Purple/blue on top of melt

[bgreed]

I know I have seen this before but cannot find it using the search. I have purple/blue floating on top of my melt that wasn't there when I fluxed it the first time. I am using COWW with about 4% pewter added. The bullets I'm getting look great just wondering about the color. Using an NOE 453 210gr brass mold with hollow point pins.

[osteodoc08]

Oxides. Reduce with wax and turn down the heat. Watch your temp when you melt and keep it 675-725.

oh yeah. Reduce your pewter. No need for any more than 2%. You're just throwing your money away unless looking for a specific alloy with 4+% tin.

[prs]

I get that with nearly pure lead alloy. Kinda pretty. I add antimony and tin in small equal amounts.

prs

[runfiverun]

if it's a metallic blue on top of the alloy you got it too hot.
that metallic blue and gold is super common from too hot ww alloy.
I'd also for sure reduce the amount of tin in the alloy, you are exceeding the antimony and have free tin nodules on the surface of those shiny boolits.

[Bazoo]

What, if any, damage will be done to the lead by getting it too hot?

[osteodoc08]

Other than having the WW oxidized from the heat and losing anitmony and tin due to oxidization, nothing. You can let it cool, remelt with wax and stir stir stir and all will be good. The wax reduces the tin and anitmony back into the melt. I LOVE beeswax. Randrat is a good source of beeswax.

[runfiverun]

actually it's the oxygen free barrier on top of the alloy that returns the oxides back into the alloy.
light that wax on fire.

[Cmm_3940]

actually it's the oxygen free barrier on top of the alloy that returns the oxides back into the alloy.
light that wax on fire.


:?:I thought the oxygen-free barrier was what kept Sn and Sb in the alloy, by preventing oxidation, and the carbon in wax/wood chips was what reduced the oxides back into the alloy?

in any case, turn down the heat.

[Echo]

Plus One for All The Above...