PDA

View Full Version : Bottom pour build, heating advise required



Mozz
02-12-2015, 06:20 PM
I am thinking of building a bottom pour pot and thinking heating it via; a Heat Cartridge close to the pour hole and a wrap around heating element. The pot size will be either 4in by 6 in or 6in by 8in.

I intend to switch on the cartridge only when the lead has been heated up to temperature so i can avoid the pour hole from 'freezing' up.

I am stuck with the Wattages required.


How many watts will i need from from the wrap around element?
How many watts will i need from from the cartridge?


Any help would be great.
Mozz

blikseme300
02-13-2015, 12:18 AM
You can see how I did mine here: http://www.bliksemdonder.com/hobbies/cast-boolits/mother-of-all-melters/

I have never had a spout freeze up so I would not be concerned about adding a cartridge heater if insulation is added to the build.

454PB
02-13-2015, 12:38 AM
Your pot will hold 30.9 pounds or 92 pounds of pure lead when filled to the top. I'm guessing a well insulated, wrap around element would need to be 1500 or 2500 watts.

Mozz
02-13-2015, 07:41 AM
Thank you very much guys.

Blikseme300 great pictures and pot.

I will post some pic's once i get it up and runing.

Speedo66
02-13-2015, 03:05 PM
And this is in the lever action section because........?

Flinchrock
02-13-2015, 07:41 PM
And this is in the lever action section because........?

169 posts and you're already a mod?

454PB
02-13-2015, 10:54 PM
Well, bottom pour pots do have a lever on them........

blikseme300
02-14-2015, 07:54 PM
Well, bottom pour pots do have a lever on them........

:cbpour::bigsmyl2::drinks:

JSnover
02-14-2015, 10:52 PM
And this is in the lever action section because........?
I wondered the same thing… But its not worth breaking a sweat. The real moderators can move it if they wish.

Mozz
02-15-2015, 12:58 PM
Ooops i should have put it in the Project section...

Speedo66
02-16-2015, 12:19 AM
169 posts and you're already a mod?

If I was a Mod I would have moved it, not take silly questions. :-o

DLCTEX
02-16-2015, 07:50 PM
I've got more posts than you and I wondered the same thing. A little gental prodding by members may save the moderators some future problems. I would suggest you soften your response in the spirit of family that makes this site a good place.

Ballistics in Scotland
02-20-2015, 04:09 AM
This reminds me that the whole site is about a hunting sport. I think if the OP chooses to post his inquiry elsewhere, the bullet casting board is far better than the projects one. A lot of people who could help never open that one.

I think that if the pot is thick and the spout isn't made of ceramic or something, it should heat up well enough to prevent freezing without a special element.

lar45
02-22-2015, 02:48 PM
I love your handle and spout assembly. I may have to build me one like it.
Does it have anything to stop it from opening too far and the needle getting out of alignment with the spout?

blikseme300
02-22-2015, 10:37 PM
The geometry of the assembly won't let the valve stem move enough for the needle to exit the spout so no need for anything else. It has been my experience that the mass of metal of the spout compared to the Lee units keeps the valve hotter and freezing won't occur. I do prime the spout by dropping a small amount of alloy on the sprue plate before casting the cavities as the small amount of oxidation on the bit of alloy in the lower part of the spout below the needle does create boolits with a slightly lower weight. Probably not important for pistol boolits but for rifle this seems to eliminate the strange fliers if priming is not done.