can someone please point me in the right direction?

[Indiana shooter]

I have read most of the stickies and did a quick search but I haven't come up with anything. I'm sure it has been discussed before so if anyone can give me a link or something I'd be grateful.

What I'm looking for is how to blend two alloys into 1 boolit for hunting purposes. An example would be to use something like a lead that has a bhn of 10 on the nose for expansion but a bhn of say 16 on the driving bands to prevent leading.

I have tried but I get a ring where the two alloys blend. It just looks like a point that the boolit would separate at impact.

Thanks in advance.

[Yodogsandman]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/archive/index.php/t-53234.html

Check out how BruceB does it.

[Indiana shooter]

Thanks

[Tatume]

http://lbtmoulds.com/moulds.shtml

SOFTNOSE MOLDS

If for a spitzer we must fit these to the mold they will go in, which means return it to us if you order after you receive the full mold. If for any of the flatnosed bullets they may be ordered at any time without returning the mold. Complete instructions on how to make them work are sent with the mold.

Briefly described, the pot is filled with the soft alloy to be used and a batch of softnoses are cast. The melting pot is then refilled with hard alloy. Softnoses are inserted in the hot regular mold, and the hard alloy welds to them when poured in. Performance is very much like expanding jacketed bullets, and point of impact is exactly the same as all hard bullets, so only the few bullets which will be used on game need be softnose. Theses deliver a tremendous impact for cast bullets, and extend maximum expansion range probably as far out as you can hit reliably.

Shown are an LFN and a SP softnose for 30 caliber. Full magnum revolver loads will be needed to get expansion. With rifles, very mild loads expand out to very long ranges, and of coarse stout loads work very well with proper alloy selection. Mold price is the same as for regular molds. We can put both softnose and full bullet in one mold for $15 extra, but don't recommend it, because you have only a single cavity to work with.

[runfiverun]

Try the Bruce-b method it works.

[btroj]

I got a great deal on a little Lyman 4 pound or so pot years back. I use soft alloy in it, harder in the big pot. Made a dipper from a 9 mm case for the nose.

Bruce's method works well. It isn't gonna make a ton of bullets but how many do you need for hunting?

[Wayne Smith]

According to Bruce and my experience you gotta have molten lead meeting molten alloy. If the base is hard you will get a separation ring.

[BruceB]

According to Bruce and my experience you gotta have molten lead meeting molten alloy. If the base is hard you will get a separation ring.

No, no, nein, non, basta!

The core of the method I use is getting the nose metal COLD, and then adding the harder base material and allowing it to freeze as well.

THEN we float the mould on the melt until the two alloys in the cavity melt together.

This ensures that the two DO NOT MIX, which is a definite possibility if we pour molten metal on top of molten metal.

[fredj338]

IMO, the soft point is just a lot of work. It is easier to get a LHP to work; expand & not lead.

[ballistim]

Several here have recommended the Bruce B. method, and after reading all I'm able to find on it and hearing from several who've had success with it on deer, it's an easy decision for me to work on it for next year's deer season. I plan on finding which design is most accurate in the gun I decide to hunt with, work up the best load as far as accuracy is concerned & then go this route.