Mold mallet/ Sprue Knocker

[Casting_40S&W]

Hey Ya'll fellow boolit casters, I myself use a hard wood dowel, but what is everybody else using?

[jmort]

Gloved hand

[country gent]

I use a small 8-10 ounce leather faced dead blow hammer I made up. Brooks ( Steve Brooks moulds) recomends this on his website and ut works very well for me. A small plastic cap hammer works well also. I have used hammer handles, and other wood shats with decent results but the 2 hammers work way better for me.

[kenyerian]

Glove hand on most of my molds.

[M-Tecs]

http://www.buffaloarms.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=161427&CAT=3905 Lasts forever

[Hickok]

Gloved hand+1. When everything gets up to proper temperature, gloved hand.

[fredj338]

+1. When everything gets up to proper temperature, gloved hand.
And there is the key. The first few pours are not likely to break free with a gloved hand, especially 4-6cav molds. I use a hardwood hammer handle.

[Rustyleee]

Never thought of a gloved hand. All my casting in the past has been 240 gr .44s or 210 gr .41s. I usually go pretty fast once I get started. a 14" piece of hammer handle with a screwdriver bit epoxied into the bottom so I don't have to set it down once I get started.

[wv109323]

I use a closet rod. I is about a 1 1/2" diameter and is made from soft popular wood. I just had 12-14 inches left over from the closet.

[bangerjim]

I GENTLY tap the sprue plate with a rawhide leather mallet. Last almost forever. Perfect weight and gets the job done.

If you preheat your molds on a hotplate to almost casting temp (as recommended by many on here) B4 starting, your sprues will cut perfectly with just a nudge. AND........your boolits will drop perfectly from the 1st one! No more throw-backs from cold mold wrinkes/poor fills.

[imashooter2]

14 inches of a broken sledge hammer handle when a gloved hand won't do the job.

[Naphtali]

I wear welder's gloves and use my thumbs. I don't cast many bullets. I suspect not beating on the sprue cutter assembly allows it to last longer.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Many casters use a gloved hand with good results. I found that a two inch diameter x 14 inch section of dowel made of Ash cur from a broken baseball bat worked well for me. it didn't splinter much but got pretty ugly looking after countless dings. i also used with success a rawhide mallet from the leatherworking world. A third item that worked very well is a plastic hammer (the one sold in Harbor freight with a replaceable screw on head) It dings a little but has lasted several years so far. A fourth tool is the lead hammer....a small size V-8 juice can is about the right size, but lead gets dinged out of shape pretty easy so plan on replacing it after a while. A fifth tool that will work is an old fashioned wooden mallet such as used to tap on woodworking chisels. One doesn't have to beat the sprue---just tap it to cut and an occasional tap on the handle hinges to get the bullets to fall free. None of what is previously mentioned will harm the mold in any way. None of my molds show any sign of wear after many years of work. LLS

[John Boy]

Casting - the only thing that touches any of my molds is a gloved hand cutting the sprue - Period!
If casters have to hit the mold or the sprue plate for any reason tells me ... Inexperience!
If one has to whack the sprue plate to cut the sprue - casting too cold
Some bullets will not drop from the cavity. When this happens - Tap the handle bolt or Tap on one of the handle arms with the front end of a hickory hammer handle

[upnorthwis]

I've got enough problems with my right hand and arm that I don't need to be cutting sprues with it. Hammer handle for me.

[M-Tecs]

If casters have to hit the mold or the sprue plate for any reason tells me ... Inexperience!


Haven't cast with many eight and ten cavity H&G's have you?

[labradigger1]

I started a thread about this sometime back. General consensus was if you don't use a glove you don't know what you are doing.
I don't use a glove because of carpal tunnel and they make my hands cramp up.
I whack every mold spruce plate I have in iron and then whack the hinge rivet. Right or wrong it works for me and in all my years I have never damaged a mold yet.
I personally prefer to allow my sprue to harden a little more than most, do whatever works for you.
I use a piece of dense ipe wood for my whacker.
Enjoy the ride!
Lab

[lightman]

I use a small plastic mallet, probably about 8 oz.

