Lube suggestions For star

[Plate plinker]

I'm getting ready to lube with a star sizer and would like suggestions for 45acp .40 SW and 9mm.

There re seems to be an abundant variety of lube recipe here and would appreciate any good advice.

[Dale53]

I made my own lube for years. It did a fine job (I made both smokeless and black powder lube). Then, I discovered Lars' White Label Lube. Lars' lube is so reasonably priced that there is NO reason for me to make my own lube. My preference is Carnauba Red. It requires a heater to apply with the Star luber (or any other luber such as Lyman and RCBS). I prefer it because it has a higher melting point and often my loaded rounds are in the back of my car when it is really hot out. I have NEVER had a problem with this after using Carnauba Red. I HAVE had failures with ammo loaded with bullets lubed with NRA 50/50 when exposed to high heat.

Accuracy with Carnauba Red has been excellent with both light target loads and heavy magnum hunting loads.

Lars has several different varieties of lube (some that do NOT require a heater) so there is virtually something for everyone. He is a vendor sponsor of this web site. I have no financial interest in Lars' lubes, just a happy user:

http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/

Regarding a Star heater. I use the Lyman heater that is drilled and tapped for Star, RCBS, and Lyman lube/sizers. I consider it very important to have rheostat control of the heat (the Lyman heater does not have a heat regulator - it's either on or off). I happened to have a Dremel speed control rheostat and that is what I use. However, the wattage is low enough on the heater that you can use a simple light dimmer switch to control the heat perfectly. Just buy a plastic electrical box with an outlet and make up your own rheostat (a few bucks will do it). I believe there is a sticky on here that will tell you how. Another option is to use a speed regulator from Harbor Freight intended for a router:

http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

I wouldn't be without a speed control for my lube heater. You want the heat to be the lowest that will give you complete fill out with minimal pressure on the regulator screw of the Star. As I remember, the heat is only about 120 degrees to give you perfect fill out of the lube grooves.

FWIW
Dale53

[dragon813gt]

Anything from White Label Lubes. They will all work for your application. I've settled on 2500+ and Carnauba Red. BAC and 50/50 will work very well w/ those cartridges but they're to soft for my liking.

[Plate plinker]

Great reply Dale I'll look into all your advice and fortunately I have a dimmer switch handy along with all the necessary accoutrements. Look out here I come with both feet a churnin!

[runfiverun]

Dale as usual spot on.

something like B.A.C. from Lars is a good lube too.
I used to make mine from his products, using 2 sticks of 50-50, and one of carnuba red, and then add in a rounded tsp of lanolin.
this added a little tackiness and flexibility to the lube.
it done well in temps down to about 20-f and up to near 100-f in pistols and rifles.

[RG1911]

I'm not sure how others gather the boolits popping out of a Star, but I let them drop into a box. For years I used Rooster Red until the source ran out.

Based on numerous recommendations, I then tried several White Label lubes with my H&G #68 .45 SWCs.

Carnauba Red: Very soft and sticky and the boolits pretty much stuck together and the lube pulled out of the grooves. Unfortunately, I did 500+ before I realized I had a sticky mess on my hands. I'll have to remove the lube and run the boolits through again. Sigh.

Commercial 160: A little better, but still too sticky for my sizing/lubing method.

Commercial 190: Based on a small test sizing and lubing only 150, this one looks like a winner. It's a little softer than the Rooster Red, but not sticky enough to cause problems dropping into the box. I do have to have my Midway heater cranked all the way up. According to the thermometer, the base of the Star is at 125 degrees F.

As always, YMMV.

Richard

[bruce381]

I run carnuba red at 110 at the base and it works very well slightly sticky as the boolits drop in the box.

[georgerkahn]

I envy those who make their own lubs, while I have relied upon commercial products. The two which seem most productive: for .38, 10mm, and .45acp I use Lyman Orange Magic; for most rifle calibers I use the stuff purveyed by Magma (Star) -- my color of choice being blue.
BEST!
georgerkahn

[Dale53]

Thanks for the kind words, folks!

Back on topic. I prefer to put my bullets in boxes when sizing and take the time to do it "lined up like little soldiers". It takes some longer but I NEVER have lube sticking together, etc. I don't like the accuracy results of very hard lubes.

Here's what I am talking about:
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/BulletBoxes-3722.jpg (http://s269.photobucket.com/user/Dale53/media/BulletBoxes-3722.jpg.html)

I find those boxes on sale at the Dollar Stores (or where ever) for very favorable prices and they protect the bullets from dust and vermin (sometimes stored in my garage but mostly in a controlled temperature in my basement shop).

Dale53

[georgerkahn]

I like your plastic box method, Dale53, and do pretty much the same. However, I use the blue square boxes purveyed by Midway for quite a bit more -- http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2124102446/utility-box-ub-36-plastic-blue?cm_vc=sugv2124102446 -- the UB36 plastic box at $2.69 each. I had been using former-margarine, and similar containers but got fed up with them cracking, bending, and inability to stack very well. Hence, I bit the bullet and bought a bunch of these... However, yours look pretty sturdy, and I'll be looking for similar to yours.
BEST!
georgerkahn