crimping

[trixter]

If you open the case mouth up to allow a lead boolit to be inserted, then seat it, wouldn't you want to taper crimp back to the right size?

[jcren]

Yes, in non revolver loads a taper is used to close thee flare, Lee factory crimp dies are perfect for bottle neck loads. Revolers roll crimp as usual.

[gray wolf]

Post is a tad short on info.

[Char-Gar]

If you open the case mouth up to allow a lead boolit to be inserted, then seat it, wouldn't you want to taper crimp back to the right size?

Yes. Taper Crimp autopistol rounds. Roll crimp revolver rounds and rifle rounds to be used in a tubular magazine. All other rifle rounds do not crimp.

[Char-Gar]

Post is a tad short on info.

As are 99% of those questions asked on this forum. I guess they think this is a forum for mind reading cast bullet folks.

[45 2.1]

Yes. Taper Crimp autopistol rounds. Roll crimp revolver rounds and rifle rounds to be used in a tubular magazine.

Not really any problems with this.................


All other rifle rounds do not crimp.

but there are several reasons to crimp rifle rounds.................. to provide resistance to achieve proper powder burn with lighter boolits, to prevent the boolit seating back in the case for heavy recoiling or semi-auto firearms, etc.

[tazman]

I always know which gun I am casting for and what cartridge I am referring to. Don't you when you post?

[trixter]

I just wanted to clear that up. I am looking at loading some 'Bator' boolits in 223, and an trying to get the process straight in my mind before ordering something I might not need. I am going to have to open up the neck to get the boolit started and it would seem proper to get it back to the correct neck size before trying to shoot it.

Thanks

[jcren]

Lee factory crimp all the way. Set it light enough to just close the bell for a bolt gun, or lock them down for magazine guns.

[blackthorn]

Quote "I always know which gun I am casting for and what cartridge I am referring to. Don't you when you post? "

Yes----but does everybody else??

[Side by Side]

When using cast bullets I crimp with a crimp die only

[.22-10-45]

And sometimes that flair can be left..as in single shot rifles..to better center ctg. in chamber for inhanced accuracyusing fixed ammo, and to prevent gas from leaking past and crumpling case neck when breech-seating.

[Boyscout]

I worked up a load for my 35 Remington using a shortened case. I couldn't shoot a decent group because the Lee FCD could not be adjusted to crimp the case shortened to 1.80". I ordered a custom FCD die and gave the case a moderate crimp. My groups tightened up to where I felt comfortable hunting with them. In this case, the crimp was probably needed to compensate for the loss of neck tension from shortening it. Loading 3 sets with varying amounts of crimp may be something I try just to check out my theory.

[tazman]

And sometimes that flair can be left..as in single shot rifles..to better center ctg. in chamber for inhanced accuracyusing fixed ammo, and to prevent gas from leaking past and crumpling case neck when breech-seating.

I never heard of that technique before but it makes sense.

[big bore 99]

I like to crimp even a single shot 45-70. Much cleaner burns. Don't know if you'd actually call it a crimp though. After belling the case mouths and seating the boolit, I use a full length size die with the primer pin out. I just go far enough to get rid of the belling and snug things up. Seems to work good for me.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

As outlined above in several posts there are very good reasons for crimping. Keep in mind however that crimping cold works the brass and shortens its life....so it is a necessary evil. Like a few other things in life. Use the minimal amount to get the job done (well). LLS

[ballistim]

I like to crimp even a single shot 45-70. Much cleaner burns. Don't know if you'd actually call it a crimp though. After belling the case mouths and seating the boolit, I use a full length size die with the primer pin out. I just go far enough to get rid of the belling and snug things up. Seems to work good for me.

I've noticed better accuracy crimping loads that I've used previously without crimping, and have really noticed an improvement with ball powders by crimping & using magnum primers. Crimping used to be something I only considered for recoil and bullets pulling loose, but now I believe a consistent crimp contributes to better ignition & improved accuracy in many of my loads. Practice loads I've made for my M1 Garands & 1903A3 using resized pull-down 147gr, FMJ & surplus WC-846 ball powder really improved after using a Lee FCD & actually produced better accuracy than the HXP ammo I've used for a long time(although I take the time to sort the bullets by weight). Much cleaner burns as stated, cleaner cases & barrel indicates better ignition IMO.

[cajun shooter]

trixter, You do need to include more info especially when you are speaking of the .223 round as it is made in single shots, auto's like the black rifles and even single shot pistols, plus the old bolt action. All of these require a different type of crimp. You should by all means do any crimping as your last and final step. Don't make the mistake of seating and crimping at the same time if you looking for accuracy. Good Luck David

[RobS]

I shoot only cast boolits so with that I seat and then crimp in two different stages with all my rounds (auto, revolver, lever action rifle and bolt action rifle). I use taper crimps for handgun autos, roll crimp for Revolver/Lever action combos and then Lee collet FCD's for my bolt action rifle reloading.

[MT Chambers]

I never crimp unless I have to for hard kicking revolvers and leverguns, preferring to concentrate on proper case neck tension, for single shots I leave the flare just like someone else mentioned in fact when chambering rounds in my single shots I can feel the chamber acting on the flared case mouth, talk about a well centered round in the chamber.