[brassrat]

I haven't used gloves, so far. I use a hammer with a plastic screw-on end. I started with a bolt sunk in a SS condiment cup full of lead. That worked but not needed. I'm a newb. with plenty of gloves including a fancy, brand new, old stock, asbestos pair but I drop my boolets on the gloves instead lol

[dikman]

I made a smallish wooden hammer, using Australian Oak (very hard wood). It worked well, but I ended up gluing two layers of hard 1/4" thick leather to one face. It seems to work better with the leather as the striking surface. As for using gloves, I tried that and it wouldn't work for me (yes, before you ask, the mold was hot enough!).

[wlc]

I use the cut off handle end of an old axe handle about 14-16 inches long. I don't typically have to hit the sprue plate and use a gloved hand there, but do have to tap the hinge pin of the handles at times to get all the bullets to fall out.

[Cmm_3940]

I've been using the same random ~1.5" piece of hardwood that I grabbed off the firewood pile for a couple years now. The bark is long gone. Just a tap on the sprue, and a few more on the hinge if they want to hang around.

[gmsharps]

A Hickory hammer handle works well. Also a rawhide mallet works but the price difference between the two the hammer handle wins out.

gmsharps

[bobthenailer]

Brownells , # 1 small 4 oz rawhide mallet
Been using the same one for over 25 years, it will last forever, I have made many 100K boolets with it!

[JSnover]

Just a common screwdriver; hold the shaft, knock the plate open with a tap of the plastic handle.

[SSGOldfart]

I use a pine casting box just tap the spruce plate on a removable cross piece I can't hold the mold with one hand and hit with the other I've only got one now

[LenH]

I have an 8 cavity H & G and their mold instructions advise to use a lead hammer. I found the instructions on this site and it works quite well.
I use it for all of the 4 cavity molds also. I have several Lyman 2 cavity molds but haven't cast with those in quite a while.

I've even used an ingot shaped like a half ear of corn. When it gets un usable just stick it in the melt.

Len H.

[Kraschenbirn]

Several years ago, I picked up two hickory-handled, 8 oz rubber mallets from the 'going out of business' sale of a small-town hardware store. I use one as a 'sprue knocker' and the other is on the 'spares' shelf of my tool cabinet with the price tag still attached...where it will probably be found when the contents of my workshop are sold off sometime after my demise.

Bill

[dpoe001]

i deal with hot metal all the time so i have real thick heat gloves

[tmc-okc]

Being a fairly new caster I - USED - a leather mallet to strike the sprue plate then the hinge bolt. Since I have become slightly more experienced I use the leather mallet on the hinge bolt after opening the sprue plate with my gloved hand. The process goes a little faster for me this way.
Ron H

[Wayne Smith]

I've got a couple of 4 cavity molds that, as they warm up, need to be knocked to break the sprue. I've taken to laying the end of the mold down on my towel so that the sprue plate doesn't swing. I use an old hammer handle that I bought years ago but did not fit my hammer head.

[Remiel]

gloved hand and a small wooden mallet

[tazman]

If casters have to hit the mold or the sprue plate for any reason tells me ... Inexperience!


I wouldn't call 40 years of casting inexperienced. I use a hickory hammer handle. Saves the wear and tear on my hands. My molds don't seem to have suffered any from the usage over the years either. Some of them have many thousands of boolits through them.

[M-Tecs]

Most of my 8 & 10 cavity H&G's came from a commercial caster. He first used a lead hammer and later a rawhide mallet. I use a rawhide mallet or a plastic rod http://www.buffaloarms.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=161427&CAT=3905.

I know he cast well over 1/2 million bullets with one of the 10 cavity 68's that I currently own. I have only cast maybe 20K with it. The mold and sprue plate are also like new.

