case lube

[gunshot98]

I would like the opinion's about Hornady One Shot case lube.

[autopacker]

I started using imperial and will not use anything else. $3 with free shipping on amazon. A little goes a long way!

[gunshot98]

My dad gave me 5 cans of it. Seems to work ok just didn't know much about it. Fixin to load about 60 Rem. 7 mag this weekend, will comment after that session.

[jmorris]

It's better than nothing but not my favorite.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

It's better than nothing but not my favorite.

I don't use it on rifle cartridges any more. If it's a caliber that RCBS provides a lube die for, I use the RCBS lube die. If it isn't, I use Imperial. Tried the Hornady back in the past, got more than one stuck case using that stuff and it's a pain to apply as well.

[101VooDoo]

One Stick? I only use it for straight walled pistol rounds in carbide dies.

Imperial for everything else.

[duckey]

I bought some of that and returned it after reading all the chemicals that were in it. Directions said not to get on your skin or breath fumes (kinda hard to avoid when reloading). I am sticking with the Lee lube (white wax based). It is about $4 isn and goes a long way, works when dry as well. I am just trying to limit the amount of chemicals I expose myself to.

[GabbyM]

Royal Case & Die Lube.
Just tried it for the first time an hour ago. Purchased from MidSouth. Been years working through a spray bottle of Dillon case lube. It worked well also but this Royal seams slicker with reduced effort. No dents in 223's fired in a NATO chamber then FL sized in an RCBS X die. That sets the shoulder back about .010". No dented cases. I used it just like I have the Dillon. Dump cases in cardboard box. light spray then stir with hands to spread. Allow to fully dry off the alcohol.

Now for Duckey because he has a valid point on toxins. Ingredient label on Royal can.

Contains: Isopropyl Alcohol (67-63-0), Propane/Isobutane/N-Butane (68476-86-8), Proprietary Lubricants, Heptane (142-82-5). KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. www.sharpshootr.com (http://www.sharpshootr.com) made in U.S.A.

[jason]

For volume case prep there is nothing better I have tried. I use it only for pistol and .223.

[country gent]

I use mostly imperial Sizing die wax for rifle rounds and forming cases. I also have lanolin here for case lube and making black powder lubes. Most work if you follow directions and pay attention to what your doing. If not done as instructed very few work as well.

[HGS]

Hornady one shot has worked good as a case lube for me, but like most others who are serious about case lube, you cannot beat imperial sizing wax. One small can of imperial will last two or three times as long as your 5 cans of one shot. I guess its just a personal preference on which case lube you use.

HGS

[garym1a2]

The only two times I ever stuck a case in the die was .223 brass with Hornaday one shot.
I would like the opinion's about Hornady One Shot case lube.

[Bonz]

I use Hornady One Shot case lube ( spray can ) for all pistol and .223 & .308 loading. For case prep (bulge busting, roll sizing, etc) I use the water based Hornady case lube in the pump bottle, just because its less expensive

[groovy mike]

I tried One shot twice about 6 month apart. Both times I ended uo with brass stuck in the sizing dies that needed to be pounded out. Do not use it - ever.
The remainder of my canw as used on a squeaky chair spring. In my humble opinion it does not belong anywhere near a reloading bench!

[Janoosh]

Hornady one shot, and I read the instructions, equalled my first stuck case. That's when I learned about putting the die and case in the freezer.

[jcren]

In my experience e with 3006 and 243, if you let it dry per instructions, you can get stuck cases. Size them slightly wet, and it works OK. I started using a lanolin hand cream thinned with alcohol and the sizing effort is dramatically reduced.

[gwpercle]

I like Lee case sizing lube ( it is a metal forming wax lube and water soluble ) for light duty sizing , Imperial Sizing Wax for rifle and heavier tasks. If cases still don't won't to go in and come out easily, I apply a thin film of STP Oil Treatment.....That always gets the job done, it's just greasy and needs to be removed from the cases.
Anything with Lanolin will also work and is not as messy as STP, but I ran out of Bag Balm and haven't been back to the country feed and seed store to buy more. That stuff is great for your hands and as a case lube!
Gary

[lightman]

I have used it in the past and it worked. It gets a lot of bad press and reloaders either love it or hate it. I quit using it because I had a few cans that I bought on sale that lost their pressure. Now I use Imperial for neck sizing and Dillon spray for everything else.

