Portable Target Stand

[Petrol & Powder]

I'm looking for a simple, cheap and very portable target stand. Ideally it would be about 55" tall, sit on the ground (no spikes or pegs driven in the ground) and easily collapse into a fairly small space for transport.


I had one of those "H" shaped metal stands that held a pair of 1"x2" furring strips and I really liked it but the length of the wooden supports was a problem for transport.

My first thought was some sort of metal pipe base (for weight), with detachable and telescoping vertical poles for the uprights? Perhaps the upper portion could be easily replaced 1" x 2" furring strips.

Any ideas?

[Artful]

2x2 w/ pvc couplers

[unclebill]

i use realtor sign frames
the kind you pound the 2 legs in the ground
i bolt a hunk of plywood or whatever to it
i leave it in the back of the truck along with a 3 lb hammer so i always have it

[bedbugbilly]

How about PVC pipe? Make the base of larger schedule 40 with opposing Tees for slipping in uprights of a smaller diameter. With tees, elbows and connectors - it could be constructed in shorter sections for easy take-down - cement the fittings on one end only and when assembling, just slide the next piece in. It could be designed so that furring strip pieces could be attached with a bolt and wing nut to the side uprights. If they got shot up over time - easy enough to replace. If the base was too light, even out of larger schedule 40 - the front and back piece or the two sides could be filled with cement. I suppose you would have to experiment with the base to keep it stable depending upon what the wind conditions are where you shoot. Just a suggestion . . . your post has got me to thinking about my own situation. I have a 50 yard range (on the farm) but whatever I put up usually ends up getting shot up over time. Right now, I'm using a piece of CDX for a backer leaning against a sawhorse. I had, at one time, a wood frame permanently installed in the ground with two 2 X 2 cross pieces with a 3/8 X 1/2 inc deep groove length wise. It worked well as I could cut up 2' X 4' pieces of old paneling and slide them in to tape my targets to. When too shot up, a new piece for a backer was easily slid in and out.

Directly behind my target is a soft earth hill which catches the slugs and beyond that there is nothing. Directly behind my target frame was a clump of 4 red cedar trees that had grown from one stump - all about 6 to 8 inches in diameter. We have an over abundance of red cedar trees thanks to the birds eating the berries, which don't digest and pas on through. It's been behind the target ever since I set it up years ago and regardless of bullets hitting it, it is still thriving. Imagine my surprise one day though when I was shooting . . . a 22 rifle no less . . . and all of a sudden one of then 4 sections slowly tipped forward and fell! I used to shoot NSSA and loved the "stake chopping" event and even though it took years, I guess I succeeded in "chopping" one of the cedar trunks down!

It will be interesting to see what suggestions show up to your post as I'm sure there are many of us who would love a "easy - portable" target frame.

[GhostHawk]

I use a couple of old steel tent poles, pounded into the ground and a 10 foot piece of string, with clothespins to attach targets, clay pigon's, pop cans or whatever.

But they are pounded into the ground.

I think you could do it with a couple of gallon jugs filled with sand/cat liter with a PVC pipe coming up from the base.
Keep it fairly low and you shouldn't have problems.

[Petrol & Powder]

i use realtor sign frames
the kind you pound the 2 legs in the ground
i bolt a hunk of plywood or whatever to it
i leave it in the back of the truck along with a 3 lb hammer so i always have it

10-4, been down that path and it works but I'm trying to avoid something that has to be driven into the ground.

[jmorris]

I built this one that uses 1x2's can be made any size you want and strips through the feet give it stability without having to stake down.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/IMAG0326.jpg

[LUCKYDAWG13]

i use this make it the size you like 129222

[Petrol & Powder]

I built this one that uses 1x2's can be made any size you want and strips through the feet give it stability without having to stake down.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/IMAG0326.jpg

Yep. that's sort of what I want but I would like to come up with some way to make the vertical pieces more compact.
It needs to be stowed in the already full, trunk of a car. The base isn't too difficult but there's no room for a pair of 5' long furring strips. I though of making some type of cheap coupler that would allow me to assemble a few shorter sections of 1"x2"'s together for the vertical posts.

[Petrol & Powder]

i use this make it the size you like 129222
Saw that on another thread and really liked it.

[rondog]

Mine. The base and frame are separate, the frame fits into the base. Simple, cheap, and stable in the wind, but probably won't fit in a car trunk. 48" tall and 24" wide. I've made several, my club uses something very similar but with angle iron bases.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/targets%20and%20stands/DSCN3451-1.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/targets%20and%20stands/DSCN3453-1.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/targets%20and%20stands/DSCN3452-1.jpg

[rondog]

i use this make it the size you like 129222

Saaaay, I'm a likin' that! I may just steal that idea! A clanger hanger with no welding needed, what a concept.

