SMLE stock dilemma.

[OptimusPanda]

So here's my dilemma...
This is my SMLE, its a BSA 1917 no1mk3* the bolt and receiver match, the rest is a bit of a hodgepodge. It's in an Ishapore stock which is clearly not original, the magazine and nose cap don't match the bolt, it has a rear sight from a no1mk3 (windage adjustable). There aren't import marks either, or British commercial proofs that the rifle would have needed when it left official service... On to my question though! As can be seen the stock is in bad shape which is a shame considering that it seems to shoot pretty well...Would it be better to refinish the Isapore stock, foreend, and upper handguard? Or try and find a replacement set for hopefully less money than the rifle's worth? Or leave well enough alone and just let it be in an ugly stock? Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

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[Mk42gunner]

To me, since it is a mixmaster nothing is going to really hurt the value. If it was mine, I would go ahead and try refinishing the wood; doing what repairs are needed.

The biggest question is, does it shoot well enough to justify the time spent?

Robert

[Frank46]

I have a Ishapore #IMKIII in 7.62 nato. I think the Indian armorers used native woods that they had on hand. And are extremely adept at patching cracks, splits and gouges. The buttstock my be British but everything is Indian made. I've been thinking along your lines and came to the conclusion that it would be better off to redo what I have rather than source a decent set of wood. I have two #4 forends that have the Ishy screw. The stocks are heavily soaked with whatever they used for a wood preservative. Will probably fashion up a scraper and use that prior to even think about sanding. Frank

[303Guy]

Try using a scotch brite pad to clean it up. I cleaned up an Israeli K98 stock using boiled linseed oil and turpentine. It was probably the turpentine that did the cleaning but oils clean stuff too. That's genuine turpentine, not mineral turps. Boiled linseed oil and turpentine makes a pretty good stock enhancer.

Fine steel wool soaked in the above would work too.

[square butte]

I've got one (SMLE) with a cut down front end. Always wanted to return it to military configuration but never could find a good source for a walnut replacement to match the butt.

[docone31]

You can use a #1MKIII stock on an Ishapore, I have done it, or an Ishapore on a #1MKIII. The Ishapore being 7.62 is a slightly different line to compensate for the differences between the .303, and the 7.62. Different tragectories. Both interchange easily, and if bedding is done well, it is an excellent set up.
The woods are different, and both look excellent refinished.
I replaced wood on an Ishy with #1MKIII wood. Good fit with little shaping.
Rifle looked real good when finished with Tru-Oil.

[leebuilder]

Good info here. Not familiar with the 2 and 2A stocks, with proper bedding you can fix it. If it is not cracked or weak i would refnish it.
I use oven cleaner to strip that old finish off then stain and tung oil.
Here is a 22 conversion i did a few years back. Wish i had a before pic.
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good luck

[OptimusPanda]

Thanks guys, I was kinda headed down the "refinish" path myself. On a related note though, anyone know if the top handguard will swell a bit when moisture reenters the wood from the cleaning? When I bought it it was loose so I put a thin cork strip under it to tighten up the fit.

[John Allen]

Before you refinish. Get yourself one of the scotchbrite sponge pads and murphys oil soap. I have scrubbed quite a few stocks that looked horrible and most came up much nicer. I use the murphys oil soap straight and use a lot of it. I let the stock dry some in between each time. I also have tried lemon oil on the stock after I was done it seems to make the stock lighter. The lemon oil is in the same aisle as the murphy oil soap.

[Multigunner]

If you refinish a stock you might as well go whole hog.

I've used paint and varnisn stripper to start then repeated applications of a strong solution of tri sodium phosphate to draw oil and dirt from deep in the wood. Then finish with a rinse of common household Hydrogen Peroxide 3% solution.
Any dents can be drawn out using a damp cloth and an iron.
If you want to apply a stain thin the stain with alcohol and even out the color by letting the surface almost but not quite dry before each application. The more porous areas will stay damp longer and less of following applications will soak in while the dry areas will soak up a bit more.

I've been experimenting with a SMLE and a Marlin Model 99 M1 walnut stocks completely stripped and dried. I have used only ballistol solvent to treat these after each cleaning. With each wipe down the color becomes richer and the grain stands out more.
The Marlin stock looks especially nice. The factory finish had obscured what turned out to be a beautiful fiddle back grain.
Ballistol has amazing properties and is as near completely safe as a solvent can be.
It takes very little to wipe down a stock, a very small piece of soft cloth just moistened will do the job.

India received thousands of WW1 surplus SMLE rifles before WW2 so a British made SMLE in an Indian made replacement stock is not unusual.

[OptimusPanda]

303guy, how did you use the turpentine? Was it wiped on an left to sit? How long did the stock have to dry and air out before using the linseed oil as a finish?

[docone31]

I use Easy Off! to strip stocks. Spray on, let sit, wash off.
Does a through job, cleans up easily, and ready to go.
Simple.

[303Guy]

303guy, how did you use the turpentine? Was it wiped on an left to sit? How long did the stock have to dry and air out before using the linseed oil as a finish?The turpentine and linseed oil is mixed and I used a coarse cloth. I poured the mix onto the cloth and rubbed away. It took off all the grime build-up. For doing a linseed oil finish, the turpentine is used too. It's a hard slog method of finishing a gun stock but the results are rather nice.

I polished a linseed oil finished stock which was rough by rubbing with a used Scotch Brite pad. Stock or any wood is polished by wiping with a damp cloth then leaving to dry followed by very fine sand paper or a Scotch Brite pad.

[OptimusPanda]

Thanks to everyone who responded! When we finally get some warm days I'm gonna try out the turpentine and linseed oil mainly because that's what I happen to have on hand..Strikes me as an outside activity and it's done nothing but snow and stay below freezing here lately.