[Uncle R.]

I have used Hornady One Shot many times and sometimes still do - especially when I'm loading large quantities of .223s or other bottle necked brass. What I like about the One Shot is I can lube the inside of the case necks automatically when I spray. I stand up fifty or more cases in a low-sided cardboard box and spray from an angle that puts a portion of the lube inside the necks. I spray from four directions in order to hit all sides of the brass. It takes a pretty generous dollop of One Shot to prevent stuck cases.
One Shot is only moderately effective as a lube and would not be my first choice for difficult sizing jobs. Either the lanolin based lubes or the Lee wax based lube work better and are more economical to use. The only advantage to One Shot is speed of application. If I'm sizing 500 cases I'll probably reach for the Hornady can.

Uncle R.

[EDG]

Most of the Hornady One Shot stories involve pulling the dinky rims off of 5.56 cases.

[fourarmed]

Every case I ever stuck in a die, and there have been several, I was using One Shot. I don't use it any more.

[gunshot98]

I really appreciate the response. Looks like i need to order some Imperial.

[cajun shooter]

I have used Hornaday One Shot for years loading my 44WCF and 45-70 cases. There is a learning curve however. If using new unsized brass then you should size the case wet with lube and it will work fine. If you have once fired cases from your gun then a light coating while in a pizza pan will suffice.
If I'm doing bottleneck rifle cases like my 308, I then use Imperial for no problems.
Hornaday is fast and works well if used for straight walled cases that have been fired. Spray on and allow to dry. It's great if you load lots of pistol cases that can't be run through a carbide die, like my 44WCF. Later David

[mold maker]

One Shot on straight walled pistol cases and Imperial for everything else. I got tired of ruined brass and time wasted removing stuck cases.

[jcwit]

Imperial or Mink Oil "found in the shoe dept.".

[GabbyM]

Last week I was to lazy to get up from my chair. So I just dipped my finger in a tub of EP grease on the bench. Rubbed it in my palm and mauled over about 300 223 cases. FL small base sized them all. They'd been fired in a 5.56mm NATO chamber so shoulder set back was about .010" plus the small base. They all went through smooth.

[Sticky]

Pistols/straight walled cases, I use carbide dies. Rifles/bottlenecks I use Imperial.. once I tried it, never looked back!

[Bullwolf]

I was a big fan of the RCBS white bottle and lube and the pad for years. I *think* its a soap based lube, it always dried my hands out anyways.

One day here on Cast Boolits, someone suggested using Bag Balm as a case lube.

http://www.bagbalm.com/

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41FdukGXInL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

The idea made sense, since Bag Balm is mostly Lanolin. I had a can already on hand that I used around the farm for lots of different things.

I tried it out... And I have used it ever since without looking back.

It makes a very good case lube. I have yet (knock on wood) to stick a case using it, even with the nastier calibers like .223/5.56

Better still, it doesn't seem to corrode or oxidize my tumbled brass if I don't load it immediately after sizing, and it leaves my hands feeling very soft and nice.

I'm still using that first can of Bag Balm, and I don't see myself using it up anytime soon.

Try it sometime, you may like it as well




- Bullwolf

[rodsvet]

I bought several cans of One Shot at the local gun show a few years ago to replace my Midway/Frankford Arsenal aerosol. Followed the directions and stuck the first 223 case. Removed it from the die and promptly stuck the second case. "Fool me once, shame on you! Fool me twice, shame on me!" I threw the cans in the trash and bought Dillons spray lube. Rod

[wv109323]

I don't know about the Hornady One Shot but I like their bottle lube and a lube pad. Product 9005 or something like that. I have FL resized about 4000 cases and not one stuck case. 3K .223 and 1K of military .308. With previous RCBS and Lee case lubes I would have probably stuck 5-6 cases in the same volume.
Hornady bottle lube is $4.99 at LGS and would do at least 10K cases.

[bhn22]

I tried it when it first came out. You guessed it, I stuck a 223 case on a Hornady Durachrome die. Then I damaged the die trying to remove the case and ended up buying a new set of dies. I use Dillons case lube, and have never stuck one since switching. I do keep Imperial around for weird projects like full-on case reforming. Just for luck.

