My Mag-20 element went out again

[bhn22]

I only seem to get 4-5 years out of my Lyman Mag-20 heating element. I'll put my last spare in tomorrow. Now to convince Lyman to sell me replacement elements. They always want me to ship the pot halfway across the country, then wait a couple of months for them to get around to it. I've gotten them to ship me elements before, I guess we'll see what happens.

[labradigger1]

Keep us posted, I would like to get a couple extras. Actually, you should order extras and offer them up here for sale to your boolit buddy's.
Lab

[bhn22]

Well, I started taking everything apart so I could verify that the element was bad. So I plugged it in to verify that voltage was getting to the element, and the element started heating up. I unplugged it and let it cool before reassembling. Once assembled again, I plugged it in and let it heat up. It heated to normal temp, so I started casting again. It ran a little over an hour, then stopped heating again, this time I turned up the temp knob to maximum, but it wouldn't come back on. I'll let it cool overnight, and try it again. If it heats, then shuts down again, I think it has to be either the thermostat itself, or the thermocouple, which is part of the thermostat, and is not replaceable seperately.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Buy an aftermarket or install a PID replacement to get better, more accurate casting and control for about the same money as what Lyman if/will sell you the part for.

[bhn22]

I'm pretty sure this is the issue, I'll know more in the morning. I suppose it is time to exit the 20th century and modernize things a bit. The last time I sent the pot to Lyman, they had it for two months, just to replace the heating element. I've done it a number of times, and it's not even a 15 minute job. I can't see sending it there for a couple more months and paying them $50.00+ plus shipping both ways. Time to start researching PIDS I suppose.

[jsizemore]

Check to make sure your connecters and wires are in good shape too. The spade connectors will lose their "springyness" over time and need to be thightened up or replaced. Use Hi-Temp connectors from the appliance parts store.

[bhn22]

Yeah, it's dead now. I see where there's one last hope before I start spending money. The bi-metal switch may have corroded contacts. I'll try cleaning them first.

[Stonecrusher]

Had a similar thing with my Mag-20, after twenty years or so. I could not get it to turn off, the indicator light that is, and it wouldn't heat up the element. Lyman gave the run around about mailing it in. I decided to do the PID thing using parts from Auber. It works really well now, and probably about the same price for shipping and repair cost to Lyman. Do it and you won't be sorry.

[jsizemore]

Yeah, it's dead now. I see where there's one last hope before I start spending money. The bi-metal switch may have corroded contacts. I'll try cleaning them first.

Bummer. Well the PID is a great setup. You can tailor it to whatever alloy your using and regardless of alloy level in the pot, it will keep it there. Plenty of folks on here have gone to it and are willing to help you through construction and setup.

[bhn22]

In case it'll help anyone else who drudges through the archives here someday looking for information, The thermostat that Lyman used on my pot was a Robertshaw 5300-50B, and is marked KNP-6-36. 30Amp, 277 VAC. I don't believe the one on my pot was actually made by Robertshaw since it's marked with a logo that appears to be "CSA" or "CSP". It's also marked "MT961F", which appears to be a lot number or something.