Forming copper/brass jackets from tube/old cases

[jacksonsmith]

I am interested in making jacketed projectiles/bullets using copper tubing and brass cases swagged to size. I would like to make my own "dies" as I have the equipment to produce the die body and the punches.
Could you advise the die body hole and punch sizes to swage the copper/brass in subsequent steps. Alternatively, what is the average reduction in size I can expect at each stage. For example making 44[429] jackets out of 9mm or 38 cases. Similarly swagging coper tube to 45 [452] jackets or from 44 Rem Mag cases.
Thanks

[hotbrew]

Check out Cane's thread at

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?210129-Making-30-Cal-Dies

He does a great job showing the process.

hotbrew

[midnight]

The core seat die that you intend to use the jackets in will dictate the dimensions of your draw die. The jacket must be an easy slip fit in the core seat. Make you die dimensions to suit the core seat die. Start on the small side and draw a jacket and see how it fits. You can always lap the die a little bigger. Don't forget to account for springback. It will be 0.001 to 0.002 depending on the jacket material. For the punch, measure the wall thickness at various points of the jacket, multiply by 2 and add a couple thousenths. Subtract this number from the desired OD of the jacket. This will be your starting diameter of the punch. It will probably have to be slightly tapered. Try to round the end to match the end of the jacket. If jackets tend to stick on the punch, polish it down a little. Better to have the punch a little small, otherwise you will be trying to thin the jacket walls between the punch and the die and that takes a lot of force. My die bodies are B7 7/8-14 threaded rod with a hole bored through slightly larger than the jacket. I make a 3/8 deep pocket, 0.500 diameter in one end. I use drill bushings of that size to do the drawing. Type "P" bushings are made about .001 to .0015 oversize so I can press them in the pocket with an arbor press. Grind a taper on both ends of the bushing leaving only a 1/16 in or less the original ID. I lap this out to get the size I need. I didn't mean to go on so long but it's hard to stop me once I get started.

Bob

[blaser.306]

I just made my first draw die for 9MM down to .356" and with annealed brass I get an honest .002" of springback.

[Pipefitter]

.452 bullets can be made very cheaply from 40S&W brass, 300gn is no need to trim, lighter weights are trim to length, anneal, seat core and point form.
40S&W can be found for around $40-50/thousand, delivered. 1/2" copper pipe (type L ) sells for ~ $1/foot, figure 15 jackets per foot.
Richard Corbin sells J4 jackets for around $13/200 depending on length.


The 1/2" copper is cut on automatic screw machines, adding to the cost unless you happen to have one sitting in the garage. One end is rounded, then annealed, then the end is flattened and finally drawn to size. Lotsa work unless you are looking for a handgun bullet that will punch holes in 1/4" steel plate, yet bounce off a bowling pin to be found behind you. (Ask me how I found that out)