Tazman - same as you I have been casting for 44 years. Only own a couple of single cavity for BPCR and a few doubles. Maybe fifty four cavity, a few five cavity, a dozen six cavity and about a dozen eight and ten cavity. Maybe if I am lucky in another 44 years I will no longer be Inexperienced

[ipijohn]

I use a 12" long 1" wood dowell that is wrapped with plastic electricians tape. Have used the same one for many years. I am not as old as some of you folks, but I have been casting this way for 50 YEARS.

[rototerrier]

Gloved hand and a scrap piece of pine if I need to get the boolits to drop, which I usually don't. Most of my molds drop pretty well.

[N4AUD]

A maple mallet I turned on a lathe.

[Ola]

Well this is surprising. I thought that everyone here in CB have stopped beating the molds long, loooong time ago. I read about the welders cloves -trick here some years ago, tried it and never went back. Just because it is more convenient and way faster. I just hate juggling around with a hammer or stick.
---
Disclaimer: The next is NOT the "best and only correct way" to cast bullets. Just an example.
---
This how I cast at the moment, the technique seems to be "evolving" a little all the time:

1. I hold the mold in the left hand and operate the valve with right hand (RH).
2. Cut the sprue with RH
3. Dump the sprue on the RH and toss it in the pot
4. open the mold and let the bullets drop into water
5. close the mold
6. close the sprue plate with RH
7. repeat

I do this cycle as fast as I can because the purpose is to get more bullets to shoot. There is only a little pause, between (1) and (2), if necessary (usually not). The reason for (3): I use 6 cav that will empty my Lee pot way too fast: putting the already hot sprues back in helps to keep the lead level and temperature up.

The positive side effect is I'll never let the sprue solidify so much that I have to beat the sprue plate.

And if the bullets do not drop when you open the mold: "Leementing" is the right way to proceed.

[labradigger1]

I think an important fact is being overlooked.
It is my opinion that single and double cavity molds (especially aluminum molds) open easier and drop boolits easier than multiple gang molds.
Bhn plays a HUGE part in how easily the sprue plate parts off the sprue.
Hollow point pins play a huge part.
I have many 4 gang Lyman molds and brass noe molds and I lightly whack them with my whacker.
Ymmv but my preferred method and being right handed is,
Hold the mold in my left hand and whacker in my right.
Place mold under bottom pour spout with left hand and raise the pour handle with my right while still holding the whacker.
Move the mould to one of two wooden trays and place it on the edge of the tray to allow sprue to harden and to give my hand a break from holding the direct weight.
Next I whack the sprue plate and release the sprue into the sprue/cull tray. I never drop the sprue back into the pot because sooner or later you will get splashed.

Then I move the mold over the boolit tray and turn upside down and whack the hinge rivet and drop the boolits.
It is very important to me to not have any wasted movements in casting. The whacker never leaves my right hand and the mold never leaves my left. Everything is one fluid function.
Less time casting means more time loading and shooting.
If whacking the mold works for you then whack it,
If opening with gloves works and the boolits release then use gloves.
There is no right or wrong the way i see it, do what works for you and enjoy the process.
Lab

[jmort]

In the immortal words of Deng Xiaoping, "It doesn't matter whether a cat is white or black, as long as it catches mice."

[country gent]

Whacking, tapping or hitting dosnt truly descride the action alot use with a mallet, hammer or handle. When I open the sprue plate with the small dead blow hammer it is more of a running push on the sprue plate than an actual tap or blow. When a bullet sticks then light tapping on the hinge pin to vibrate the blocks to free it. I also gice 2 -3 light taps on mould fingers to make sure blocks are fully closed. ( again a tip picked up on brooks moulds website). I also use a couple sets of cabin tree locking mould handles with good results. Cutting the sprue is more of a push thru than a smack or hit.

