Crown on a rifled Remington 1100 barrel?

[Faret]

The crown should not restrict the slug with wad going threw right? I might just have to chuck this one up in a lathe to put a taper on it. It looks like they cut the rifling and faced off the end and it pushed material back into the lands. Advise before I start cutting? Thanks in advance!

[ASSASSIN]

You are correct! The crown should NOT restrict the slug as it passes through...

A very light taper or bevel cut to relieve that slight raised area at the crown is a good idea....

A

[country gent]

if possible use pin gages to check and see how tightit is and how far back this goes it may not be "pushed material but a stress induced warp from installing front sight or other work also. It could also be from a light hit on the muzzle, shot gun barrels are thin. Even after re cutting use a brass ball ( around 1" probably for a 12 gauge) and fine lapping compound to final finish the crown, this will remove all burrs and questionable areas from machining. A little work like this goes a long ways. Color fresh cut with marker so you can tell where your cutting and how deep you are.

[Faret]

Thanks guys. This is a cantilever barrel so no iron sights. The area is right at the last part of the barrel. I have a tapered air grinder stone that I might run slow in a drill to make the crown better.

[country gent]

The grinder stone will can cut off of center, a ball and lapping compound will follow center of bore much better. And will also leave a better surface finish.

[jsizemore]

Don't bubba that barrel with the air grinder. You should be able to find a round or oval brass drawer pull for cheap with some lapping compound run slow in your drill to knock down the high spots and burrs. No need to rush. Take your time.