[LUCKYDAWG13]

i think it cost just under $40 to make that AR500 steel is the way to go on the gong from 22 LR to 30/06

[rondog]

i think it cost just under $40 to make that AR500 steel is the way to go on the gong from 22 LR to 30/06

Is that including the gong? Those things are pricey, I know. I have a bunch of railroad track tie plates and need a hanger for them. They don't ring like AR500, but they were free and still fun to shoot, especially with M2 armor piercing rounds!

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/targets%20and%20stands/DSCN3301.jpg

[LUCKYDAWG13]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AR500-STEEL-GONG-3-8-X-10-SHOOTING-TARGET-TGARD015-/131291632370?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e919752f2

[bedbugbilly]

LUCKYDOG and others - Most of my shooting is at paper, cans, clay pigeons, etc. with 38s - cast only - from distances of from 15 to 50 yards. I've never played with the gong plates so have a couple of (probably ignorant) questions.

The plate like LUCKYDOG provided a link for . . . . do these have to have (or should they be) hung with the bottom of it angled back to spray any lead downwards? At what distances is it really safe to shoot a steel plate without "bounce back" of the slug or problems with spattering lead? I'd love to hang a plate I could hear ring when plinking but have been somewhat hesitant without knowing just what is safe. I should add that I use light loads in the 38s and mainly do plinking - nothing serious and nothing near the "max loads" - also shoot .36 cap and ball revolver as well as smokeless and BP cartridges.

I'll also add that my 50 yard range is on the farm - my target is in front of a clump of red cedars with a soft dirt hill behind. This past summer, after shooting some lead boolit 9mm cartridges, I was attempting to find some of the ejected brass. In the process, I came across a "spent lead slug" about 15 feet in front of the target. I just happened to spot it. I'm the only one who shoots there (it's behind my house) and I honestly didn't recognize what it was - it resembled nothing that I cast or shoot - sort of looked like a spent WC but no lube grooves at all and fairly intact. My bullets either enter the soft red cedar clump or travel beyond in to the hole so it has me puzzled but it got me to thinking about what was really a safe distance to shoot steel plates? Thanks for any advice.

Some pretty nice designs shown!

[Artful]

they used to say 25 yards but had to many tags from bounce backs so the NRA moved 'em further back to 40 meters.

[jeepyj]

I play with some different designs in hopes to someday compete in a local competitions these are all freestanding. Hopefully you can make out the photos to show examples. The first one is a silhouette with a head shot. The second rings the best and has the ability to change the size of the gong. The third is a converted factory and rings quite well. The forth swings but really doesn't ring at all but is easy to tell that it has been hit because it swings so well. All are held together with simple hitch pins and can be set up in just a few minutes. All are made from scrap pipe and AR 500 for the gongs and are angled towards the ground. Note..I use the only for handgun shooting. Very few $$$ invested in the whole lot and all have been shot in the thousands of times.
jeepyj


129271

129272

129273

129274

[LUCKYDAWG13]

do these have to have (or should they be) hung with the bottom of it angled back to spray any lead downwards? At what distances is it really safe to shoot a steel plate without "bounce back" of the slug or problems with spattering lead? I'd love to hang a plate I could hear ring when plinking

yes its best to angle the bottom down hang the changes on the back and the gong will tilt down if just shooting lead
i have been as close as 25' but that's with a cast boolit with my 223 its at 50 yards or more that AR500 steel is
good stuff

dream range https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LXzKK6Pqk0

[country gent]

With my electronic muffs I hear the ring of the shillouettes when hit chickens rams turkeys pigs and rams ( rams are at 500 yds) but this is with 400 - 500 grn bullets cast from 20-1 alloy. As to the OPs wanting multiple piece uprights. Make the target frame up with PVC pipe and tees. use pipe in the lengths wanted and couplings. You can glue the "frame together and one end of the couplers to pipe. 2" pipe feet 3' long filled with sand and capped on ends. You mill need to cut a plug for in the tee upright to keep sand from running out.

[RP]

My son pointed out to me on hanging targets like steel for taking a lot of rounds and holding up recaps make great hangers. Chain and other things seem to fail from time to time but the recap off a tire bolted to the steel will take a lot of abuse. I have not tried it yet but sure sounds like a workable plan.

[Cowpoke]

I made 5 of these for our 4-H group but I didn't glue them. The bases can be taken apart and put in a large duffel bag for storage.
http://www.n***.org/tv_magazines/images/GITG_PVC_target_stand.pdf

[jmorris]

Is the op looking for stands for steel or paper targets?