[jmort]

I use a glove if at all possible. But, it is impossible to use any implement to strike a sprue plate that will not exert force up or down on the sprue plate. It may be of no consequence, but I doubt it with most molds. A steel mold, built like a tank, can take a whole lot more in terms of non-linear impact. My goal is to exert the least amount of up/down force to the sprue plate. A gloved hand is the best option in my opinion, but even then, there will be some non-linear force. If you use a stick or hammer, that is a time honored method.

[Ola]

I never drop the sprue back into the pot because sooner or later you will get splashed.

Lab
I thought the same way in the past. But after I started using the welders gloves that changed. The glove covers the entire opening of the pot when I drop the sprue in. So if there is a splash, it will hit only the glove.

[labradigger1]

I thought the same way in the past. But after I started using the welders gloves that changed. The glove covers the entire opening of the pot when I drop the sprue in. So if there is a splash, it will hit only the glove.

Hopefully

[Patrick L]

I too have adopted a rawhide mallet for the molds that require tapping. Of course the Lee six bangers with their built in sprue cutter rock!

[dikman]

I tried welding gloves but don't like them, for this particular use, as I don't have much "feel" because they are too thick and clumsy for my liking. The thinner leather gloves I use aren't any good for sprue cutting (hurts my hand). I pretty much do like labradigger, the small wooden hammer doesn't leave my hand when casting.

Works for me.

[gwpercle]

Old hickory wood hammer handle, no sense throwing away a good piece of hickory after replacing the hammer handle so it became recycled to tap open moulds .
Mamma always said " waste not, want not".
Gary

[LUCKYDAWG13]

Gloved hand

[Charley]

Hammer from an H&G mold.128896

[robg]

used to use an old chair leg when it broke i started using a light weight thor hammer with nylon replaceable faces

[Tonto]

I turned a small hickory mallet to replace an old hammer handle that I used for twenty years. It really depends on the mould, alloy and my mood at the time of casting. Why use your gloved hand when a tool of wood, leather or plastic will work? Having the mallet helps with my casting cadence too and keeps me just a little further away from something very hot. Reminds me of barehanded catches in baseball, I suspect glove handlers here know what I mean. Whatever works, no judgement or snarky responses.

[Mark Daiute]

I have a piece of ash that was once part of the frame for a cot. I tap the sprue plate gently and I always drop the sprue back into the lead pot, totally cognizant of the likelihood of lead splash-back. It's a smooth operation that started when I was 10 or so and now I'm 61.

[GCBurner]

I use a hardwood cocktail muddler to tap open the sprue plate. When I'm through casting, it goes back on the bar for making Mint Juleps and Mojitos.

[montana_charlie]

Gloved hand (the same deerskin gloves I use for driving, loading hay, and fixing fence)



I whack every mold spruce plate I have.

I use a piece of dense ipe wood for my whacker.
Is it denser than spruce?

[cajun shooter]

When some one states that they use any kind of implement to move the sprue plate, that does not say how much speed or force they use. To assume that they are hitting home runs with a bat of ash is a bit wrong to say the least. I've been casting since 1971 and I use a hardwood hammer handle that is sold in stores as a replacement. One should not have to explain himself to anyone but I'll play along on this one. While working as a police officer and working what is called "extra duty" for funds to keep the home running, I was working in a club that had dancing girls. They had three men who were drunk and trying to get on the stage with the girls. I went to break it up and the fight began. I was able to knock out two of them before the third grabbed me from behind. There is a technique that is used to release yourself from such a hold. I did it and it worked except the force sent my right hand and forearm through the front plate glass window. When I looked down, I could see bone and other things hanging out of my wrist area. My right hand no longer has any feeling at all.
When I cast, I choose to use the hammer handle while holding the mold in my left hand. I use bullplate
mold lube and the push is not with any great force.
I choose not to wear a glove on my right hand because I have suffered severe burns since my injury because I cant feel anything. That is why I try to keep my right hand as far away from all possible trouble. If that says that I don't know what I'm doing, then I'm ready to sign up for the remedial classes. Give me the time and place. Later David

[jmort]

"When some one states that they use any kind of implement to move the sprue plate, that does not say how much speed or force they use. To assume that they are hitting home runs with a bat of ash is a bit wrong to say the least..One should not have to explain himself to anyone but I'll play along on this one...If that says that I don't know what I'm doing, then I'm ready to sign up for the remedial classes. Give me the time and place.."

