Three44s
01-16-2015, 12:04 PM
A friend and member of this forum found a 25727 HP Lyman mold (single cavity) for me that I am looking over.
I have some number of quarter bores to try this out on....... the most notable are a .25-35 Win 94, a Remington 14 in .25 Rem. and Savage bolt gun barrels in .250 Savage and .257 Roberts.
I also have some .25-06's and a .257 STW barrel but I don't think they are going to be very practical.
I notice the HP pin is very long ........ long enough to nearly go to the base.
This mold is a non gas check design and looks like it was set up as a bevel base.
I am a little concerned about the bevel base portion ......... as the mold edges at the junction of the blocks are eroded or chipped away slightly. The rest of the mold cavity is pristine. The HP pin looks pretty straight. And the blocks close pretty well.
The top of the mold shows that the sprue is riding more on the corners of the block and less on the center (where the base of the boolit forms).
I believe that the HP pin should be shimmed out some (shorten the HP cavity) or better still make or have made a new shorter pin.
There is no index provision to keep the pin in place while you pour ......... you have to hold it in or rest it on something to keep it from falling out.
As I assess this ......... it seems like it might be a good project for Erick (the mold rebuilder)?
Best regards
Three 44s
I have some number of quarter bores to try this out on....... the most notable are a .25-35 Win 94, a Remington 14 in .25 Rem. and Savage bolt gun barrels in .250 Savage and .257 Roberts.
I also have some .25-06's and a .257 STW barrel but I don't think they are going to be very practical.
I notice the HP pin is very long ........ long enough to nearly go to the base.
This mold is a non gas check design and looks like it was set up as a bevel base.
I am a little concerned about the bevel base portion ......... as the mold edges at the junction of the blocks are eroded or chipped away slightly. The rest of the mold cavity is pristine. The HP pin looks pretty straight. And the blocks close pretty well.
The top of the mold shows that the sprue is riding more on the corners of the block and less on the center (where the base of the boolit forms).
I believe that the HP pin should be shimmed out some (shorten the HP cavity) or better still make or have made a new shorter pin.
There is no index provision to keep the pin in place while you pour ......... you have to hold it in or rest it on something to keep it from falling out.
As I assess this ......... it seems like it might be a good project for Erick (the mold rebuilder)?
Best regards
Three 44s