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ducmarc
02-26-2015, 11:47 PM
anyone cast for the low power pistols like 32 acp since about all the fancy howpoints don't open up at any range. after reading about slow moving big cast bullets being more effective at slow speed than jacketed would that idea hold up with 32s and 380s

Bzcraig
02-26-2015, 11:59 PM
I load Accurate's 75gr boolit in my 32acp for that very reason and IIRC Ranch Dog had a mold for 25acp. There are numerous molds for 380

ducmarc
02-27-2015, 12:43 AM
cool thanks

Outpost75
02-27-2015, 10:48 AM
I use the Accurate 31-087T in my .32 ACPs with 1.7-2.0 grains of Bullseye.

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BAGTIC
02-27-2015, 11:31 AM
I cast for 32 S&W Long, and 32 H&R Magnum. I recently bought a thousand bullets for .32 ACP from Rim Rock Bullets. They are the same bullets used by Buffalo Bore. Have not had a chance to load them yet because of bad weather but they look great. The form appears to be the same as the FN 71 grain FMJ I have been shooting in my Rheinmetall.

Check Buffalo Bore site to see velocities they claim for 'real' gun loads in three different model guns. Very impressive for a 32 ACP. A .32 ACP carbine would make a great squirrel/small game gun.

rintinglen
02-28-2015, 10:05 PM
I have a Ranch Dog 314-75 and one of the 32 ACP HP molds from MP molds, and either gives me good boolits that shoot well. There are tricks involved in getting those bitty boolits to cast well, though. You absolutely must pre-heat the molds. And not just a bit, they must be at full casting temperature and then you must cast as fast as you can. The melt will have to be hotter than normal. I run my LEE 20 pounder at the top initially and than back off a bit as I go. If the boolits aren't frosted, they will likely produce a high percentage of bad boolits poorly filled out.

Outpost75
02-28-2015, 10:31 PM
The .32 ACP works well.in wheeweight alloy or backstop scrap. Nothing fancy needed.

I use a hot plate to preheat the molds, using a 350 deg..F (177 degs. C) Tempilstik crayon on the blocks to set preheat temp, then run the WW melt at 720 degs. F, checked with a Keithley digital thermocouple thermometer and 10cm probe inserted near the pot outlet tap.

I almost never throw away a bullet. I alternate two gang molds of bullets which are easily sorted fom each other to maintain a casting cadence, and don't stop to return sprue to the pot until it is 1" above empty. Then I top off, flux and sort bullets while the pot comes back up to heat. That is alot of .32s working a pair of Accurate 5-cavity blocks.

GBertolet
02-28-2015, 10:48 PM
I have had good luck experimenting with a fellow shooter, the Lyman 311252 RN @ 77gr, with 2.3 gr Titegroup, sized to .311, lubed with 50/50, cast of wheel weights. It was a top performer. Several test guns were used, all performed decently. My favorite test piece was a war production HSC Mauser. Shot to point of aim, was reliable, and was accurate enough to easily take down 8" plates at 25 yards.

It is true that you must keep the lead hot, and cast relatively fast, as the mold cavities are small, and the heat loss is great. Those fired empty cases are mighty hard to find in the grass at the range.

paul edward
03-01-2015, 04:54 PM
Yes. I use the Lyman 311252 two cavity mold. Depending on alloy, boolits drop at 75 to 77 grains. These boolits work well in .32 Auto as well as .32 S&W, .32 S&W Long, .30 Luger and 7.63x25 Mauser. Starting loads can be found in manuals and online data from powder suppliers. Start with smaller charges as your main criteria is to cycle the action reliably.

I have never used .32 Auto with cast reloads for anything other than paper targets and tin cans. Not recommended for prairie dogs at 100 yards.