Who said any of that? No one. Touchy touchy. Why so serious? This was a friendly discussion, that you, for reasons unknown,devolved, and managed, once again, to mention that that worked as a bouncer. Got it.

[country gent]

I think an actual poll on this subject would help provide some interesting numbers and maybe enlighten us more so. As far as hitting the moulds sprue plate and or hinge pin there are many diffrent hammer styles, types, materials along with many types of diffrent blows, and or swings. There are so many variables here to sort out besides just what "wacker" or gloved hand.

[labradigger1]

[QUOTE=montana_charlie;3116009]Gloved hand (the same deerskin gloves I use for driving, loading hay, and fixing fence)
Is it denser than spruce?

Ipe wood is a very dense and heavy wood used in upscale exterior wood work. It will easily outlast any cedar or pressure treated lumber. You can not get a nail gun to shoot through it and must pre drill every hole. Makes a dandy whacker.

[littlejack]

Been using a rawhide mallet for decades. Hurt nary a thing. Works great, no damage at all.
Regards
Jack

[zuke]

A big old screwdriver handle

[Cherokee]

I use a hickory hammer handle when I need to, just tapping the handle bolt...never the mold !

[btroj]

I used a hammer handle until last year when I started using a gloved hand. I still use the hammer handle on the hinge pin when the bullets don't drop free.

I dont know know that there is a right or wrong, just a matter of preference.

[Bullwolf]

I like to open my sprues using a gloved hand. I don't have any moulds bigger than 6 cavity ones however. If I had a few big 10 cavity H&G moulds I might sing another tune.

I've used both the common gray lined leather welding gloves, and the brown leather ones when casting and smelting.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94027&d=1403161588&thumb=1

My hands are somewhat large, so I like try on a few pair of gloves and make a fist while wearing them looking for a pair that fits well. The bigger gloves don't seem blow out seams as much, tend to last me longer, and give a better range of movement. A pair of welding gloves that fit too tightly are neither comfortable or dextrous.

If I really need precision or dexterity for something, I just briefly remove one glove (like to take a picture)

It's a roll of the dice for me with Harbor Freight. Sometimes the product is good, and other times it's low end. I have bought welding gloves from HF in the past, but the last few pairs I've purchased have come from elsewhere.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66639&d=1308462430

The gloves are very convenient for me whenever I have to grab anything hot. Like picking up a warm ingot off the hot plate, grabbing a hot cast iron pot handle, or in just case of an oops.

I have a bad tendency to pick up still hot boolits thinking hmm they cant still be all that warm can they....

If I didn't wear gloves I would have to tap the mold open with something. That seems like it would be harder on the mould, and my casting rhythm. It would throw my cadence off too.

While I don't whack my sprue plates open, if I was going to, I think I would probably use a rawhide mallet rather than a stick. I don't think I would wear out a rawhide mallet very quickly, and it seems gentler to me somehow.

I'd likely chip a stick away to nothing hitting a piece of metal with it over and over, and have to replace it constantly. Maybe I could generate my own flux this way.

Sometimes I'll use a round dowel to gently tap the hinge bolt on a mould when it needs a little assist to help release boolits. (like when casting with HP moulds) I've seen folks use rawhide hammers, rubber hammers, lead, and wood and such for this as well.

Ive been using the same round section of closet dowel for many years now for this, and it shows no signs of appreciable wear yet. I'm more prone to lose it before I wear it out tapping on the hinge bolt at this rate.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114930&d=1409365478

Usually I keep a few restaurant chop-sticks on the casting table for picking spots of lead spatter off the mould & sprue-plate. A used piece of old plywood helps keep cast lead shrapnel off of my wooden picnic casting table.



