flintlock delay

[True.grit]

Ok I just started shooting a flintlock. It is a kick in the pants to shoot but the delay from the time the pan flashes to the main charge goes of is incredible. Can any of you flinter shooters out there shed some light on how to make a faster lock time. Thanks for the help.

[waksupi]

Put less powder in the pan. It should be half or less. The less that will ignite the charge reliably, the faster it will be.

[True.grit]

Put less powder in the pan. It should be half or less. The less that will ignite the charge reliably, the faster it will be.
Ok I will try that. Good tip.

When changing the flint should you install new leather? Also how often do you change the flint? There is no substitute for experience. Thanks for your help.

[curator]

Part of getting a flint lock to fire fast and reliably is learning how to install and maintain the flint. It needs to scrape the frizzen at least two thirds up from the bottom. Scrape, not hit. Waksupi gave good advise about not over-filling the flash pan. A nice thin covering of the pan bottom and right up against the touch hole usually works best. Even "fast" flintlocks are about 3 times slower than a percussion gun but polishing the lock innards and frizzen cam and spring can speed things up a bit. A flint should last 25-30 shots before needing to be moved forward. They should also be almost "self-sharpening" if installed correctly but they do get shorter. A shim behind the flint should give you another 25 to 30 shots. I use thin lead sheet instead of leather to hold the flint for several reasons (this may ignite a hell storm from others with a different opinion) most of which have to do with what works for me and my flint locks. I do change the lead wrap with the flint. To use lead sheeting to hold the flint you need to have a hole drilled transversely through the top-jaw screw so you can use a hardened rod to tighten the screw--screw-driver won't provide the proper tightness. I make sure the flint's sharp face is not touching the frizzen at half-cock, and lined up parallel with the frizzen face, about two-thirds from the bottom. You might need to try either bevel up or down to see what works best. Once the flint is tightened I "dry-fire" three times and re-tighten. This should be good for 30 or more firing before needing re-positioning. Experimenting with your gun will show you what works best with experience and observation.

[waksupi]

I don't like lead, it transmits too much shock to the internals of the lock. I only change the leather when it gets too ratty to use. I can usually get well over 100 shots from a flint. My flinters are all pretty much the same speed as a cap lock, if not faster.

[Longone]

Also wiping the flint and frizzen (and related parts) between shots will keep the shower of sparks coming.

Longone

[True.grit]

Thank you guys I will give these things some range time. You guys are a great resource. Thanks again

[pietro]

I don't like lead, it transmits too much shock to the internals of the lock.
I only change the leather when it gets too ratty to use. I can usually get well over 100 shots from a flint.
My flinters are all pretty much the same speed as a cap lock, if not faster.




+1 - My rocklock's ignition are definitely faster than a typical caplock rifle's. (I use only Holy Black)

I also adhere to the K.I.S.S. principle, using the same FFFg used in the main charge as the pan priming charge.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cb/Flintlock_ignition_animation.gif



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[Col4570]

Another tip is to fit a coned touchhole liner the cone inside brings the powder near the flame.I agree that less powder allows the flame to skip over the surface of the priming rather than burning through it.

[ejcrist]

Also wiping the flint and frizzen (and related parts) between shots will keep the shower of sparks coming.

Longone

This is excellent advice. I always wipe the pan out with a Q-tip or brush before priming for the next shot. This is especially important in humid climates where spent priming powder can hold moisture and transfer it to the new priming powder.

[scattershot]

All good advice, but Waksupi's tip is the easiest to do and I would start there. You want the pan powder to be slightly below the touchhole (flashhole, to some) so that the flame enters the hole instead of cooking its way in like a fuse. I've not had much luck with sawn flints, and so stick with the knapped ones.

it's almost as much art as science, and ther's a learning curve, but stick with it. Those newfangled percussion caps will never catch on, anyway. Like the old mountain man said, "as long as ye got rocks, ye got fire".

watch yer topknot.

[KCSO]

Delay, what delay???? YOu just follow Waksupi's advise and you will say the same!

[True.grit]

Thanks guys for all the great advice. Just chaulk it up to being a newb. It is going to be hard to go back to cap locks. I have been ruined for life. LOL

[Gussy]

Just before firing, flick your wrist to the right. That throws the priming charge away from the flash hole but aimed at it.

[Boogieman]

put a close fitting metal vent pick in the vent & leave it there while loading. remove it just before priming. this keeps the vent clear. An OLD flint shooter told me that vent is a window not fuse. Loading this way makes even my old Bess, with a straight drilled vent ,go off like a caplock. 3fg powder works better for priming in damp weather being graphite coated it doesn't pull water out of the air like 4fg .

[peter72]

A great read as I'm going through the same issues as the op

[Lead Fred]

A proper main charge and ball and patch are paramount.
Using Real black powder is paramount
Using a measured device for priming powder is very important.

On lead to hold the flint. Jim Chambers says its one of the few things you can do to his locks to void the warranty.
He ripped me a knew one. use only leather now.

Ive used one of these for decades now, 3 grains every time

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=7876

[True.grit]

Real black is all I use. Here in AZ we are on the dry side so moisture is not a problem. Just got a pan measure but did not get the metered one. Looks like track of the wolf is going to get some more business. Thanks guys.