, the hole is about .160 and the screw looks like a 6-32.

I used a 8-32 cap screw on mine and only hand tighten the screw on the probe. I have lots of 8-32 and 10-32 that I use for projects so that is only why mine are tapped 8-32.

I have a PID and I use the NOE mould thermometer so I will know what the temperature is that gives the best bullets for my alloy, AND WRITE THE INFORMATION DOWN AS TO WHAT WORKS!!! No use trying to reinvent the wheel or remember what worked with what.

Different moulds with the same alloy will require different methods. How the mould is vented, how many cavities, caliber all make a difference when trying to get real good bullets for accuracy. Learn once what works for a particular mould and document it, this will make the casting process run smoother the next time you cast.

I don't know about you, but I want to be able to relax when casting and shooting and have everything go nice and smooth.
Something on the order of this crude "Paint" drawing I'm guessing. Don't know why I couldn't have been born with a little more imagination, usually someone has to hit me over the head to enlighten me. Thanks.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/Mike4245/TC-%20Mould%20-Holder_zpsfodpslsl.jpg

[Doc Highwall]

Mike, that is how it is done. The hole has to be put in a place where it will not break into a cavity or interfere with the screws that hold the mould blocks onto the handles.

When my mould is mounted onto the casting handles the hole for the probe faces back towards me and is located in the lower left hand corner of the mold, and the tapped hole is on the left side.

[Mike W1]

Mike, that is how it is done. The hole has to be put in a place where it will not break into a cavity or interfere with the screws that hold the mould blocks onto the handles.

When my mould is mounted onto the casting handles the hole for the probe faces back towards me and is located in the lower left hand corner of the mold, and the tapped hole is on the left side.

Looks like a trip to pick up a tap and a drill bit tomorrow. But I think I'll put my TC in from the left side and set screw on the front otherwise I have visions of my TC and my fumble fingers tangling with each other if it comes out the back of the mold. I had that experimental aluminum coupler JB Welded in that position and that worked OK for me. Got my shopping list made, now I'll have to figure out how to set the depth gauge on my little drill press that's different than my old one.
I'll let you know how this goes. Thanks again.

[edctexas]

It seems to be quite handy! I have all but one lyman mold drilled for a probe. I think I used a 0.165 drill bit for the probe. Al provided a allen wrench set screw but I removed it and use a stainless philips pan head screw in its place. It is easier to operate than getting the allen wrench into the hole. If you can measure the hot plate surface temp while you are measuring the mold temp, you can set the mold temp by a fudge factor and the hot plate surface temp. Then you don't need to keep the mold probe in place all the time. And recording what works best helps you get more consistent results.

Ed C

[Mike W1]

Got it done and probably test it Wed. while mama's gone for the day. Went with 6x32 as I figured if I screwed up I could always go bigger. Worst part was trying to set the depth on the drill press. Naturally the instructions didn't even faintly resemble the unit I bought. My TC probe was about .005" less than a 1/8" bit so that worked out nicely.

Appreciate all the help and hints I got on here.

[Mike W1]

Learned a bit and will stick my notes on tailend. Think I'll probably end up setting my other #452374 up for a TC also as I'm pretty sure it's sweet spot is considerably lower than this one. Confirms what I thought in that my IR thermometer doesn't read anywhere near what the TC did. Also will want to play around with my surface reading TC a bit more to see if that reads anywhere near what the inserted TC reads.
3-10-15
Experiment with TC inserted in Mould
#452374 DC Lyman #657
Alloy 120414
Cold Start Shop 77° Mould 72.5°

2 Lee 10lb pots PID controlled w/homemade
warming shelves - they max at about 305°

PID's set at 715° F and 377° C
Pots filled to bottom of lip on pot
Reached 621° & 327° in 19 minutes
Top Pot 377° 23:20 Bottom Pot 715° 25:21
Mould on bottom pot at 25:21 was 239.7° F

3 casts sufficient to raise mould to 355° area
Rapid casting raised them to high of 384° and
370° - 374° was easily maintained but this
mould seems happier in the 360° slot or the sprues
cut entirely too easy, though no smears

Took it back up to 365° F and let it sit on the
shelf to cool. Took 2-1/2 minutes to drop back
to 324° and was down to 295° in 5:20