[gloob]

The problem with One Shot is the directions. Folks have long ago figured out the proper way to apply spray lubes. You need a plastic bag, is all. Stop spraying your bench and your loading blocks, and start getting the lube where it needs to be! :)

This works with most all lubes, even. A plastic bag works like a roll pad on steroids.

[thebigmac]

I've been using Amoco STP since the early 60's, & worn out three (3) pads for all my rifle cases....Dillon & a plastic bag for pistol brass.
RIFLES; .22 hornet up to 7mm Mag.
HANDGUNS; .380 up to .45 LC.
Been on a Department Pistol Team for over 30 yrs. shooting bullseye.
.38 spl. & .45 auto mainly. NO problem with a Star Reloader & a Lyman, later a dillon 650. For bullet lube, the proven lube was NRA's Alox 2138 mixed with beeswax. Works great. I have friends using all types of lube. I've been using lube from a 20gal. grease tub with 12 other officers, & still have over15 lbs. left. I'm 80 yrs. old & won't ever run out of either....bigmac

[fguffey]

The idea made sense, since Bag Balm is mostly Lanolin. I had a can already on hand that I used around the farm for lots of different things.


Bag balm is in the same family as petro chemical. Vaseline, cosmoline, bag balm. The bag balm was used as a lube on rifles in WW11, problem, mercury was used as an antiseptic? No one knows if mercury is still being used, they no longer list it as one of the ingredients.

F. Guffey

I use a no name lube, it is on no ones list of favorite case lubes. I tumble after sizing.

[TheDoctor]

Made a mix of Lee white lube, and a bottle of ISO HEET, which is 99 percent isopropyl. Put them both in a spray bottle with some marbles to get it mixed. Takes a bit. 223 cases in a baggie, couple of good squirts, and tumble them for a few seconds. Best and easiest i have found so far. Still haven't tried Imperial, need to get some.

[Bullwolf]

Bag balm is in the same family as petro chemical. Vaseline, cosmoline, bag balm. The bag balm was used as a lube on rifles in WW11, problem, mercury was used as an antiseptic? No one knows if mercury is still being used, they no longer list it as one of the ingredients.

F. Guffey


Bag Balm is basically Hydroxy Quinoline Sulfate, in a Petrolatum Lanolin base. It has not contained any mercury based anti-infectives apparently for quite a long while.

Bag Balm was also used in WWII to prevent rust on weapons! As well as on cadaver sniffing dogs paws in New York at ground zero after 9/11.

I used it on the farm on livestock, and on myself for a long while. I originally learned about it watching my father, and grandfather.

Here's some more light Bag Balm reading if you're interested.

http://askdrlouise.com/blog/whats-in-bag-balm-anyway/

Could Bag Balm have had mercury in it?


Yes, at one time it did. When John L. Norris purchased the formula in 1899 that became the recipe for Bag Balm, topical mercury compounds were commonly used as anti-infectives. If you, like me, remember your mother putting red Mercurochrome® on your cuts, or its colorless cousin Merthiolate®, she was applying a mercury-based antiseptic to your “owie”.

Mercury compounds do not work very well as anti-infectives, but can be absorbed into your body and eventually cause toxicity, especially if applied to broken skin and used over a long period of time. In 1992 the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a statement that declared that topical mercury compounds for topical use were neither safe nor effective as anti-infectives, and in 1998 the use of mercury compounds in topical products was banned outright by the FDA, removing the original formulas of Merthiolate® and Mercurochrome® from the shelves of pharmacies and grocery stores.

When did Bag Balm® change its formula from ethylated mercury to its current anti-infective, 8-hydroxyquinoline? I looked up the formula for Bag Balm® in the database Poisindex®, the same one used by poison centers throughout the United States, but the only formulation I found was the one with 8-hydroxyquinoline. To make sure, I called my local poison center, the Washington State Poison Center in north Seattle, who confirmed that as the only formulation listed for Bag Balm®.

So I went to the source. I called the Dairy Association Company, Inc (http://www.bagbalm.com/), manufacturers of Bag Balm® in Lyndonville, Vermont, and asked them straight out, “When did you swap out the mercury for the 8-hydroxyquinoline? Did the FDA make you do it when they outlawed its use in 1998?”

