.223 jackets already point formed.......

[wonderwolf]

I'm not sure if you could core seat with these all in one step with a point form die but for some the price might be right......

http://polygunbag.com/.223EmptyJacketsLargerView.html

[xman777]

wow. I'm interested to know how to make that work.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Melt the cores in the jackets...????

[xman777]

Yuck. try gettin all those little boogers to stand up and take the lead... I'd need some kind of metal organizer to stand them up in the kiln

[anotherred]

At $.055 apiece (plus shipping), I'll stick to rimfire brass for jackets.

[wonderwolf]

Yuck. try gettin all those little boogers to stand up and take the lead... I'd need some kind of metal organizer to stand them up in the kiln


make a metal test tube tray with holes drilled so they sit as far up on the ogive as you can go without getting to the body diameter.

I just thought I would point them out, those being a fully enclosed tip might interest some. I won't be getting any I have enough rimfire to last me for the life of my walnut hills press I think :wink:

[customcutter]

Melt the cores in the jackets...????

It might not be that hard to make a D reamer and make your own mold to stand the jackets in. Then cut off the sprues????

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

CC, that is a good idea until you start fiddling with a hot mold and those small jackets...and trying to get them in the cavity and closing the mold squarely on them LOL!

My fat fingers would get burnt purty quickly!

[tiger762]

Hmmm, been thinking about this. I think pouring molten lead into the formed jacket is a non-starter. But how about sit swaged cores into the jackets and use an oxygen-free heat source (i.e. propane) to melt the lead in place, then let it cool? Might be trial-n-error to get the exact right core weight to use. Once that has been found, use the propane to heat the jackets, to melt the lead. Just thinking out loud here.

Personally? I wouldn't mess with it. They're asking close to the same price as RCE's gilding metal jackets: 0.705" ($10.35/200) and 0.800" ($11.75/200). It's tempting to think that there would be less work involved, but the finished product will have loose cores. As the lead cooled, it shrank away from the inside of the jacket. Some of that can be mitigated through the use of flux.

[perotter]

I'd bet that these aren't 0.224 in diameter and aren't made for melted lead to be poured in.

Also, I'd say either the point needs to be filled with a filler or a pointed core has to be used.

[tiger762]

Oh, I am sure that lead was melted OUT of them. Years ago Hi-Tech sold empty 30cal jackets. I bought a couple thousand thinking to do something similar. I think these are just novelties.

[fredj338]

Why? How?

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Yup, lead was melted out of themI bet.

[perotter]

I doubt the lead was melted out. They look just like FMJ jackets before the lead is swaged in.

[BT Sniper]

I doubt the lead was melted out. They look just like FMJ jackets before the lead is swaged in.

+1 Yep! These should be the first step to making FMJ bullets.

[perotter]

+1 Yep! These should be the first step to making FMJ bullets.

These or the dies. I'd really rather have FMJ bullets but given the extra steps and extra dies needed, I likely will always just buy what I need. I'll just stick to swaging easier bullets.

[tiger762]

For the 30cal I got, yes. They were tracers that were first made chemically inert and then the lead melted out. I had bought some 50BMG tracer jackets in the past as well. You can tell they were tracers 'cuz there was no boat tail, just like the ones the OP posted.


Yup, lead was melted out of themI bet.

[xman777]

So, BT Sniper, how would we make these jackets work? Just swage in the point forming die? It seems like these should work.