Ruger bx trigger for 10-22?

[Pigboat]

Has anyone tried this trigger on their 10-22? If so, likes/dislikes? Is it worth the money?

[lefty o]

if thats the seperate one ruger is selling for like $90, ive only seen a magazine review on it , that said trigger pull was 3.5# vs rugers claimed under 3. im thinking for $90 you can get your 10/22 into a better trigger pull for less money.

[jumbeaux]

Check out Brimstone...they have three different trigger job options...

[geargnasher]

The trick is to convert the plunger-type trigger-return spring to an overtravel stop and make a wire spring instead, work on the hammer to reduce creep and lawyer angle, and polish the sear reset surfaces. I just buy the Power Customs hammer kit, do the spring and stop conversions myself and polish what needs to be polished. If you are skilled enough to stone the surfaces correctly (I'm not), you can fix it all for three bucks including a piece of piano wire and an allen-head setbolt.....assuming your time is free.

Here's how to bend the wire for a new slide-release spring/trigger spring (OEM trigger release spring on the left):
http://i1328.photobucket.com/albums/w538/Geargnasher/100_4023_zps117dc99e.jpg (http://s1328.photobucket.com/user/Geargnasher/media/100_4023_zps117dc99e.jpg.html)

Here's what it looks like installed (sort of, hard to see, but it's on the right side of the receiver, wraps around the hammer bushing, bears on the back of the trigger on one end and the normal spot on the slide-release lever on the other):
http://i1328.photobucket.com/albums/w538/Geargnasher/100_4010_zpscd761d8f.jpg (http://s1328.photobucket.com/user/Geargnasher/media/100_4010_zpscd761d8f.jpg.html)

You can just barely see the tip of the bent end of the spring bearing on the back of the trigger, here:
http://i1328.photobucket.com/albums/w538/Geargnasher/100_4013_zpsb2841c1e.jpg (http://s1328.photobucket.com/user/Geargnasher/media/100_4013_zpsb2841c1e.jpg.html)



Here's the overtravel stop on this one I made out of a nail, had to fiddle with it a bit to get the length just right, which requires disassembling the whole trigger group a bunch of times. Lately, I just tap the plunger hole and install a set screw with blue locktite and it can be adjusted from the back side:




http://i1328.photobucket.com/albums/w538/Geargnasher/100_3998_zps221ad874.jpg (http://s1328.photobucket.com/user/Geargnasher/media/100_3998_zps221ad874.jpg.html)

To finish things off, I file the stakes on the bolt spring guide, remove handle and spring to polish the guide, then polish and reblue the charging handle, radius and polish the back underside of the bolt so it rides the hammer more smoothly, and make a recoil buffer out of 7/32" automotive vacuum tube and another piece of 16d nail. I also polish the receiver bolt and charging handle raceways. Lots of time, very little money. These tricks even work on the plastic trigger groups.

http://i1328.photobucket.com/albums/w538/Geargnasher/100_4026_zpsd27f0fc8.jpg (http://s1328.photobucket.com/user/Geargnasher/media/100_4026_zpsd27f0fc8.jpg.html)

Oh, almost forgot, the Volquarzen automatic bolt release is just about a MUST have IMO, you can modify your stock one to do the same thing with a little dremmeling or work with small files, but for $11 it isn't worth the time/effort to me, and you need a pattern to go off of besides. At least buy the first one and modify stock ones in the future based off of it.

You will need to finely polish the reset surfaces of the disconnector and sear so that the trigger spring has enough suds to reset things without increasing the pull. The minimum trigger spring pressure has to be more than reset pressure, so that is added to the pressure required to trip the sear from the hammer. I've been able to get down around 2.5 lbs without extensive work to the hammer, sear, or going to a reduced-power hammer spring. I actually prefer the extra-power hammer spring that comes with the Power Customs hammer kit as I can get under 3 lbs easily using it and modifying the other things. There are kits out there to relocate the trigger spring, but they are more work and mo' money, I don't like spending more than the gun cost on a trigger job if I don't have to. The Power Customs kit with the sear, trigger spring/plunger, and some other odds and ends is good, but I don't use all the parts and there's really nothing wrong with the factory sear except it needs a little polish in a spot or two, and the burrs removed from the disconnector and sear spring seat holes so the spring doesn't pop or go "scrunch" when resetting the trigger. There is still plenty of light trigger pre-travel (take-up) when I do this, but I prefer that. The PC hammer takes out most of the creep, you can take off more by bobbing the hook VERY slightly. Some part kits fix the pre-travel if it bothers you, but again, mo' money.

One more thing that really helps these little guns is the custom barrel-droop-eliminating barrel wedge that Brownell's sells, I don't remember who makes it but it's an individual and the instructions are handwritten. Highly recommended if you don't just get an aftermarket barrel that fits tight or epoxy the stock barrel to the receiver.

Gear

[AZ-JIM]

I have one, have only shot with it a few times. It is light, breaks clean, but does have a little creep. I needed an extra group anyway to replace borrowed parts for another project. I don't have any complaints about it for what I paid for it, and I feel I got what was advertised, plus the parts to put the other gun back together. YMMV.....

az-jim

[Hardcast416taylor]

I bought a volquarzen kit to smooth and lighten a 10/22 trigger back in the late `90`s for over $100, if I recall correctly. For all the time it took me to stone and smooth and install other parts, for me it took about 3 days, I think I`d go with this new trigger.Robert

[prsman23]

X 2 on brimstone tier 2. $70

[Doc Highwall]

I just received a Midway flyer that has it for $69.99 item # 534-496.