- Bullwolf

[Gar]

I am using a piece of hard wood turned to 1 1/2" on the lathe with an end cap made of 1 1/2" PVC pipe slipped over the first 2".
Depending on the mold, I also a gloved hand if the mold is one or two cavities and up to temperature. On the four to ten cavity molds, I stick with the mallet.

[TXGunNut]

Been using a soft wood RCBS (I think) mould whacker for awhile, not holding up very well and the splinters add to the mess. Thinking pretty seriously about adding NOE's mallet to my next order.

[BustemAgain]

Nothing I have used compares to a 6oz Garland rawhide mallet. Non marring, non splintering. Seemingly willing to last forever. Made in the USA. I often wonder how I got along prior.

[Rattlesnake Charlie]

Pieces of broken hammer or shovel handles. I cut them up into pieces 10 - 12 inches long, and store them with my casting equipment. If I get to heavy on stock, they burn well in the chiminea.

[tazman]

"When some one states that they use any kind of implement to move the sprue plate, that does not say how much speed or force they use. To assume that they are hitting home runs with a bat of ash is a bit wrong to say the least..One should not have to explain himself to anyone but I'll play along on this one...If that says that I don't know what I'm doing, then I'm ready to sign up for the remedial classes. Give me the time and place.."

Who said any of that? No one. Touchy touchy. Why so serious? This was a friendly discussion, that you, for reasons unknown,devolved, and managed, once again, to mention that that worked as a bouncer. Got it.

In defense of cajun shooter I refer you to post number 14 in this thread where the poster said anyone who used an implement to strike a mold or sprue plate for any reason was inexperienced. I found that statement a bit of a stretch myself.

[RogerDat]

Just a thought but an impact driver can loosen a nut with less "force" than one would apply steadily with a breaker bar. A gentle rap might be less stress on mold than a hard press from a gloved hand. Just speculation and as long as the force is within tolerances of the mold should not matter. Sort of like driving 55 or 60 on tires rated to go 100 mph, neither speed is going to hurt the tires.

Boils down to can't argue with it works, not sure I would tell someone else how the "should" do it without marrying them first. :kidding:

[BethelHntr]

Using a old broken hickory axe handle I cut down, Works good.

[FISH4BUGS]

Casting - the only thing that touches any of my molds is a gloved hand cutting the sprue - Period!
If casters have to hit the mold or the sprue plate for any reason tells me ... Inexperience!
If one has to whack the sprue plate to cut the sprue - casting too cold
Some bullets will not drop from the cavity. When this happens - Tap the handle bolt or Tap on one of the handle arms with the front end of a hickory hammer handle

Jeez...I guess my 40 years of casting doesn't count towards experience. I use either a neoprene rod from Buffalo Arms or one of 3 1lb lead hammers that I bought from this site. I cast mostly with H&G moulds that I accumulated over many years and I wouldn't ever think of mistreating one by pounding on it.
The sprue cutter is designed to be hit. WHAT you hit it with is the key.
You want to try a gloved hand on a 10 cavity H&G? Be my guest.
Inexperienced?

[dikman]

Obviously, after 40 years you still haven't learned anything. :lol: (Sorry, just joking).

I think that particular comment is irrelevant, and could give newcomers the wrong idea. There are no hard and fast rules laid down that say this is how casting must be done. There are guidelines, if you like, and recommendations from people based largely on their own experiences, usually learned the hard way, but that is all. I wouldn't dream of telling someone that they are inexperienced simply because they don't use a gloved hand to cut the sprues.

No different to calling someone inexperienced because they don't use a bottom pour, or don't use a PID.

[BruceB]

"Inexperience"..... yeppers, maybe after I reach fifty years' worth of intensive casting,(next year, in 2016) I MIGHT "see The light".

For the present, however, I'll just say that I have NEVER used "a gloved hand" to cut a sprue, and also that I have NEVER harmed a mould in any way by using an "impact instrument" to cut the sprue.

