Lee classic loader bullet seating

[Hogtamer]

Every other bullet (.270) is misaligned somehow when I drop the bullet and folds one side of the brass under when seating. No adjustment that I can see. How do you assure the bullet is in line? Thanks for a fix in advance!

[bedbugbilly]

I only have one Lee classic loader and it's in 38 spl. - have never used it. I understand what's happening from your description - are you belling the case mouth at all? Someone will chime in here who knows much more than I but I have read that a "expander" was available from Lee for these. My set of 38 spl. just happened to have one and the only way I can describe it is that its about an 1 1/2 long - evidently fits in the mouth and you give it a light tap - profile much like a "stepped" Lyman M die expander.

If the problem is no flair or bell to the case mouth and thats what is causing the hang up on one side and the folding - try improvising and flaring the mouth a "tad bit" and see what happens. I've read some insert a set of needle nose pliers in and lightly turn them in the mouth to give a little flair - or, you might have something like a tapered punch or nail set that would do the trick?

You might also want to post if you are using lead or j-words - might help someone with "true experience" to give you an answer. Good luck - you'll get it figured out.

[jcren]

I use Lee dies, what bullet? The expander is sized for standard jacketed bullets, plain based jacketed or oversized lead can easily catch on the case. Have you camphered cases?
Sorry, just caught the Lee loader part, I have a few, and the same rules apply, the bullet should start by hand, camphor or flare the cases better. I have only used the pistol Lee loaders, do the rifle sets come with the expander punch?

[RogerDat]

Most LL kits don't have a flaring tool. The 38 special kit does and flaring tool can be purchased as a single part for $2 http://leeprecision.com/flaring-tool-38.html

38 is 9mm diameter, and your 270 is more like 7mm so it is a **** shoot as to the 38 flaring tool being useful to you. Needle nose pliers will work, slip them in (closed) and give cartridge a turn or two and it will flare a bit.

NOE might be your best bet they make an expander plug for the Lee Universal Expander die you might find that the plug can be used on its own. Or you might tap the cartridge into the universal expander die for expansion. Have not used it so don't know how well it would work that way.

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=88&products_id=1505 at $6.50 it is worth a shot.
http://www.titanreloading.com/specialty-reloading-dies/universal-expanding-die at $12.73 it is a generally useful die for loading cast.

Long term you might want to consider an inexpensive press as others have suggested. One such as this and set of dies is pretty reasonable cost. http://www.titanreloading.com/presses/lee-reloader-press however 270 win is not a round where one typically needs high volume production and the Lee Loader kit is a good way to test different loads and powders by making a few rounds to test fire until you get it just right then make a box of them using that recipe.

[Hogtamer]

Just that Roger. Thanks for the tip.

[gwpercle]

Bevel base and gas checked boolits help. Be sure to de-burr and inside chamfer the case neck. Then put a flair in/on the case neck just enough to get the boolit started into the neck. Do not just drop the boolit in on top of the case, you must get it started into the case first.
Start the boolit into the neck as far as you can get it, make sure it is as straight as you can get it then ease it into the Lee body then insert the seater and tap gently into place. If resistance is met stop and take apart to see if it's crooked. If the boolit starts crooked it's going to stay crooked and ruin the case or the boolit.
Hope this helps
Gary

[RogerDat]

More I think about it the more I like the idea of a small c press and universal expander die. Press can be clamped to the work table and used with the Lee Loader. Cast may be a touch oversized (possibly intentionally, cough * Enfield * cough) and being able to use a small press to flare might make the Lee Loader yield better results.

I know I sometimes shave a sliver of lead off of .38 special cast boolits in the Lee Loader even with the little flaring tool. Makes sense, the loader is sized to specifications of "standard" bullets and unless sized to match that specification cast can be a touch over/under that depending on mold or alloy.

[gwpercle]

The Lee Hand Press is good for this kind of thing. I found the Hand Press so "handy" that I've got two just for flaring, decapping and other little odd jobs. Compact too.
Gary

[jmort]

"I found the Hand Press so "handy" that I've got two..."

I had two, and then got another in a benefit auction. One is dedicated to decapping like your's. Keeps the mounted presses clean.

[big bore 99]

I started out using one for the 45-70. I turned up a taper punch to flare the cases and started them straight by hand before seating them. Worked good for me for a long time before I got a small Lee press. I still use it to deprime and seat primers. They are a great value once you get the process figured out.

[Hogtamer]

OK, "flared" the cases previously fired in my rifle with an old broadhead - several twists did it. No problems after that...Thanks guys! Did find out the hard way that cases not previously fired in my gun will not chamber in my rifle, so will have to full size them. And managed to shoot some today. Factory Federal 130 gr shot 2 moa @ 100 yds & 3 moa @ 200 yds. My recaps were half that!

[barrabruce]

I have loaded thousands of rounds with my 30-30 lee loader.
Was gunna say the same things.
I've got a expander but there is nothing with pointy nose pliers or other tapered object
I made a funnel to pour the powder in the case.
Hand seat your favorite projo and push it up into the lee tool as far as it will go by hand to help alaign case and bullet.
I use hand pressure on my set and twist the seater a bit and you can feel the bullet go in.

I have even gone to the trouble of honing mine out so I don't work the brass much for cast.
And filled it up with some putty steel that you get to fix cars with my guns brass and perfectly as possible seated bullet.
I dunno if it helps any getting the case to size more concentric or not but it made me feel better.

Ohh I have gotton the best accuracy by only partially neck sizing my brass as I feel it all aligns up the the chamber the best I can make it.
Nothing wrong with them if you take your time.
O.k. you can't spit out ammo lickety split
But trying to get all the other muck in your pocket or moving out side enjoying the sun etc etc.
A vice type full length sizer helps when it is needed.

[sthwestvictoria]

With cast bullets and the Lee Loader I have better success with a slight variation from jacketed bullet seating. Instead of dropping a jacketed projectile down the top of the funnel of the powder filling/seating die, with cast I lift up the seating dies, settle the base of the cast bullet into the case mouth, put the seating die back over it and then hit with the seating rod to seat projectile.

For flaring a centre punch does well, the needle nosed pliers as others have said or a jacketed larger projectile like a .308 for .270 cases, 8mm projectile for .308/30-30 etc.