NOE 44cal HBWC/Anybody using them?

[Leadmelter]

I am contemplating picking up this mold. I have the Lyman 180gr and a Rapine 245 gr WC so it would sit in the middle at 215 grs. It just looks like a pain to cast like Minnie balls.
Leadmelter
MI

[GLL]

I use the MP version and it works well with 25:1 ! The extra tin provides respectable base fill-out. Pure Pb did not work well for me though (I may not have had the right temperature for alloy/mold).

http://www.fototime.com/4CA799194F681DD/medium800.jpg

Jerry

[kevmc]

??????
25:1
load backward in .44 spl..........
?????

[GLL]

??????
25:1
load backward in .44 spl..........
?????
25:1 [Pb:Sn] for .44 Special/.44 Russian target level loads. I am pretty sure they would expand well loaded backwards with 7.0gr of Unique in a 6.5" barrel.

http://www.fototime.com/BD3F088AF759890/xlarge.jpg

Jerry

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have the NOE 360 148 HBWC
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=897&osCsid=m0qf8o0alfjclqaqt8slhp7fi1
It was a little troublesome casting with it, when I first got it.
It wasn't a case where the boolit would stick to the Pin, like other NOE HP molds I have, then learned to cast with them faster so the mold and pins stayed hotter.

It was that the boolit would stick in the cavity. I couldn't see any burrs, I use a eye loupe. I was hesitant to do this, but I 'lee-mented' it. It made all the difference in the world. it's a joy to cast with now. I think is was just the sharp edges of the small square lube grooves...or a few burrs I couldn't see? But the polishing of the cavities by spinning a boolit, coated with automotive rubbing compound, solved my issue.

I use a range scrap alloy that is fairly soft...like 8 BHN. I didn't need to add any extra tin, but I run the mold fairly hot, which gives good fillout.

[rintinglen]

I too have the 148 grain version, and my experience parallels that of Glencoe Jon. I had trouble with unseen burrs but a bamboo skewer run over all the edges of each cavity lead to a marked improvement. You do have to cast as fast as you can and run the mold hotter than you normally would. I start out with my Lee pot cranked all the way up and then back off once I'm getting good fill out to allow me to keep the speed of casting up.