[Petrol & Powder]

Is the op looking for stands for steel or paper targets?

Paper for this project.

[Dan Cash]

Is that including the gong? Those things are pricey, I know. I have a bunch of railroad track tie plates and need a hanger for them. They don't ring like AR500, but they were free and still fun to shoot, especially with M2 armor piercing rounds!

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/targets%20and%20stands/DSCN3301.jpg

Shooting that plate is hazardous in the extreme. When a projectile hits one of the divots on the edge, it will ride the divot and return to you with a vengeance.

[jmorris]

Paper for this project.

What size is the target you are wanting to hold?

[Petrol & Powder]

About 18" x 24"

[jmorris]

How high do you want it to hold the target and how much room are you willing to allow for it?

[SwedeNelson]

Have one in our web-store
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=66&products_id=248&osCsid=h3tm22mmcoav6uib74nmd88uk6

Bullet maker, maker
Swede Nelson

[Petrol & Powder]

I'd like the top of the target to be about 5' off the ground. It would be good if I could make the vertical sections collaspe down to no more than the width of the base, say about 24".

[jmorris]

If you have to stay that short the PVC elbows and union idea above might work. Maybe fill the bottom section with sand and put on end caps?

Fiber glass tent poles might do the job too but PVC is cheap and you can pick it up at any hardware store.

[Artful]

I'd use the pvc only for the "T"'s and joints and cheap lumber for the rest.

$6.74 / each

JM eagle 1-1/2 in. x 10 ft. PVC Sch. 40 DWV Plain End Pipe

(http://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle-1-1-2-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Sch-40-DWV-Plain-End-Pipe-1727/203308693?N=5yc1vZbuf5Z1z0x2dc)

2X2X8 TOP CHOICE FURRING STRIP

Item #: 4513 | Model #: LBR-4513
http://lowes.ugc.bazaarvoice.com/static/0534/translucent.gif Be the first to write a review! $1.97
(http://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle-1-1-2-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Sch-40-DWV-Plain-End-Pipe-1727/203308693?N=5yc1vZbuf5Z1z0x2dc)

[Petrol & Powder]

The base isn't too difficult. PVC with sand or black iron pipe (because I already have some) and some T's & end caps. It's the uprights that I'd like to shrink. I'm thinking some type of coupler for furring strips so that I could assemble them like tent poles.
Work is intruding and I may have to get back to this later in the year.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

[jmorris]

It's the uprights that I'd like to shrink. I'm thinking some type of coupler for furring strips so that I could assemble them like tent poles.


You could make couplers for the out of 1x2 box tube or a corrdless drill, screws and more strips of wood.

I would rather have a one piece stand that took up the equivalent room of a fishing pole than a bunch of parts though. Especially in a trunk that is so full of other stuff there is no room for a "normal" target stand.

[BruceB]

Easy, simple, cheap, fast, compact, NO construction at all......

1. Get two five-foot lengths of 1/2" rebar.

2. Get a large-ish sheet of cardboard, fold it in half, and tape it in that configuration.

3. Drive the rebar into the ground maybe a foot or less, depending on ground type and condition, spaced a bit less than the cardboard is wide.

4. Slip the cardboard over the rebar for target backing.

Windproof, plenty stiff enough to allow stapling targets to the cardboard. Cost? maybe two or three bucks for rebar, and cardboard is easily mooched from furniture stores etc.

Stores ABSOLUTELY FLAT in car trunk or garage.

A scuff of a boot will eliminate all traces of the the spots where the rebar was driven into the ground.

A T-post driver makes the job extremely fast and easy.

We've used this system for many years at the Nevada Cast Bullet Shoot, where the weather is often VERY windy, and even has snow or rain. Works perfectly.

To hang steel targets, add a length of pipe (preferably steel..... electrical conduit works fine) with a hole drilled in one side at each end to slip over the rebar posts. Then, short chains can be hung from the ends of the pipe to support steel targets.

.

[bobthenailer]

I use Unique Tec's target stand with a 6' 1x2 furing strips cut in half with a cabinet hinge the middle with a lock on the other side of the 1x2 now my 6' 1x2 is 3' long.

[jmar254]

This has always peaked my interest http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1426

[Old Coot]

I use 14 to 16 inch steel rims from the junk yard. Weld a piece of 2x2" tubing (about 8" long) to each edge 180* from each other.
or 1x1.5" channel and use appropriate lumber 1x2 or 2x2 furring strips. Staple cardboard to the wood uprights. It will resist wind, but here in N. AZ It blows pretty good sometimes (30 to 50 knots is common in the spring) and you may need to add some weight (sand bag, big rocks, etc) to the rim. Brodie