According to Charles Allen, Vice President of the Dairy Association Company, the mercury was taken out of Bag Balm long before that – in 197, to be exact. But what he said next really surprised me. “Dr. Achey, the anti-infective 8-hydroxyquinoline has been in our formulation all along. We just changed the labeling on the can.” Now, isn’t THAT interesting…


From Wikipedia:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm



Bag Balm is a salve (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salve) developed in 1899 to soothe irritation on cows' (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cattle) udders (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Udder) after milking.[1] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-1)[2] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-ap2010-2) The product is officially only meant for animals and is inspected as such by the United States Food and Drug Administration (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_and_Drug_Administration),[2] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-ap2010-2) but it's also often used as a treatment for chapped and irritated skin (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin) on humans and can be found in places such as drugstores (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pharmacy), ski resorts (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ski_resort), online vendors, needlework stores, and of course farm and feed stores.

History

Bag Balm is made by Dairy Association Co. in Lyndonville (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lyndonville,_Vermont), Vermont (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vermont), and Rock Island (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stanstead,_Quebec), Quebec (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quebec). The product is known for its characteristic 10-oz (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ounce) green square tins featuring a cow's head and red clovers (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clover) on the lid. It has been in production since 1899.[2] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-ap2010-2) The formula was purchased by John L. Norris from a Wells River, Vermont (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wells_River,_Vermont) druggist sometime before the turn of the century. Originally, it was used for only cows' udders, but farmers' wives noticed the softness of their husbands' hands, and started using the product themselves. Imitators include Udderly Smooth Udder Cream (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allantoin) and Udder Balm.[2] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-ap2010-2) In a 1983 report, Charles Kuralt (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Kuralt) reported on CBS that "upward of 400,000 units were shipped annually";[2] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-ap2010-2) more recent sales figures are not disclosed by the company.[2] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-ap2010-2)

Bag Balm was taken to the North Pole by Admiral Byrd, it was used by Allied troops in WWII (to protect weapons from rust), it was used at Ground Zero (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_Zero) in New York after 9/11 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/9/11) for the paws of cadaver-sniffing dogs, and it has been used by American troops in the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan.[2] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-ap2010-2)


Makeup

The active ingredients of Bag Balm are 8-hydroxyquinoline (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/8-hydroxyquinoline) sulfate 0.3% (antiseptic (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antiseptic)) in a petroleum jelly (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_jelly) USP and lanolin (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lanolin) base.[2] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-ap2010-2)
In the past, Bag Balm has been documented as containing 0.005% mercury (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercury_%28element%29) "from ethylated sterols".[3] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-gleason-3)[4] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-reit-4) Mercury was once used in many products as an effective antiseptic (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercury_%28element%29#Medicine),[4] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag_Balm#cite_note-reit-4) although much less commonly today, now that the toxic effects of mercury and its compounds are more widely understood. Mercury is no longer listed as an ingredient in Bag Balm.



Bag Balm is a pretty effective case lube, so are many of the other udder creams. I've done some pretty wild case forming using Bag Balm. Apparently it even provides some rust barrier protection as well.

Bag Balm does not attack cartridge brass like the older mercuric priming compounds would. At least in my experience.


- Bullwolf

[bockja]

If used correctly it's fine. But there are more forgiving lubes out there such as imperial sizing wax or the simple lanolin alcohol mixes.

[lightman]

When I first bought the Dillon lube I followed the directions. I even bought a dedicated cookie sheet. I was not really impressed. Then I heard about using a gallon ziploc bag, and now I'm a fan!

My routine is to give the lube a good long shake. Put a few handful of cases in the ziploc bag and give them a few pumps. Roll them around good and dump them out on a towel. Let the alcohol evaporate and start resizing. I wipe the neck and shoulder of so as to not get lube dents.

[Cherokee]

Tried Dillon, Midway, Lyman and One Shot. I started with One Shot when it came out, tried the others and keep going back to One Shot for rifle and pistol.

[NileCitySlick]

I've had no problems using it. My process is the same as "Uncle R." I've had one stuck case in 1,000's of reloads (mainly 223) and it was all my fault, not the lube - One Shot.