That last statement covers my "inexperience" with well-over 100 moulds of most descriptions.... I still have around sixty-odd. Only very recently have I ventured into using Lee 6-cavity moulds. and I am not at all impressed with them. Must be my "inexperience".

Not to worry, just poking a little fun. Not really offended at all, at all.

[Doggonekid]

I use a two sided craftsman hammer. Nylon on one side and rubber on the other. I will cast up to 4 different molds at a time. My sprue plate is hard enough that if I used my hand I would probably have a sore hand after a half day of casting. I use my gloves to close the sprue plate back into place and my boolits fall out easy. Every now and then I need the rubber hammer side to tap the hinge bolt a little to have the boolits fall out. I am careful and have never damaged a mold in 40 years. This is what works for me.

[therealhitman]

C'mon JohnBoy, be a man! Knock off that girly "gloved hand" crapola. Once you get really experienced you learn the only right way is to hold the mold in yer teeth, work the ladle with the left hand and use the right ta pull out yer manhood and smack that sprue plate with it like a real boolit caster! Give it time, you will toughen up.

:kidding:

[jmort]

I love comments like "I never used a gloved hand." So what? Why not try it before dismissing it ... out of hand.

[Duckiller]

I don't cast fast. Let the sprue get hard before I cut it by hitting the sprue plate with a replacement hickory handle that I bought for just that purpose many years ago. I have tried moving the sprue plate with a gloved hand. It is easier with my hammer handle and if the boolits don't immediately drop from the mold I have hammer to tap the pivot bolt.

[dikman]

I'm with you mate. Already having the hammer in my hand is efficient and saves time.

Mr. Mortimer, did you just make a pun? (gloved hand....out of hand) :lol:.

[georgerkahn]

I chanced seeing one of these (the H&G hammer: see #49) on Fleabay, bought it on impulse, and it turned out to be one of my BEST ever acquisitions. The only "problem" -- perhaps good one -- is that the soft lead really looks beat up, so much so that I recently bought a 2nd. I retired all my hammer handles...
BEST!
georgerkahn

[youngmman]

I GENTLY tap the sprue plate with a rawhide leather mallet. Last almost forever. Perfect weight and gets the job done.

If you preheat your molds on a hotplate to almost casting temp (as recommended by many on here) B4 starting, your sprues will cut perfectly with just a nudge. AND........your boolits will drop perfectly from the 1st one! No more throw-backs from cold mold wrinkes/poor fills.

Same here, I've never used anything else and seldom, if ever, requires more than a tap.

[jmort]

"Mr. Mortimer, did you just make a pun? (gloved hand....out of hand)"

Tried to. People get so indignant and wound up over stuff that is really not important, one way or the other.

[detox]

My small plastic dead blow hammer melted very easily and cracked/shattered easily in the winter. So I purchased a Garland #8 weighted leather mallet to replace it. No more melting or cracking.

http://www.garlandmfg.com/mallets/rawhide.html

[Springfield]

My LEE 6 cavs I of course use the supplied sprue handle. With most of my Mihec, NOE, HM2, Accurate aluminum moulds I use my gloved hand to open the sprue and them a rawhide hammer to tap the handle screws to release the bullets, if necessary. I feel it gives me a better feel for how cool the lead is, unlike the hammer. And it probably is a bit faster because if the lead is harder then you probably waited longer than necessary. What no one has mentioned is, with softer pistol bullets like I mostly do the gloved hand is fine. If you are using a much harder alloy the hammer might be better.

[detox]

I use a welding glove to open sprue plate. Linotype is harder to open than softer alloys, but not too difficult.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

I beat my molds like a red-headed step child.

[dikman]

What have you got against red-headed people? :kidding:

[Doggonekid]

I think what he meant to say was a red headed step child is hard to beat. I wish I had one. I would teach him after casting 800 to 900 boolits and using a glove his hand would be too tired to hold his beer.