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7s&8s
02-24-2008, 10:32 PM
I went down this path as a result of a couple European Mausers (7mm’s and 8mm’s) whose bores run larger than what usually drops out of the molds.

A mold purchased on eBay (advertised in “very good” condition) arrived with fairly-well rusted cavities, and was able to re-negotiate price to $15 delivered. So, with not much too loose, I cast a couple bullets, chucked them in the old man’s lathe, drilled and tapped them so they could be used as laps.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh102/thol1_photo/0802_mold_lapping_04a.jpg

Then, I chucked the tap in the rechargeable drill, added a lap (drilled and tapped bullet), a smear of lapping compound and drop of oil… turn slowly in the closed mold. After a minute or two, things seemed to loosen up a bit, so cleaned up the mold and lap and recharged with lapping compound. Repeated this process a couple of times per grit.

First with 220 grit; then 320 and finished with 600 grit; using a new bullet for each grit. I used denatured alcohol for clean up between grit changes and final clean up.

A couple of lessons learned:

Go slowly and check frequently. After the second charge of 220 grit, clean-up and cast a couple to check progress. My first subject ended up .003 larger vs. the .002 desired.
Shave the base of the bullets used for the 220 and 320 grits so that the lapping does not enlarge the mold diameter at the base for gas-check seating (unless gas-checks fit loosely). The first pass resulted in oversize base with gas checks that have to be forced on.
When taking the mold back to the casting bench, I find that there is a pretty fair “break-in” period, that I suspect may be residual oil from the lapping process. The next candidate will receive the boiling water bath to clean the oil out.


This process achieved the .002-.003” increase in diameter as desired, and seem to be making some good progress in bringing group size down a bit on the first candidate RCBS 7mm-168 gr that now drops at .288-9. As a result of the first test, the second (RCBS 8mm -170 gr) has been lapped and cast .325-6, but not yet loaded...

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh102/thol1_photo/0802_mold_lapping_01a.jpg

IcerUSA
02-24-2008, 11:31 PM
You did good , been doing that and made a sizer die for my 35 Rem Marlin this weekend , only one mould didn't come upto snuff yet , next weekend tho . :)

Keith

Kraschenbirn
02-25-2008, 12:31 AM
Good job!! Did about the same thing to open up a Lee 185-grainer to .315 for my Longbranch Mk4#1. For the aluminum blocks, I started with 400 and finished with toothpaste.

Bill

NSP64
02-25-2008, 07:11 PM
I guess the longitudinal cuts are to hold the lap compound? as they go through only the driving bands.

7s&8s
02-25-2008, 09:01 PM
I guess the longitudinal cuts are to hold the lap compound? as they go through only the driving bands.

Newsmokepole,

They seem to work for that, but result from chucking in the lathe to drill and tap...

Best Regards,

Tom

NSP64
02-26-2008, 10:56 PM
Good. Was wondering how to get those in there.:drinks:I'll chuck some up and try it.

DanM
02-27-2008, 03:18 PM
Good thread here and good pictures. I am wondering how critical is it to perfectly center the hole? What is the best method for center drilling the boolit if you don't have a lathe, ect. to find the center for you.

grumpy one
02-27-2008, 04:49 PM
Good thread here and good pictures. I am wondering how critical is it to perfectly center the hole? What is the best method for center drilling the boolit if you don't have a lathe, ect. to find the center for you.

Dan, you need to center the hole pretty well, because if you don't the mould will have to shake around as the lap rotates. Inertia effects will then cause you to lap in distortions to the shape. Having said that, I usually end up with noticable mould shake, and haven't found any ill effects. So, you need it pretty well centered but it doesn't seem to have to be perfect.

You can use the "lathe system" of self-locating the center of the bullet just by chucking the bullet instead of the drill bit. Put the drill bit in the drill vice, mounted vertically. Carefully drill into the bit of the bullet that isn't moving from side to side - that's the center.